Meier71@yahoo.com wrote:

I really appreciate all the answers! Hopefully I’m addressing all questions. I’m just running it in a 13 gal garbage can with no prop. I was afraid to take it out on water but it sounds like I have to.

The first time I took the GC apart, the oil looked milky. The second time it looked clean. I don’t see any visible leaks when it is out of water.

I changed the float when I rebuilt the carb, I did the crude blow test but I didn’t adjust the tang. Sounds like that is my next step!

Thanks again all!

Yep, just as I suspected. Just goes to prove what tough motors they are. Just think, at 5000 RPM both pistons reach the end of their stroke then stop and accelerate to the opposite opposite end of their cylinders where they stop, reverse directions, and accelerate back to where we started and repeat the process. That’s something on the order of 160 stop and starts per SECOND. Over rev it to 6000 RPM and it becomes 200 stops and starts per SECOND.. Imagine the forces exerted on those parts. Fortunately, on a two stroke engine the load is always on the top end of the pistons instead of being yanked back and forth by the intake/exhaust strokes as they are on a four stroke engine.

frankr wrote:

Meier71@yahoo.com wrote:

I really appreciate all the answers! Hopefully I’m addressing all questions. I’m just running it in a 13 gal garbage can with no prop. I was afraid to take it out on water but it sounds like I have to.

The first time I took the GC apart, the oil looked milky. The second time it looked clean. I don’t see any visible leaks when it is out of water.

I changed the float when I rebuilt the carb, I did the crude blow test but I didn’t adjust the tang. Sounds like that is my next step!

Thanks again all!

Yep, just as I suspected. Just goes to prove what tough motors they are. Just think, at 5000 RPM both pistons reach the end of their stroke then stop and accelerate to the opposite opposite end of their cylinders where they stop, reverse directions, and accelerate back to where we started and repeat the process. That’s something on the order of 160 stop and starts per SECOND. Over rev it to 6000 RPM and it becomes 200 stops and starts per SECOND.. Imagine the forces exerted on those parts. Fortunately, on a two stroke engine the load is always on the top end of the pistons instead of being yanked back and forth by the intake/exhaust strokes as they are on a four stroke engine.

Yeah, I know, I didn’t say that correctly. So before somebody corrects me I’ll try again. The pistons don’t accelerate to the opposite end of the stroke. Truth is that they accelerate half way through the stroke then decelerate the rest of the way to the stop at the end of the stroke. Much nicer than banging back and forth against hard stops in there.

Meier71@yahoo.com wrote:

Now I’m a little confused about the instructions from outbdnut2:

“Float should be level and parallel to the carb body when held upside down with the bowl off like in the photo below.  Bend the tang on the float to adjust.”

Mine clearly isn’t sitting right but I thought the tang was the little piece that makes the 90 degree angle to the float arm and only affects how far open the float gets? Am I bending the whole arm to make it level?

YES.

Meier71@yahoo.com wrote:

Now I’m a little confused about the instructions from outbdnut2: “Float should be level and parallel to the carb body when held upside down with the bowl off like in the photo below.  Bend the tang on the float to adjust.” Mine clearly isn’t sitting right but I thought the tang was the little piece that makes the 90 degree angle to the float arm and only affects how far open the float gets? Am I bending the whole arm to make it level?

Yes – bend the whole arm – the tang does control how far the float can drop, not the bowl fuel level – sorry about that!  My mind must not have been thinking clear when I wrote that.

Dave