1957 Evinrude Big Twin 35hp HELP

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Viewing 10 posts - 11 through 20 (of 26 total)

  • danblue


    Replies: 58
    Topics: 7
    #19885

    You know that little "port" on the side of the lower unit housing, (access by two screws, the screws hold that plate in place) where you access those bolts to release the lower unit? Is this cavity supposed to have water in it? I opened it up and there was grease and water in there…I was going to try to drop the lower unit, but I do not have a ratchet set to remove those two bolts that hold onto the rods that are hanging down…

    Once I get the lower unit out, do I need to pull that big bar out that reaches to the engine? Unfortunately, I’m not lucky enough to have the time it will take to learn how to do this stuff the right way…I wish things were different. Could someone advise me on where I could crate this up to ship for someone to service for me? Someone trustworthy and qualified that loves these motors? Perhaps someone in New Jersey, New York, Maryland, etc…whatever it might take please.

    Thanks a million for your help and advice…


    frankr

    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
    Replies: 6715
    Topics: 51
    #19889

    Yes, there should be water in there. And oily. and dirty. And yes the "big bar" comes down with it.

    I guess we all have our favorite ways of doing things. Personally, I’d remove the spark plugs and see if there is any movement at all in the flywheel & pistons. Even a tiny bit. And go from there, depending the result.


    beerman57


    Replies: 596
    Topics: 126
    #19890

    Just remove the bottom bolt inside that little port. Try it with needle nose pliers just for grins, it might not be super tight.


    fleetwin

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 4737
    Topics: 46
    #19891

    OK, well just try to move the flywheel by hand without removing the recoil starter (with plug wires removed). Can you move it at all? Does it rock slightly back and forth?
    I would agree the next step should be to remove the gearcase, but I think you should call the repair shop first. I don’t want you to mess around with it too much giving them an excuse not to cover a warranty repair.


    frankr

    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
    Replies: 6715
    Topics: 51
    #19894

    You have a PM.


    danblue


    Replies: 58
    Topics: 7
    #19972

    Guys,

    I just started a new topic with the below update…sorry for the redundancy, and thanks for your advice!

    Well, I was able to remove the lower unit, and the flywheel is still stuck.I removed the pull starter top thing, and the flywheel is completely exposed as members recommended in an earlier post. I did not try to remove that big bolt on the very to center of the flywheel though…just so everyone is aware.

    I took a big wad of duck tape and created a cushion, then I started to forcefully tap a flathead screwdriver with a hammer in between the teeth of the flywheel making the flywheel rotate counterclockwise a pretty good amount. When I first looked into the engine port where the spark plugs are located, I noticed the piston face (is this correct) was butt up against the the top hole opening…the bottom hole opening was just an open black hole and I couldn’t see anything…

    After some careful hammering on the flywheel, I noticed some movement of the piston in the top hole..(the piston face was further inside the engine after the hammering, which means things are moving and not frozen in the powerhead)…I would assume this is reasonably good news…

    Although I can now wiggle the flywheel counterclockwise and clockwise maybe 1/2 an inch, it’s still stuck and won’t budge by hand.

    Any help is much appreciated!


    vintin


    Replies: 580
    Topics: 19
    #20006

    Your motor likely has some serious internal problems.

    You should be able to easily turn the flywheel by hand.


    garry-in-michigan

    Lifetime Member
    Replies: 3583
    Topics: 31
    #20024

    I hate to say this, but the early production run 35s had problems with the needle bearings on the wrist pin wearing through the retainer at an idle and dropping out into the powerhead. 5000 motors had the powerhead replaced under warrentee. If you didn’t do much idling they would last a long time. A couple low hour Big Twins were five years old when they went bad. If it was from that first production run, they got a new powerhead. Later 40 horse models got roller bearings on the wristpin.


    danblue


    Replies: 58
    Topics: 7
    #20030

    Thank you for the qualified details Garry. I’ve also learned that if the lower unit rods weren’t adjusted just right in these Bog Twins, the gears would slip, and would act up etc…I just had my lower rebuilt this season, and it has been acting up, slipping out of gear, etc. so I’m done with it..these Evinrudes were prone to issues with the gears slipping I’ve heard.

    Well, at least I’m learning that if I just go ahead and get a Johnson Seahorse, I’ll actually be able to enjoy an antique outboard without to many issues…My family and friends are sick of boating with me because of all the issues I’ve had with this motor, and it’s been very discouraging.

    I’ll see if I can find a really nice Seahorse 35hp or 40hp from the mid to late 50s…If anyone is selling one, please let me know!

    Thanks everyone!

    Danny


    danblue


    Replies: 58
    Topics: 7
    #20055

    Here’s a question: This motor is almost 60 years old, and the previous owner had it completely rebuilt and restored around 2009, so how on earth did this motor make it this far in life with the original (or even replaced) needle bearings, and why would anyone put needle bearings back into this powerhead knowing they were faulty??

    If the motor happened to be one of the fortunate warrentee rebuilds from the factory years ago, would the factory just have reinstalled these stupid needle bearings at that time? Would the restoration in 2009 have included new needle bearings that were known to be faulty??? This makes no sense. Did Evinrude install roller bearings after this epic failure with the needle bearings on these 1957 motors when the powerhead failed?

    Does a 1956-1957 Johnson 35hp Seahorse have the exact same powerhead which includes these faulty needle bearings, or is the Johnson powerhead from this era a different setup?

    Thanks,

Viewing 10 posts - 11 through 20 (of 26 total)
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