Home Forum Ask A Member 1959 Johnson RDSL 21B Info Needed

Viewing 10 posts - 11 through 20 (of 31 total)
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  • #234372
    fleetwin
    Participant

      US Member

      Tom
      Thanks for the info… Ok, driveshaft won’t turn at all… What “corrosion holes” are you referring to? The next step when you get home is to remove the two big drain/fill screws (one underneath skeg in front, the other over top of the anti-ventilation plate) and see what comes out… If water comes out, this kind of confirms the worst. But, if nothing or very little comes out, this probably means the skeg is split open somewhere allowing the water to drain out after it thawed. Ideally, it would be nice to pressure test the gearcase before disassembly so you can see exactly where the leak(s) are before you pull it down, then concentrate on those areas once it is apart. I’m guessing parts are pretty badly rusted inside. The forward gear is usually more expensive that the reverse gear, sometimes this is because the pinion and forward gear are included in “a set”. Nonetheless, NOS repair parts for this project will probably include many more parts/pieces and be very expensive. Once you have pulled it apart and confirmed the gear housing itself is OK, might be best to look for a used gearcase assembly…This way you can pull the used one apart, and put its good parts in your original gear housing. You may luck out and find another white gearcase that will simply bolt up and go….D

      #234377
      frankr
      Participant

        US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

        Forward and reverse gears are the same. The difference in price and part number is because the forward gear includes the bushing. But the bushings can be swapped between fwd and rev gears.

        #234611
        fleetwin
        Participant

          US Member

          OK, looks like you tacked the pictures of the disassembled gearcase onto your other thread. You mention the pinion is stuck, probably frozen in the bearing like you said…Can you pull the driveshaft out? If so, you could use a long drift punch through the upper seal, resting on the pinion shoulder, and tap it out, don’t think it will take too much effort. And yes, am assuming the two needle bearings in the housing will need to be replaced, along with the upper seal. Remove the gears/clutch dog off the driveshaft, clean everything up so condition can be determined…
          Once again, am assuming there is not freeze crack in the gearcase skeg…Clean it up and have a close look before proceeding…

          #234612
          Tom Alexander
          Participant

            US Member

            Hi, thanks for getting back to me. I have tried a drift on the shoulder of both the bushing under the water pump and the pinion gear/bearing without movement. Banging on them pretty hard too. Used ‘spot check’ dye on skeg and see no sign of any crack. I have looked the fwd., rev. Gear and dog over and they look pretty good. I am hoping I can find a place to get replacement parts as I don’t have a good feeling about getting the remaining bits and pieces out without terminal damage. I hopefully got some pics attached to this reply to show what’s happening. Thanks again. Tom

            #234617
            Tom Alexander
            Participant

              US Member

              I forgot to say yes the drive shaft came out pretty easy. I see lip seal score marks on the shaft either side of woodruff key slot for impeller. I do not see the chromed area for roller bearings that the red book says should be on this engine though.

              #234677
              Tom Alexander
              Participant

                US Member

                Hi: we were away for a bit and I finally got to the yard today to look at that wiring thing. The wire is actually a pair of light gage conductors that go from a small short cylindrical thing mounted under the starter gear ring and slightly inside the outside edge of it, to the two pronged ‘plug’ that protrudes through the front of the pan and just behind the ‘handle’ where steering cable connector hooks on. The small cylindrical thing is flat on the end that mounts to its bracket and rounded on the opposite end. The whole thing is about one inch long, and maybe .85 “ in dia. Wires enter it through a ‘potted’ (I think) hole in the side at the flat end adjacent to the bracket. It is on the stbd. Side of the engine. Hope the pics show well. As good as I could get today. With no connection beyond this little cylinder, I am thinking it is not a kill switch connection but…. any guesses anyone? Oh, I downloaded the red book and can’t find a reference to this thing either.

                E4B69022-8FF5-4CD7-A34E-DB0224903892

                756AED9D-89CD-4719-9EBF-842679A25E4B

                7C76F6D7-AD75-4D43-ADBF-07970B66FDA6

                0DE42A4B-6490-4C6B-A0F4-CEBF896B15BE

                • This reply was modified 4 years ago by Mumbles.
                #234682
                dave-bernard
                Participant

                  US Member

                  Tachometer pickup ?

                  #234683
                  Tom Alexander
                  Participant

                    US Member

                    You may be right on the money! There is a non Johnson tach on the dash. I thought it could be a tach driver earlier but I was thinking a Hall effect pick up which wasn’t around in 1959 which is when I think the tach was put in. That means sort of aftermarket original equip. When I thought the Hall effect pick up wasn’t possible I threw that idea of a tach sensor out. I’ll bet you are right. The boat is upside down just now and it’s quite difficult to get under to trace the wiring. But I’ll bet that’s where it goes! Nice job. Just a simple coil shooting pulses to the tach? Even the right shape isn’t it. Thanks! I owe you a beer. Regards Tom

                    #234688
                    fleetwin
                    Participant

                      US Member

                      OK, sounds like you have ruled out any freeze cracks in the skeg, good news. I guess that pinion is pretty well stuck to the roller/needle bearing. I guess making up some sort of jig and using a big press to drive the pinion out would be the safest method. Perhaps the pinion bearing will press out with the pinion, which would be fine…I’m guessing you will need to replace all the bearings, but the forward/reverse gears are OK. The pinion may be toast due to pitted bearing surface. There should be a needle bearing underneath the upper seal, try to have a look again, or just remove the seal (which needs to be replaced anyway). Seal groove(s) on the driveshaft spell trouble, the driveshaft will probably have to be replaced….

                      #234832
                      Tom Alexander
                      Participant

                        US Member

                        Total clean and inspection yesterday and last night spent my last dime on ordering the parts that I couldn’t find elsewhere buying from Marineengines.com. They are expensive! Scored shaft will be fixed with SPF Speedi Seal. One above the water pump and one below. Inquiries showed weld/grind not a good ides on that small;l a shaft dia. (5/8″) so the Speedi Seal will work but will have to replace it every time the impeller is changed in the future. I guess I should ask on the classified forum if anyone has a driveshaft in primo condition, maybe I will do that now as it will be awhile before parts arrive so I can reassemble the gear case anyway. Meanwhile, back to working on the boat itself. See Ya Tom

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