Home Forum Ask A Member 1969 Evinrude 40 won’t start hot

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  • #211773
    zephyrskipper
    Participant

      Hi, the engine has low hours, excellent compression. Put in new points, condensors, wires, coils, plugs, thermostat, rebuilt the fuel pump, carburetor, water pump and lower end.

      It starts fine and idles ok, if the front trap door is left open. I had it in the tank for a good half hour above idle, 12-1500 rpm. Good water flow from exhaust and about 180°f at the thermostat.

      When I brought it back to idle it stalled and refused to start for about 20-30 minutes. When it started again it ran great.

      I tried it again with red atom modules, same thing.

      Ran it on the lake with a ’62 Springbok runabout, max speed 26 mph, excellent. Came to idle, stalled and wouldn’t restart for about 20-30 minutes.

      Ideas?

      #211774
      fleetwin
      Participant

        US Member

        Have you checked for spark when the engine is hot and won’t start? You mention something about the engine starting fine if the cowling door is left open…If this is true, then you probably have and exhaust leak causing the engine to breath its own exhaust. There is a big donut type gasket that surrounds the inner exhaust housing that could be damaged or out of place. You had the gearcase off, so that means you had the rear lower cowling off…Did you see the big donut gasket then, maybe it came out of place…

        #211791
        frankr
        Participant

          US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

          Don’t expect it to run well in a tank with the hood on. Now about that fat donut: Yes it could be a problem at slow speeds and/or running in a tank. But the often unseen culprit is the o-ring on top of the water pump. Also the spacer tube if it is a long shaft. Leave any of that stuff out and it will fill the hood with smoke.

          #211803
          zephyrskipper
          Participant

            Yes, I replaced the big o-ring on the drive shaft.
            No, the cowl doesn’t fill up with exhaust on the boat, only in the barrel. I was also trying to start it with the cowl completely off.
            Was unable to check for spark on the lake due to waves and no spark checker. Will have to have someone else drive it and do the work from another boat, or check it in the barrel. It was hard to start hot both in the barrel and on the lake.
            I set the float level parallel to the housing. Idle mixture screw about 5/8 turn out.
            Tried both with and without choke.
            Never had this problem before.

            #211880
            lindy46
            Participant

              Idle screw should be open more like 1.5 turns out to start. 5/8 is too lean.

              #212457
              RON L SHADY
              Participant

                Not sure if my similar experience will help, but you seem to have tried everything else to solve the no-start problem. First, if your engine has a power pack, this is very likely the problem. My experience is with a 1970 Evinrude 85HP—roughly 3 years after I purchased the motor I was having a similar problem with it not starting until waiting about 25-30 minutes—then it would start perfectly as if nothing ever was wrong. After a couple of unsuccesful trips to the dealer to find the cause, I was finally able to duplicate the problem over and over, and actually control the start/no-start condition whenever I wanted to. It turned out that after running the motor wide open for a couple of minutes, then shutting the engine off, it would not start for 30 minutes. If I ran the engine half or 3/4 throttle and repeated the same process of shutting down and re-starting, the engine started fine. It was only after a few minutes of hard, wide-open throttle that the re-start process failed. After explaining this to the dealer (which he did not attempt to duplicate in a tank, thank heaven), I was told that the only other possibility was that a transistor or other electronic component in the power pack was overheating after a hard run and therefore failing to function properly until a cool-down period occurred (25-30 minutes). Since the power pack was sealed, there was no way to troubleshoot individual components, so I decided to take the leap and purchase a new power pack (at a cost of roughly $100 back in 1973 with no returns on electronic parts!!). It was easy to replace, and that solved the problem for years and years to follow.

                #212481
                fleetwin
                Participant

                  US Member

                  Well, this 40hp uses the conventional OMC universal magneto, no powerpack here. But, the same electrical ghosts can haunt even the simple magneto system…

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