US Member - 2 Years
Topics: 37May 31, 2015 at 6:26 pm #17292
Well, looks real nice so far. Looks like the electric start was set up to be controlled at the engine, so no external wiring harness to worry about. I am "assuming" you intend to use the engine as a tiller control, not with remote steering/controls.
OK, gas tank and stand not included, no big deal. But, you say the owner changed the gear lube, so you won’t be able to tell much by cracking the lower drain screw because the gear oil is new. Unfortunately, you can’t really judge the gear case sealing status without pressure testing the gearcase, or just running the engine a few times then changing the lube again to check for water. You can’t judge the condition of the clutch dog/gear lugs by running the engine in a barrel, that can only be judged on a boat in gear under load.
You can check compression before buying though, that engine probably will show at least 110PSI. The pictures don’t show any evidence of overheating, the paint appears to be good/unburnt/not blistered on the cylinder head/exhaust cover.
So, the gamble here is gearcase condition. But, I’m thinking that engine didn’t survive so nicely all these years being poorly serviced or with a leaky gearcase. I would probably be willing to gamble on the gearcase being in good condition, but I’m sure the seller would not be willing to take the engine back if problems were found. So, use this unkown as a bargaining chip unless the owner is willing to refund if gearcase problems are found.
Again, plan on doing some servicing next winter in order to ensure longevity. There is no need to "reseal" the gearcase unless water leakage is noted. But, you do want to pull the gearcase down, and change the impeller though, unless the seller can prove this was recently done.
Please take the time to look the engine over carefully. Look for bent/cracked castings, or signs of being repainted. Look closely at the gearcase skeg, be sure it isn’t bent/cracked/worn down. Spin the propeller, look for signs of a bent prop shaft. The model and serial number on the powerhead ID plug should match the numbers on the stern brackets also.
Listen to the engine while it is running, make sure it pumps water and idles OK. It is normal for these engines to fuss and spit while warming up, but it should settle down and idle nicely after a few minutes of warm up.
So, I guess what I’m saying is that this engine looks like an nice candidate for purchase. But, I am not there and can’t see the engine up close. It surely "appears" to be an original low hours survivor in good condition. I’m not sure how much faster it will be than the standard 18hps of the day, but there will be a noticeable difference. Electric start is surely a nice option to have also. Try to negotiate a little lower price, but know the engine is worth the asking price is it truly is everything it is advertised and appears to be.
PS- I am assuming you are looking for a short shaft/standard length" for a 15" transom, converting it to a 20"/long shaft model would probably cost you a few hundred dollars.
Good luck, hope it works out for you. DonJune 3, 2015 at 12:20 am #17472
Wow! Thanks so much for the info Don! I really appreciate the responses from everyone! I plan to go look at the motor this weekend. I now have a good idea of what to look for and I feel a lot more confident that I won’t have a repeat of the first experience I had buying an outboard!
Thanks again all! This forum rocks! 😀June 8, 2015 at 2:29 pm #17800
Well, I ended up buying the motor 😀 So far everything seems to be OK but I do have one concern. The water coming out of the water pump is pretty darn warm after running for a little while. It seems to be pumping water good, but I though about replacing the impeller anyways. Should I be concerned with the water temp?
I was also curious if anyone had any recommendations on the gas/oil ratio that I should be using. I used 50:1 but I found some info on the internet recommending 100:1 and some recommending 24:1. Thanks again!
Canada Member - 2 Years
Topics: 429June 8, 2015 at 4:19 pm #17802
OMC motors in the mid-eighties used the 100:1 mix for a short time but it just about put OMC into bankruptcy repairing motors still on warranty. You can throw that mix out the window. Originally, your motor used 50:1 but running it on a little bit richer mix wouldn’t hurt anything and would probably help to extend it’s lifespan.
The thermostat must be working if the water coming out of the idle relief is quite warm. The only way to tell for sure if the motor is at its correct operating temperature is to measure it with an infrared thermometer or special heat sticks. A cheap thermometer can be found online or at stores like Harbour Freight. A fresh impeller or water pump kit always gives peace of mind and the thermostat should be checked or replaced especially if the motor has been used in salt water.June 8, 2015 at 6:02 pm #17808
Thanks for the info Mumbles! I have a thermometer that I can use, what temperature range should the water be in?
Canada Member - 2 Years
Topics: 429June 8, 2015 at 6:34 pm #17811
An outboard Tstat should open around 143 F. to keep the temperature within safe limits. Above 160 F or so, salts and minerals in the water can leach out and build up deposits in the water jackets. This is why only TCW III (Two Cycle, Water Cooled) marine oil should be used in an outboard motor as it is designed to burn off at the lower operating temperatures.
When you check your motors temperature, you’ll find hot spots and cold spots but generally the top of the block and on the starboard side where the welch plug is are good places to check.June 8, 2015 at 10:46 pm #17822
Great info Mumbles! I’m going to try to get some temperature readings this weekend. If does turnout that the temperature is higher than 160 even after an impeller change what could be the cause? Will it still pump water good even if there is a blockage somewhere in the cooling system?
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