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I’m sure I don’t have the right one, it’s not working. The choke activates but not the starter. I’ll go to O’reilly and see if they have the correct one. Then the mercury switch wire goes to the negative for sure, does the wire on the cutout switch also go to the negative?
.It shows the magento going to the key switch, but I don’t have that. So I assume the magneto would get power with the key in the ‘on’ position, so it takes constant 12V? Or only to the + starter pole?
Soooo frustrating. I used to be smart, or thought I was until this. Anyway, so I have a starter solenoid, but it just won’t kick the starter. The question, without any safeties, how to I just get the starter to engage? The picture is how I have it wire now, but nothing it happening!
Why does it appear that you have an extra small red lead attached to the large starter post on the solenoid? What is the little black wire hiding in your hand? It looks as though you don’t have anything connected to one of the small solenoid terminals…These little terminals should have a ground on one side, and switched B+ on the other to power the magnet to connect the two large terminals so the starter has B+ to power up…
No, the magneto does not get any B+ power from anything at anytime… I think you are confused because the key switch has a few separate circuits that are not connected in any way….
There are the B+ terminals on the key switch that handle the starter and choke functions.
Then there should be two “M” terminals that are totally independent…These are not really “ground” terminals, and should not be used for grounding any accessories. This engine is shut off by connecting both sets of points together which cancels spark on both cylinders….So, the two “M” terminals in the key switch are connected together when the key switch is turned off to short the two sets of points together and kill spark on both cylinders. Again, these terminals are totally independent from the other terminals on the key switch which handle B+ functions…1 user thanked author for this post.
I gotta get in on this tread!
1 You have a magneto ignition and you DO NOT need 12volt to the ignition.
2 Positive from battery goes to the big terminal on your selinoid.
3 Cable from the starter motor goes on the other big terminal on the selinoid.
4 Ground from battery goes to motor powerhead.
5 You need a small wire going from positive battery terminal to your starter button.
6 The second wire from your button goes to the small terminal on the selinoid.As fleetwin says=.So, the two “M” terminals in the key switch are connected together when the key switch is turned off to short the two sets of points together and kill spark on both cylinders. Again, these terminals are totally independent from the other
terminals on the key switch which handle B+ functions…hope this helps
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Thanks Labradorguy: I have 1-6 done as you’ve said, that’s how I got it to crank. Since I don’t have a key switch, I’m still not sure what to do with the magneto wire that comes from the top of the engine. I think the consensus is that the mercury wire and the cutout switch go to the negative terminal on the starter solenoid.Where does the magneto wire go?
It would be soooo much easier if I could just find a mechanic in Texas to do this!
You mentioned going to O’Reilly for the correct solenoid. They carry, or can get for you, an aftermarket one by Sierra Marine, but they may call it an O’Reilly. Same for NAPA auto parts. The part number at both places is 18-5807. Same number for Sierra online at marine places like iboats.com. The ones for Ford cars in the late 1950s, and most 1960s look the same but aren’t and you will fry some wires if you directly replace with one of those. Here’s a link to the Oreilly part:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/search?q=18-5807
Dave
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Yes, sounds like the time to check for spark….Please be very careful, sounds like you have plenty of fuel/vapors laying around in that motor pan….
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