Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1963 Evinrude 10 HP running problem
- This topic has 20 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 5 years, 9 months ago by Steve D.
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June 30, 2018 at 12:40 pm #78727
Yep, that should take care of that problem…and a new oiler wick, clean and set points, coil ring on the coils…should be good to go after that.
June 30, 2018 at 5:31 pm #78748Is there a matching hole burned through the coil, or is that burn mark on the plate from an old cracked coil? Well anyhow, I also see a burn mark on the coil’s spark tower. Might be arcing through to the plate.
June 30, 2018 at 10:21 pm #78763No matching hole on the coil Frank. Seems to be arcing through from the pin area to the plate as you mention.
June 30, 2018 at 10:35 pm #78766Nice looking engine. I have one just like it and they are good runners.I only wish it had the bigger lower unit.
July 1, 2018 at 12:21 am #78773So, is there a pin hole in the bottom of the coil, or was it arcing from burnt spot on the coil where the coil wire plugs in…
July 1, 2018 at 2:54 am #78797Ignition will do that but if you are seeing fuel would try to find the leak before it becomes a problem
Doug
how is it motors multiply when the garage lights get
turned off?July 1, 2018 at 4:04 am #78802quote fleetwin:So, is there a pin hole in the bottom of the coil, or was it arcing from burnt spot on the coil where the coil wire plugs in…No pin hole in the bottom of the coil, it looks like from where the coil wire plugs in.
quote ddwilson:Ignition will do that but if you are seeing fuel would try to find the leak before it becomes a problemI already mentioned to the owner that I think it’s coming from the crankcase seams. I know it won’t get better by itself but he needs the motor for a trip and I won’t have the time to do that before he goes. Since the motor seemed to run pretty strong in the video except for this one problem (and also needs the lower unit seals done), I’ll get these taken care of and then clean up the motor real good and have him watch it and see how quickly it gets oily again or how bad the leak is and monitor that as we go.
July 8, 2018 at 1:11 pm #79219Just thought I’d give an update on the results. I installed new wires and replaced the one suspect coil with a new Prufex. No change in how it ran. Believing it was still ignition related as some of you mentioned, I replaced the condensers with new ones. And that took care of the problem, no more cutting out.
If I started with the condensers, and just cut back the original wires and re-inserted into the coils, it may have run ok too, but for how long? At this point I felt the wires needed replacing anyway and I wasn’t too sure about the coil either, even though it checked out ok with the meter.
Could the original shorting there near the coil pin and wire, have caused the condenser(s) to crap out?
Anyway, thanks to all for your help and suggestions.
July 8, 2018 at 9:35 pm #79245Well, maybe that burn mark on the mag plate was from older coils that were replaced with the ones in your picture. At this point, I would use those inline neon testers or a timing light to see which cylinder is losing fire. It is possible that it is dropping a cylinder due to other conditions besides ignition problems. Not real likely, but possible. Isolating the cylinder that is losing fire/dropping out will help close in on the problem….
July 9, 2018 at 9:31 am #79261Looks like whoever did the ignition work did not use a tune up kit? Especially with the lack of an oiler wick. The Systematched tune up kits actually come with 2 new oiler wicks, so you can replace one and have an extra for another motor.
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