Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1959 Evinrude Lark 35 hp tear down
- This topic has 31 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 4 years, 3 months ago by fleetwin.
-
AuthorPosts
-
October 11, 2020 at 7:17 pm #218326
I decided today to tear into the subject motor a little. This one came with the last
boat I purchased, so I have no prior history of it.
The compression was 110 psi “top” and only 60 psi “bottom” cylinder, hence
the tear down.The bottom piston is scored and not sure if the cylinder is salvageable yet
or not, until I get the piston out.What’s the most likely cause of only one cylinder getting toasted?
Lean condition / bad seal?
Lack of lubrication?
Overheating?This is the first “super silent” style OMC I’ve worked on that has to extra shrouding on the lower unit.
I haven’t studied the lower much yet, but was just wondering if the gear case can be dropped
to access the impeller, etc., without doing anything further with the L.U. shrouding?Thanks!
Prepare to be boarded!
October 11, 2020 at 7:59 pm #218340Well, could have been so many things….Doesn’t look like the block was overheated though, not discolored. You might have a look at the plug threads, perhaps someone put some thread insert in there that might have allowed the plug to heat up too much. What size prop is on the engine? Perhaps someone had it overpropped and was lugging the engine at high RPMs. Not enough oil/lousy oil is always a possibility… Perhaps someone had some hot plugs in there trying to make it idle better. The engine is in such nice shape otherwise, looks like the gearcase was replaced though, surely was only used in fresh water.
Perhaps the engine was partially overheated, worn pump, no thermostat/poppet valve.
Check the mag plate stops to make sure nothing is broken that might be allowing it to over advance.
Finally, keep in mind that those compression relief valves might be messed up causing the low reading in one cylinder, even though the cylinder is clearly scored, and there is aluminum transfer…Kinda looks like detonation/preignition damage, but who knows….October 11, 2020 at 9:28 pm #218343The dents on the piston make me think it has swallowed something. You’ll know once you finish opening it up.
Be sure to look for pin holes in that aluminum exhaust cover.
Lower unit removal is conventional–disconnect shift rod, unbolt it and drop it down.
Don’t forget the o-ring on top of the water pump when it goes back together, or it’ll drive you crazy.
October 11, 2020 at 9:42 pm #218344Thanks for the sage advise guys. You covered a few things that I didn’t think about,
like the pin holes and pre ignition via ignition or a bad helicoil.
I’ll check out the prop size, compression relief valves and the rest!
Thanks!!Prepare to be boarded!
October 12, 2020 at 7:54 am #218352Looks like a great candidate for a rebuild, nice low hour fresh water engine in great cosmetic condition!
October 12, 2020 at 3:38 pm #218368Just spent a little more time tearing down the Lark.
The lower cylinder may get by with some honing,
a new piston, and rings, but I haven’t done much for
measuring other than determine the cylinder bore is
a little over 3″ diameter.Big chunk of the piston ring lands are “gone” and some
of the rings fell to pieces.I haven’t finished playing detective yet, but I didn’t see
anything missing that the piston may have ingested.
The spark threads look in good shape, original, and no
heli coils in them.If I find anything definitive, I’ll check back, but perhaps someone
will have more ideas after looking at the photos.Prepare to be boarded!
October 12, 2020 at 4:42 pm #218384Well, we can see why the compression was so low!! Cylinder bore should be 3-1/16″. I also think it should clean up with a good hone job. Should be able to find a good used piston and some NOS rings pretty easily.
Bob
1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1955 Johnson QD-16
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."October 12, 2020 at 6:00 pm #218388OK, well it looks like the piston coked up, causing the stuck rings, leading to the melt down… The rings look properly aligned, so I don’t thing the alignment pin for the top set of rings came out…
Perhaps they were using crappy oil…
Hone the cylinder, then remeasure…It won’t be perfect, but will work just fine I’m sure…Don’t “over hone” it to get rid of all the little score marks, use a ball hone to finish up, it will get rid of any little problems and chamfer the ports.
Again, it depends on how perfect you want it…October 12, 2020 at 6:22 pm #218393OK, well it looks like the piston coked up, causing the stuck rings, leading to the melt down… The rings look properly aligned, so I don’t thing the alignment pin for the top set of rings came out…
Perhaps they were using crappy oil…
Hone the cylinder, then remeasure…It won’t be perfect, but will work just fine I’m sure…Don’t “over hone” it to get rid of all the little score marks, use a ball hone to finish up, it will get rid of any little problems and chamfer the ports.
Again, it depends on how perfect you want it…Another possibility I didn’t consider regarding the piston coking up.
Would the theory be that the rings stuck, then hot compression gasses
got past the rings, over heating the piston?It must have been making a hell of a rattle before the last guy shut it off!
Thanks all, for the thoughts and suggestions.Prepare to be boarded!
October 12, 2020 at 8:20 pm #218402I say the ring locating dowel pin came out. Seen it too many times. Somewhere in the then-future years, a change in the pin was made for that reason.
-
AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.