Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1957 johnson 18hp fuel mixture
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July 20, 2022 at 5:58 am #263258
Like Don says: Do an open-gap, cranking spark test, and it should jump a good 1/4″. Then try a small amount of fuel oil mix in the cylinders, through the plug holes. Pull a number of times,as this could actually FLOOD the engine for a minute, first. If it fires off briefly and quits, then the fuel system itself would be my next primary focus. If it doesn’t fire at all, you have other problems than fuel. Compression must be high enough, like they both said. These engines were sometimes known to blow head gaskets. And finally, since you replaced the plug wires, make sure they’re going to the correct cylinders. The forward-most coil is the top cylinder.
Long live American manufacturing!
- This reply was modified 2 years, 4 months ago by billw.
July 20, 2022 at 5:00 pm #263305I run my 53 qd14 54 fastwin and 58 fastwin and all my other motors at 32:1 and have been for a long time nothing has gone wrong . the oil now is way better than it was way back then. as long as you get a synthetic blend oil it should be fine. no sense in wasting oil, and money.
July 20, 2022 at 5:10 pm #263306I run my 53 qd14 54 fastwin and 58 fastwin and all my other motors at 32:1 and have been for a long time nothing has gone wrong . the oil now is way better than it was way back then. as long as you get a synthetic blend oil it should be fine. no sense in wasting oil, and money.
You say you’ve run your motors a long time but heck, you haven’t even been ALIVE a long time! (-:
Long live American manufacturing!
July 20, 2022 at 5:15 pm #263307I may getting things mixed up here. There are two discussions going on, one is about a fastwin, the other about an AD 7.5hp. My last comments refer to the AD 7.5hp.
July 20, 2022 at 5:20 pm #263308Most of us joined this club with the intention of preserving
old outboard motors.
Why skimp on the oil? It doesn’t cost that much more to
fallow the factory specs.
As far as “The oil is better” line, It’s cleaner but it’s still oil!
I use synthetic oil because it’s better for the environment.
But I still use factory specs.
Member of the MOB chapter.
I live in Northwest IndianaJuly 26, 2022 at 4:22 pm #263648Fleetwin, thanks for all the ideas. I’m interested in anything that would allow air to leak into the crankcase enough to prevent fuel/air mixture being drawn from the carb thru the reeds. The carb is not the problem, nor is the ignition (good spark from new coils/points/condensers on both cylinders, nor is compression (65-70 psi on both also).
The damage to the seal at the top of the driveshaft you describe is interesting. It would appear from the parts diagrams that there are no crankshaft seals as such; is this right? Does the seal you mentioned serve as a crank seal? I’m wondering how it could be intended to keep water out of the gearcase, since it’s about a foot above the waterline…? So I guess I’m going to pull the powerhead and see what I see. The shock absorber in the driveshaft is also something I’ve never seen, so this is new territory for me too. Thanks again, and I’ll let you know what I find for sure.
Bob / Duralark
1954 Johnson 5-1/2
1956 Lark 30hp
1958 Lark 35hp
July 26, 2022 at 4:34 pm #263649The carbon seal at the top of the driveshaft (AD) seals the crankshaft bearing AND the splines. No, there is no top crankshaft seal on an AD. They rely on bearing fit to provide a seal. It would have to be mighty sloppy worn out to prevent drawing fuel/air from the carb.
July 26, 2022 at 6:32 pm #263664Fleetwin, thanks for all the ideas. I’m interested in anything that would allow air to leak into the crankcase enough to prevent fuel/air mixture being drawn from the carb thru the reeds. The carb is not the problem, nor is the ignition (good spark from new coils/points/condensers on both cylinders, nor is compression (65-70 psi on both also).
The damage to the seal at the top of the driveshaft you describe is interesting. It would appear from the parts diagrams that there are no crankshaft seals as such; is this right? Does the seal you mentioned serve as a crank seal? I’m wondering how it could be intended to keep water out of the gearcase, since it’s about a foot above the waterline…? So I guess I’m going to pull the powerhead and see what I see. The shock absorber in the driveshaft is also something I’ve never seen, so this is new territory for me too. Thanks again, and I’ll let you know what I find for sure.
Bob / Duralark
1954 Johnson 5-1/2
1956 Lark 30hp
1958 Lark 35hp
Don’t mean to confuse… I wouldn’t waste too much time on the upper slinger or pull the powerhead to check the lower seal components. I really don’t think those items are making the engine hard to start. Again, there is no actual upper seal on this engine. If there was a problem, you would see oil all inside the ignition plate, and you said you have peeked inside.
I would really stick to simple things here. Prime the cylinders with fuel/oil mix, then try to start cold and see what happens. You also mention, perhaps I am mistaken, that the engine runs OK once started and starts OK warm, is this correct? An engine with a crankcase sealing issue is not going to run real well, especially at lower speeds.
Like I said, try priming the cylinders with fuel/oil mix, does it seem to start cold OK when this is done?
If so, then squirt some fuel/oil mix into the carb throat past the venturi and try starting it cold this way, does it start OK doing this?
If so, I would suspect you have a choke issue, or perhaps you are not priming it up enough to fill the carb bowl.
Again, be sure you tank has fresh/uncontaminated 16:1 fuel mix. Perhaps your primer button isn’t working, so you are really not filling the carb bowl. Just cuz there is fuel in the filter glass bowl doesn’t mean there is fuel in the carb bowl.
And again, remember, these engines oftentimes start cold better when the throttle is advanced beyond the start position, especially if the throttle pick up is not set correctly.July 27, 2022 at 5:44 am #263692Listen to Fleetwin and try what he says. He is dead-to-nuts on the mark for troubleshooting your reported condition.
Long live American manufacturing!
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