Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1959 Evinrude 18HP Golden Jubilee Fuel Line Conversion Help
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hmai.
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April 26, 2017 at 7:56 pm #6853
Great site here. I have found lots of useful information for this strong running engine. Problem is, of course. the gas tanks condition. being that I have a trusty Johnson 9.9 – I figured it would be easiest to just convert the motor to a single line unit and run it around 24:1. I have seen a bunch of information about how to do it on 5.5’s and some 10’s, and leroys page seems to point me in the right direction, but he does also seem to take a technical curve with his information.
I am wondering if anyone can point me in the direction of a step by step with parts used somewhere on this site. I have searched and found amazing information, but nothing to make me want to dive into it tomorrow. any information will help, i am quite capable of taking older things and making them shiny and new Thanks
April 26, 2017 at 9:24 pm #56695Well, I would begin by saying if you want to run both engines off the same tank, I would use the heavier 24:1 mix that the 18hp requires even in the newer engine. The conversion for this engine is fairly simple, simply using the pieces off a 1960 18hp. You will need just two parts, the fuel pump and a new bypass cover with the fuel pump mount and pulse port:
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johns … +Fuel+Pump
Items 39,40, and 7, and #0 the fuel pump
Yes, I too am confused, this indicates a new fuel pump is no longer available, but I find that hard to believe, look for #388685 fuel pump
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johns … el+Bracket
You will also need item 111, the single line fuel inlet connector. YES, I realize this is way over priced, I am sure you can find a used one.
The only other thing you will need to do is cap off the pressure port outlet nipple on the intake manifold. You can put a rubber cap over the nipple, or remove the nipple and thread in a convention threaded cap. I’m not sure what size thread is used, but think it is pipe thread.
The fuel pump will have a screen filter, so you can delete the filter on the engine to simplify things, or keep it in the line as well….April 26, 2017 at 10:14 pm #56697If you are going to go the change bypass cover route, use this fuel pump (not mine):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sierra-18-7351- … Swo4pYLxdLApril 26, 2017 at 11:46 pm #56701April 27, 2017 at 2:18 pm #56718Thanks everyone!
So, from researching what you said i can either buy a newer bypass cover, already set up, or drill out mine. what drill size works best? what is the highest year model that i can use? I see a few on ebay that look like they can work, i will post pics.
Also, I am assuming that i also eliminate the glass gas bulb near the dual line connector on the other side of the engine? I really like your set up crosbyman so i am shooting for that. also, what size hose should i be using? thanks.
will this one work on my engine? is it one of you selling it?? lol
April 27, 2017 at 6:36 pm #56726and also is this the pump you used?
https://www.amazon.com/Mikuni-Genuine-S … B000GTV9AK
April 27, 2017 at 9:26 pm #56734What kind of trouble are you having with the original 2 line pressure tank? A little rust inside usually won’t hurt anything,
unless it really bad. It’s easy to repair these tanks, and even the fuel connectors. Just a thought…April 27, 2017 at 10:26 pm #56736If you are going to buy a newer bypass cover, use the 18-7351 fuel pump that I posted earlier
If you are going to drill and tap your bypass cover, use the Mikuni pump that you posted. You would use a 5/16" drill and a 1/8" NPT tap.
It kind of sounds like you don’t know what that is. It might be easier for you to bite the bullet and get the bypass cover and 18-7351. Besides, that would make it "Factory"
April 27, 2017 at 11:50 pm #56740quote FrankR:If you are going to buy a newer bypass cover, use the 18-7351 fuel pump that I posted earlierIf you are going to drill and tap your bypass cover, use the Mikuni pump that you posted. You would use a 5/16″ drill and a 1/8″ NPT tap.
It kind of sounds like you don’t know what that is. It might be easier for you to bite the bullet and get the bypass cover and 18-7351. Besides, that would make it “Factory”
Thanks for the measurements, Frank. I have done tap and die jobs on things id rather not mention…lol like broken bolts down deep in engine blocks that when i recall them, i still cringe…haha so this looks a bit like fun. i just like the option of being able to go back to stock on things.
with that being said would the above bypass cover work on my engine?
April 27, 2017 at 11:59 pm #56741quote Jerry Ahrens:What kind of trouble are you having with the original 2 line pressure tank? A little rust inside usually won’t hurt anything,
unless it really bad. It’s easy to repair these tanks, and even the fuel connectors. Just a thought…female connector is swollen wont fit on male connector, even though i can push the spring all the way down on both sides.
so much rust the diaphragm plate snapped off the bottom of the pipe and there is so much rust it has pin holes.
fuel line is rotted, so are the ones connecting the male connector to the gas bulb. (do i need to remove this?)
rust so bad its even all over the float. I tried to start the process with BB’s and Muriatic acid and made a small mess which was,,,lol interesting. i intend to build an electrostatic tub and completely restore the tank and potentially use it or sell it when done, but that has to wait until season end.
other than that i wouldve loved to have been using it.
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