Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1958 Evinrude 35 HP Flooding
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rvdriver.
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July 3, 2018 at 11:54 am #10452
I have a 1958 Evinrude 35 hp Big Twin on our newly built wood boat. I have made some adjustments with the mixtures and also had to repair the fuel filter. She was running great for about a week.
Now. when I run it at full throttle and then pull back to slow and then idle, it stalls. Fuel is all around the engine in the water and I have to remove the fuel line from the engine to get it restarted. It just started doing this about a week or so ago.
What could be causing the issue to occur and what are some possible fixes?
I love the engine and works perfectly on our 14 foot Chris Craft inspired constructed wood boat.
Thanks for all the great help and support!
Best Regards,
Steven
Lake Granbury, TexasIMG_3379.JPG
July 3, 2018 at 12:52 pm #78943Well, that is a beautiful rig, and I love the 58 Bigtwin. It is possible that the stalling is being caused by something else and the spilled fuel is just a result of the engine sneezing/sputtering when it stalls out…
Is this the only issue with the engine, does it idle OK, run at high speeds OK? How fast are you retarding the throttle? Will the engine keep running if you retard the throttle very slowly? Are you running the engine with the big air box in place, or is it removed?
There is also a possibility that the vacuum cut out switch is malfunctioning causing the engine to stall because it is running on one cylinder….
Is this engine new to you, or did you do some recent service work to it? You mention making some mixture adjustments, what do you mean by "repairing the fuel filter"? Is the engine still using it’s original pressure tank set up, or has someone converted it to a single line tank with a fuel pump?
If the engine is actually flooding over, then it is time to pull the carb apart, and install a new OEM carb kit that will include a new float and float valve….July 3, 2018 at 2:28 pm #78950With engine cold,remove cover and look at carb while someone starts your motor.If gas is dripping out of front of carb,the needle valve is either hung up or worn or a bad needle seat.When motor is at full throttle it is burning enough gas to run ok but at lower speeds it is flooding because it can’t keep up with the gas flowing into the carb because the needle won’t seat right.
If gas isn’t dripping out of carb,is it dripping out of front of speed needles or are needles loose?Could also be part of your problemJuly 3, 2018 at 7:33 pm #78964I need to pull the cowling off and run the engine to check for fuel leaks. I need to get out early in the morning as the Texas heat starts early this time of year. It usually idles just fine and has been running below full power with the throttle wide open. The fuel filter has the screw on ‘washer" that tightens the filer up in the fuel bowl. It had vibrated off and we think creating a disruption in the fuel flow. That "fixed" the full power running until the flooding started about a week later.
The flooding of the carb sounds right to me, its just a matter of why.
Yes, It still has the original big air box and the pressurized fuel tank.
I may need to also be more gentle on reducing the power down to an idle……unlike our Sea Ray with the Merc I/O.
Any other thoughts are much appreciated.
Reardon Boat works builds and restores wood boat. Mr. Reardon is a good friend and lives on the street over from me on Lake Granbury.
We built the boat in his home workshop in about 12 months. He still builds a few boats and canoes. He is an amazing craftsman. We have over 3,000 brass machine screws holding the white oak ribs to mahogany planks with a Mahogany deck.Thanks,
Steven
July 3, 2018 at 8:23 pm #78967Going through the carb completely is a must unless you know it was done by a competent person relatively recently. The float needs to actually float, though if it didn’t, you would almost certainly be unable to start the motor. But, make sure it is parallel to the carb body upon reinstallation. Make sure your needles are serviceable and are not wandering (packing/packing nuts would be the fix there). Replace the valve/seat unless you are crrtain they’re serviceable.
Not sure if the fuel save option could be a culprit here or not. Make sure it is set properly as it is part of the relationship between spark advance and fuel (throttle).The ’58 model is a bit like a unicorn in my experience. While the Johnson version is very plentiful, I have only seen a handful of the Evinrudes. It’s a beauty! Is it an e-start model?
ScottJuly 3, 2018 at 9:24 pm #78969OK, well let us know what you find when you have a closer look…
July 3, 2018 at 9:33 pm #78970yes, its an electric start. The guy I bought it from is a good friend of a friend. The guy went through the engine and has many new parts. I’m not certain the carb was overhauled. I’ll see what I can find out.
Where’s the best source for a carb rebuild kit?
July 4, 2018 at 1:58 pm #79016If the carb float is the original part made of cork, if you have used fuel with ethanol in it (even only 10%) it has likely wrecked the protective coating on the cork and the cork then soaked up gas and sank. Like has already been mentioned, a factory carb kit includes a new ethanol-resistant float. Aftermarket kits do not have a float.
You may also have a small piece of dirt caught in the float needle and seat, keeping it from closing when not much fuel is needed at an idle.
DaveJuly 4, 2018 at 3:01 pm #79019Where’s the best place to buy a factory carb kit?
Thanks,
Steven
July 4, 2018 at 3:09 pm #79020Well, you can order them online at marineengine.com
Or, perhaps a local Evinrude dealer might have it in stock…
I think the carb kit part number is: 439074, hopefully someone will chime in if I am incorrect…
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