Home Forum Ask A Member 1958 Johnson 50 hp

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  • #258072
    tinkerman
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      US Member

      I’ll try to keep brief. End of last season when I got my boat off the trailer in water it would start then die start then die. I had made the mistake of checking compression without grounding a plug (removed them all at once) so I thought sometime over the winter I’ll buy a coil and rebuild the fuel pump. I replaced the coil and rebuilt the fuel pump and when I put the fuel pump back together I put both springs on the back side of the diaphragm. It started quick but I was having to pump ball to keep running. I then looked at diagram and saw the long spring goes on backside and short spring on front side. After I changed it , it’s twice as hard to start (seems flooded) when it does start I STILL have to pump the ball to keep it running. ALL NEW HOSES. What am I doing wrong!!??? Any help is appreciated

      It's a jungle out there.

      #258073
      frankr
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        US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

        Don’t know what you did wrong with the fuel pump, but check the distributor rotor for arcing through to the shaft.

        #258084
        labrador-guy
        Participant

          US Member

          Tinkerman are your check valves in the fuel pump in correctly?   They go opposite directions and sometimes they stick open and don’t work correctly.

          dale

          #258178
          tinkerman
          Participant

            US Member

            I’ll check the check valves. Does anyone have a good diagram how it all goes back together? I was using a parts list view. On top of that I took it apart then didn’t get around to rebuilding it till a couple months later(knew better)

            It's a jungle out there.

            #258401
            tinkerman
            Participant

              US Member

              Well turns out it wasn’t the fuel pump. Had a little piece of trash under the float needle. Now for the NEXT trouble. Seems to run and idle good in the barrel and pumping a good amount of water out the exhaust but it sure seemed like the block and heads were hot when I shut it off. I looked online for the water pump kit but don’t see one at all. It’s a V4SL_10 MODEL. ANYBODY know of a source?. The gentleman I bought the boat from said he put new seals in the lower unit but the water pump “looked good” thanks

              It's a jungle out there.

              #258402
              frankr
              Participant

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                If you are looking for a complete water pump kit, including housing, I believe the part number is 379776

                #259279
                tinkerman
                Participant

                  US Member

                  just an update on this motor I got the fuel pump right got the water pump changed out. Took it out on the lake for a test run today. It started well idled good. Full throttle it still feels like it’s not quite wide open ….smooth but just lacking a little. When I click back from WOT. it ever so slightly loses power till it gets to a certain point then acts like it’s starving for gas. I didn’t have anyone with me to adjust the high idle. When I got home I was checking the fuel lines. I pumped the ball up and could hear air coming out my fuel line coupling going to the front tank (the one I was running off of) I ordered a new male and female, could this cause it to sick air and starve for fuel WITHOUT causing the engine to stall?? Just puzzled at this point. I’m going to an AOMCI wet meet in Nashville next weekend so hopefully can get some help adjusting the carb out bit just wondering about the coupling leaking and what problems this would cause thanks

                  It's a jungle out there.

                  #259280
                  frankr
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                    US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

                    Well sure, any air leakage will make it tend to lack fuel supply.  What kind of fuel tanks do you have?  Is the air sound you hear at the coupling to a regular 6-gallon tank?  They often leak at the little pins that the hose coupling push in when connected.  The original ’58 tanks were especially bad about this.  But the newer ones also will do it.  They are repairable.

                    #259301
                    tinkerman
                    Participant

                      US Member

                      it has an original 12 gallon tank under the front seat with a fuel line running to the back of the boat with a coupler. I’ve got two 6 gallon original style tanks in the rear. I can connect the fuel line from the motor directly to either of the 6 gallon tanks or to the coupler going to the 12 gallon tank. I was running off the 12 gallon tank yesterday and the coupling at the back of the boat is where I heard the air hiss after I got home

                      It's a jungle out there.

                      #259310
                      fleetwin
                      Participant

                        US Member

                        You might try using bypassing all that stuff and using one 6 gallon tank with a known good fuel line.  There is some sort of issue with your fuel system if the engine runs well on a single 6 gallon tank.  Could be a restriction, air leak, or both.  These engines suck down alot of fuel, so a good fuel system is required.

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