Topic: 1959 10 HP Evinrude Sportwin – Page 3 – Antique Outboard Motor Club,Inc

This topic has 35 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 6 years, 5 months ago by fleetwin.

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June 15, 2018 at 11:05 am #77951
Buccaneer
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US Member
You’re ugly one is still nicer than mine, lol.
Will check my wrist pins for slop today.
If you ended up with three of this model
with no wrist pin problems, the failure rate
must have been 25% or less!

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June 15, 2018 at 1:38 pm #77959
fisherman6
Participant
US Member - 2 Years
With regards to wristpins, technically I have 4 of these. I have a 1959 Johnson QD-20 that has a Golden Jubilee Sportwin Powerhead on it and its another very good runner. I also just sold yet another 1959 QD-20 to a friend of mine that also runs very well and didn’t exhibit any issues with wristpins. That’s (5) 1959 OMC 10s that I have or have had so far and none of those had any problems. On the other hand, I have had (2) 1961 QD-22s (sold one) and neither of those had any real issues, but both are noisier motors than the 59s and do not seem to have quite the grunt. I really have no idea why. With the full needle bearing powerhead, I would have thought they would be just as strong or a little better. Maybe I just have not had the best luck with the 61s. 😕 I do have a 1958 QD-19 that I have not gone thru yet. It seems to have some slop in it. We’ll see how that one acts once its running. It may end up needing an overhaul. I’ve had pretty good luck with the 10s overall and I have quite a few of them from different years from 1949 to 1961. Either the failure rate isn’t that bad or my luck has just been really good (which would go against my luck with most things). 🙄
-Ben

OldJohnnyRude on YouTube
June 15, 2018 at 4:00 pm #77972
Buccaneer
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US Member
I did some checking out this morning, and I
do have the dreaded "CLUNK" on the wrist pin
test. Not real impressed with the compression either,
64 & 70 psi. Good news is it had spark, lol.

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June 15, 2018 at 4:06 pm #77973
Mumbles
Participant
quote Buccaneer:

I
do have the dreaded “CLUNK” on the wrist pin
test.

Are you going to try starting it to see how bad it is? If it needs fixing, break out the 660 and you can rebush the rods.

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June 15, 2018 at 4:12 pm #77974
Buccaneer
Participant
US Member
quote Dan in TN:

I believe the #378330 rod (replacement) that takes the wrist pin bearings & other parts mentioned will go all the way back to the QD-10. I have collected up several sets of this stuff. I have two motors to rebuild. One with broken crank because PO didn’t know how to remove flywheel. $15 motor. Said it ran fine, but needed coils? Upon tear down like FrankR said the piston wrist pin holes were shot!
The nice thing about this repair is I believe it will allow the motor to be run on a leaner fuel/oil mix. Might not go all the way to 50/1, but 32/1 or even 40/1 would clean things up nicely. Not too worried about the center main as later model engines were at 50/1 with that setup. JMHO

Dan in TN

Dan, are you saying that pistons and rods from the Johnson QD 10 hp series
are interchangeable with the subject motor? I tried looking up parts numbers
between the two motors last night, (QD-14 & 1959 Evinrude 10 hp) and the only numbers that matched
up were the piston rings, but I’m not up on superseding numbers, etc.
I have a "froze up" QD-10, but probably not any good no how.
Has anyone ever fixed the wrist pin slop on these by using over sized wrist pins?

Thanks!

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June 15, 2018 at 4:16 pm #77975
Buccaneer
Participant
US Member
quote Mumbles:

quote Buccaneer:

I
do have the dreaded “CLUNK” on the wrist pin
test.

Are you going to try starting it to see how bad it is? If it needs fixing, break out the 660 and you can rebush the rods.

Mumbles, when I tested for the "clunk" this morning, it seemed like a fair
amount of movement, but I did no actual measurement.
I could do wrist pin bushings, but was thinking Frank said the wear
is usually in the piston pin bosses.
I guess I’m out nothing trying to start it, but it’s raining cats and dogs right now!

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June 15, 2018 at 6:26 pm #77982
frankr
Participant
US Member
With regards to seeing if it will start and run: Of course, battered wrist pins bores in the pistons will not prevent it from starting —until the weight of the pin dancing around on the circlip causes the circlip to come out. When that comes out, the pin is going to drop down and be gouging a groove in the cylinder wall and the game is over. So, what’s the point? Do you want to run it till it destructs or live with it till it gets worse, but not broken yet? I guess it is up to you.
June 15, 2018 at 6:27 pm #77983
dan-in-tn
Participant
US Member
The wear will usually be in the wrist pin bosses of the piston. Boring put the bosses & rods to use an over size wrist pin would work for a while, but just weaken a bad situation & make it worse. I believe it is the duty cycle the motor is run in that pounds out the bores. Running WOT at low RPM near peak torque is hard on components. Since boat loads change in small boats constantly it just depends on how long the motor runs this way as to amount of damage? The wear is cumulative. My experience with larger engines that have full compliment bearings has proven this out.
If you have the Common parts reference guide it shows you the parts for the later QDs will fit back to the original 1949 motors.

Dan in TN
June 15, 2018 at 7:00 pm #77991
Buccaneer
Participant
US Member
Dan, thanks for the confirmation on the parts and wisdom.
Frank, regarding "running" it, who knows, the
game may already be over, but you make a good point.
With the compression being on the low end, not sure
if it’s going to be worth putting money into, but
I’ll tear into it in the future.
Am kind of curious though what an outboard with
bad wrist pins sounds like. 😆

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June 15, 2018 at 7:42 pm #77995
Mumbles
Participant
Here’s a worst case scenario when the circlips go south and the pins start walking around.

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