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Just started messing around with this $25 Tomahawk Special.
No spark, but the compression is an even 74 & 73 psi.I thought it would be nice to work on something semi modern
for a change, but I’m already wondering about that decision,
as the flywheel puller holes aren’t threaded, and only drilled
1/4″ deep in the flywheel.I take that the factory didn’t want anyone but their certified
mechanics working on them?
Did they “drill out” and tap the holes when needed, or did they
have some kind of special puller?I put a semi large three arm puller on it, as the flywheel looked
pretty sturdy with the ring gear on it, but I’m afraid to tighten
it too much, as the puller jaws are only grabbing on the ring gear teeth.
I tried “lifting up” on the puller bolt and whacking it with a hammer,
but didn’t want to get carried away with that either.No idea if one can drill out the flywheel holes and tap them without
ruining something on the mag plate.
Ideas? Thanks.P.S.- I see that I neglected to put the nut back on the crankshaft.
Prepare to be boarded!
Do not use that puller. It may damage the flywheel. Make yourself a knocker. Find a couple of nuts and short bolt, the shorter the better, same thread as the shaft. Run a nut up on the bolt, then the second one on only a couple of turns, then run the first nut back down to jam against the second one. You just made a special tool.
To use, thread the knocker onto the shaft, hand tight. Lift or gently pry upward on the flywheel and give the knocker a rap or two with a hammer. Put away the sledge, only 16 oz MAX hammer. It is the shock that does it, not the bash.
Works with lawn mowers and chainsaws also.
Happy to report that my homemade “Popper” worked today.
I put a short chunk of 2×4 in the vise to support one side of
the flywheel, and held the other side of the flywheel via hand.
It took 5 decent whacks before the flywheel popped loose.
It appears that no harm was done.A little long, and the hole drilled and tapped too deep.
Better…..
Hopeful on the coils…. points are fouled, so
hopefully that’s the “no spark” reason.
Prepare to be boarded!
Buck, your knocker should make contact with
the end of the crankshaft putting the impact of
the blows there. If it doesn’t then your putting
the impact on the crankshaft threads which
could distort them. If your knocker is in fact
making contact with the end of the crankshaft
ignore this response.
Tubs.
Buck, your knocker should make contact with
the end of the crankshaft putting the impact of
the blows there. If it doesn’t then your putting
the impact on the crankshaft threads which
could distort them. If your knocker is in fact
making contact with the end of the crankshaft
ignore this response.
Tubs.Tubs, I understand what you’re saying, but there’s no practical
way to tap threads to the very bottom of a bind hole, even with
a bottoming tap. I did tighten the knocker nice and snug until
it ran out of threads, so it was nice and tight on the threads.
I actually thought about looking for a ball bearing to sit atop
of the crankshaft, then tighten down the nut, but then I was
wondering if it might flare out the top threads and jamb my
knocker.
I possibly could chuck the knocker in the lathe, and try to
bore out the top of the hole above the threads, using a boring
bar, so the knocker would screw on all the way, hitting the top of the crankshaft.
Thoughts?Prepare to be boarded!
How about threading it all the way through and putting a bolt in it?
Tubs.That would probably work too.
Maybe I can find a “how to” book on knockers.Prepare to be boarded!
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