Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1959 Johnson RDSL 21B Info Needed
- This topic has 30 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 4 years ago by
fleetwin.
-
AuthorPosts
-
March 24, 2021 at 6:07 pm #234879
Yeah, I think it would be best to find a driveshaft in good shape….You are spending alot of money on new parts, no sense scrimping on the driveshaft…
March 24, 2021 at 8:12 pm #234898Total clean and inspection yesterday and last night spent my last dime on ordering the parts that I couldn’t find elsewhere buying from Marineengines.com. They are expensive! Scored shaft will be fixed with SPF Speedi Seal. One above the water pump and one below. Inquiries showed weld/grind not a good ides on that small;l a shaft dia. (5/8″) so the Speedi Seal will work but will have to replace it every time the impeller is changed in the future. I guess I should ask on the classified forum if anyone has a driveshaft in primo condition, maybe I will do that now as it will be awhile before parts arrive so I can reassemble the gear case anyway. Meanwhile, back to working on the boat itself. See Ya Tom
Why do you figure you would have to use/change the Speedi Sleeve above the water pump? I don’t think it would be such a big deal if that one leaks a bit.
March 24, 2021 at 8:46 pm #234901saw a utube some time ago where an expensive but worn industrial shaft was put back in business with a process of ” spray welding” whereby high temp material is litterally spray-welded on the shaft to fill scarring then it is trued on a lathe to meet the original specs (dia.)
maybe a shop with this welding eqpt. could be found in your area…the process actually looked…simple maybe they could restore a small outboard driveshaft if you can’t find a decent one
Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂
March 24, 2021 at 9:03 pm #234904Thanks! Very viable way to do this, I know for sure on larger shafts. I worked in petro chem refineries all over the world and about every one had a set up to do just this so I think it was fairly common. Pretty expensive I am told for small shafts. Today I learned about a SKF product called of all things Speedi Sleeves. Bought in the size needed and hammered on the shaft with a simple tool provided. Hardened steel, .011 thick. Only issue for me is it has to be installed on either side of the impeller and if that needs changing in the future (duh!) one has to be removed some how. Jury still out on how to do that but I am researching that because it looks VERY cost effective.oh and no need to use anything but the seals you would use normally. There are you tube vids about how it is done. I’m currently trying to find out who sell them here in the SF Bay Area.in the pic I finally took you can see the score marks on either side of the impeller keyway.
-
This reply was modified 4 years ago by
Mumbles.
March 24, 2021 at 9:25 pm #234907Good point! I think the chambers above the water pump is a throughway for exhaust and water anyway isn’t it? If so a bit more water, who’s to care? My life may have just been made easier! It would be totally great if a new shaft would magically appear though!
March 25, 2021 at 1:12 am #234919I need to look a bit deeper into the impact a leak upward into the chamber above the water pump could have. I thought it was a throughway for water and exhaust. I find that I cannot prove that to myself with docs I have. Anyone out there know for certain? Thanks Tom
March 25, 2021 at 8:06 am #234920I’m confused again….The shaft appears grooved below the water pump impeller…So, the sleeve would not have to be disturbed when doing water pump maintenance… The groove above the impeller is where the seal for the aluminum impeller housing rides…This seal has nothing to do with keeping oil inside the case, it helps seal up the water pump….I’m not that concerned about the groove above the impeller…So, perhaps you could just install the sleeve below the impeller to take care of the groove where the oil seal rides…
But, once again, my vote is for a better driveshaft…You are spending alot of time and money on this project, may as well go all the way and make it right…March 25, 2021 at 8:44 pm #235005I need to look a bit deeper into the impact a leak upward into the chamber above the water pump could have. I thought it was a throughway for water and exhaust. I find that I cannot prove that to myself with docs I have. Anyone out there know for certain? Thanks Tom
The drive shaft on that motor runs in an isolation tube, semi-sealing the drive shaft from exhaust crud and hot water. This is an important feature, helping to prevent rust and corrosion where the crankshaft seal and splines reside. I say semi-sealed because inevitable water pump leakage at the drive shaft would fill the isolation tube and make matters worse than the problems it prevents. However, OMC already saw that possibility and provided large drain holes and venting to drain off to the outside world, that water escaping from the water pump. So, in my opinion, the meager amount of extra leaking from that grooved shaft is not a problem. FWIW.
March 26, 2021 at 1:00 am #235014This is great news. I am thinking that the shape adds structural strength to the forces the prop generate. This AM a member got in touch with me about the groovy driveshaft and now I am the owner of a pristine un groovy one with the help of a little horse trading! Thanks Wayne! It’s looking good for this gear case rebuild. I would post a pic of the two shafts side by side if I had taken one today. Maybe tomorrow
Thanks Frankr!March 26, 2021 at 1:03 am #235015Fleetwin: got more than a little lucky this AM.I now have a beautiful pristine shaft San any groves. I’ll try to possible side by side pics tomorrow.
-
This reply was modified 4 years ago by
-
AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.