Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1958 Johnson FD-12 18 HP help needed
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opposedtwin.
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May 5, 2017 at 2:18 pm #57148
Chris – the water passage cover on your 18 lower unit is on backwards. The water intake holes for running in neutral should be toward the front (closer to the pump) . . . 🙂
May 5, 2017 at 3:29 pm #57153quote Chris_P:I used NY Marine paint.I really like the color match of the NY Marine paint. It’s worth the little extra IMHO. But also wouldn’t mind using Mumbles off the shelf match if it was still out there somewhere.
May 5, 2017 at 4:30 pm #57158Maybe repair of water incursion freeze cracking ?
May 5, 2017 at 11:38 pm #57171I respect the years you guys have working on these old timers so with that said, thanks to Mumbles and Wedgie for their input. I would also appreciate anyone chiming in with their 1 or 2 cents worth as I’m not wanting to create a new issue here with the lower unit. I have taken off the top of the weld but not flush with the case yet so needless to say all work comes to a screeching halt. No evidence of a crack covered up has been seen yet. I would think if it would be from freezing up that would have meant water in the gear case and a normal person, I would think, would not let that happen as they put the motor away for winter. I have not cracked the case open yet but it does shift smoothly and doesn’t appear to have any binding up of the gears, good news there but then again, no load placed on it yet. Maybe I can open the case this weekend and look for prior interior damage as Mumbles suggested. I don’t have any idea of the history of where the motor has been in it’s life so freezing is a possibility. Frank, Chris, any thoughts on this?
May 6, 2017 at 6:37 pm #57204For color match, I’ve used Duplicolor #8800572 a number of times (Burgundy Pearl Metallic) — white or light grey primer seems to work best.
The ’57-’58 had the rounded A.V. plates, which are a little distinctive if doing a restoration. Later 18s/20s had angular edges — in case you end up looking for a replacement gearcase.
May 6, 2017 at 10:23 pm #57224Anonymous
quote Oldboat1:For color match, I’ve used Duplicolor #8800572 a number of times (Burgundy Pearl Metallic) — white or light grey primer seems to work best.That would be a great tidbit to add to the "Paint & Decals" section!!
viewforum.php?f=18
May 6, 2017 at 11:17 pm #57226Might be in there somewhere. Some time ago, we did submissions (might have been a LONG time ago), but will check.
May 7, 2017 at 12:59 am #57229quote Desert troller:I respect the years you guys have working on these old timers so with that said, thanks to Mumbles and Wedgie for their input. I would also appreciate anyone chiming in with their 1 or 2 cents worth as I’m not wanting to create a new issue here with the lower unit. I have taken off the top of the weld but not flush with the case yet so needless to say all work comes to a screeching halt. No evidence of a crack covered up has been seen yet. I would think if it would be from freezing up that would have meant water in the gear case and a normal person, I would think, would not let that happen as they put the motor away for winter. I have not cracked the case open yet but it does shift smoothly and doesn’t appear to have any binding up of the gears, good news there but then again, no load placed on it yet. Maybe I can open the case this weekend and look for prior interior damage as Mumbles suggested. I don’t have any idea of the history of where the motor has been in it’s life so freezing is a possibility. Frank, Chris, any thoughts on this?Considering the location of those welds it would seem obvious that it probably is broken for some reason. Maybe it froze, maybe it puked. But behind those welds is the oil-filled inside of the gearcase. Don’t be grinding it off and let the oil gush out.
June 12, 2017 at 2:22 am #59501Here’s an update; finally was able to get time to take the lower unit off and take it apart. No water in the oil, no metal bits after dragging a magnet through the oil and the sediments in the bottom half of the case. The gears and splines all have nice clean, square, sharp edges including the dog. I can’t imagine this has more than 25 hours on it if even that. The area where the welds are the metal is ever so slightly pushed in which would indicate an outside cause and not from the inside as in freezing or a gear exploding. I’m thinking that motor was subjected to being beat up by a sharp rock when anchored during some rough weather which more or less punctured the case from the outside. At any rate, the lower unit is definitely like new and the welds can be taken down so it’s not so obnoxious looking I believe. I picked up German coils, points and condensers from Chris, two Atom Modules from Jim and still looking for a starter bracket which Chris is working on. Anybody know of one somewhere for sale? I’m anxious to get this motor on my boat, I think it’s going to scream and make a few folks real jealous, especially when painted back to original later this year. It goes on a welded 1972 Gregor 13 foot aluminum, polished and shiny. It’ll be a great looking pair that flies on the water.
I see lots of seal kits for the lower unit for sale, anyone have a suggestion for a kit that’s better than the others. The plug wires are not copper core but a stranded wire core about double in size of a copper wire like a t.v. cable would have. Am I good keeping those or change them out?
Thanks
PS- can anyone tell me what this bracket fits and does anyone need it?June 12, 2017 at 2:36 am #59504I think it is for a 1956 15hp Johnson 6 Volt starter, but not 100% positive. It is fairly rare and in high demand. 1957-up 12 Volt even more so.
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