Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1970 4 HP, one cyl American Made Mercury
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outbdnut2.
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August 15, 2023 at 1:12 am #279235
I’m working on a neighbor’s1970 4 HP, 1 cyl American made Mercury, SN: 2775619 that has no spark and I have a few questions. It has points and a complex stator assembly #336-3962A4.
1. What are the approximate resistance readings on the primary and secondary of the coil (I’m getting an open circuit on the secondary from spark plug wire tower to ground)?
2. On the starboard side there is a screw with white ground wires going to it. One white wire goes up under the flywheel. One white wire, about 8 to 10 inches long has the other end not connected – where does this go? I don’t see a kill switch, or a place to put one, so I doubt it’s for that.
3. By chance does anyone have a wiring diagram?
4. How can I check to see if there is a CD signal being dumped to the coil primary? I put a voltmeter on it on low AC and a DC scales to see if I could get the meter needle to wiggle a bit – it didn’t. If needed, I know I can bring my oscilloscope to the garage and see what’s there while I turn the flywheel with a drill, but I’d just as soon not go to that trouble. I do have a sample and hold adapter for a voltmeter, but it’s funky on these short duration CD signals.
Thanks,
DaveAugust 15, 2023 at 9:26 am #279237https://wrcoutboards.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/The-Phase-Maker-CDI.pdf
clean the GC cavity and water drain hole !! see pic. full of hardned sand and gunk on mine
great little engine…sips fuel trolls all day. Make certain the small top side idle tube is clean !! see diagram
it may be a phase maker ignition.works very well point will look dirty but their work fine by MAKING vs the usual breaking of the contact point.
if so….. book says DO NOT USE THE KILL BUTTON IF BUCKET TESTING it can kill the coil !!!
if no kill button you kill it with the choke button.
what problem do you have… no sparks ??
you can download a maintenance book for $5.95 covers all merc from 1966 to 1975 . 3.9hp up to 6 cyl
Service Manual Vault recommended FREE downloads
I don’t see it anymore on the site but contact them . I had mine locally printed
Mercury Mariner 4 Horsepower Stator 174-3996 174-4469 174-4470 | Outboardignition.com
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August 15, 2023 at 10:49 am #279256No spark is usually the white insulator replace it.
August 15, 2023 at 11:28 am #279258Crosbyman and Dave B. – Thanks for all the info! Just what I needed! I’ll be digging into the motor again today or tomorrow.
Dave Stanton (Outbdnut2)
August 15, 2023 at 11:37 am #279260use archive 815749 for detail parts
btw…. seems I read the capacitor must be 800v tolerance if you have to change it
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August 15, 2023 at 1:24 pm #279261Everything checks out with an Ohmmeter, except the secondary of the coil is an open circuit. It’s a brown coil. I have a one year newer (1971) 7.5 HP parts motor with one good green coil. Can I swap the green coil for the brown one? or is the CD voltage pulse incompatible with the green coil?
Dave
August 15, 2023 at 1:42 pm #279263are you testing directly on the coil’S HV output pin ?
have you verified the boot’s internal connection …to the plug wire
try testing the coil secondary with a VERY SMALL needle stuck in the plug wire … maybe the problem is just at the boot end of things.
reseal the small pin prick with a dab of silicon.
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August 15, 2023 at 2:11 pm #279265Thanks for the insight. I tested with a screwdriver held into the output tower of the coil and a test lead on the screwdriver – I can see that the screwdriver is touching the internal brass connector I’m holding it against with pressure. I removed the coil and put the other lead right on the now -exposed ground wire. I also checked the spark plug wire and continuity is great. I’m a retired electrical engineer with a lot of TV stereo repair background in a past life, so I understand making good contact and eliminating bad wires, etc. The coil secondary is open no matter how hard I try to insure a good connection, one of the green coils from the parts motor is also open, and physically damaged; and the other green one tests fine with the same test method. Can I use the green one? Otherwise I have a couple more parts motors I can dig out and see what they have for coils, but I have to move several motors to get to them. I also understand that resistance check is not a perfect test for coils because spark could be jumping inside then through bad insulation.
DaveAugust 15, 2023 at 2:19 pm #279266green brown black hard to say maybe Dave Bernard can help out specs wise
check for similar part#s on different years maybe the color was just a diff. manufacturing process with the internals being the same .
some cheap ones (in pairs for <60$) on Amazon…. can’t say about the specs but they physicallly look the same .
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August 15, 2023 at 5:13 pm #279271The part number is close ,but not quite the same on the brown and green coils. Note that in the manual pages you posted, Crosbyman, it gives slightly different resistance readings for “Green” , and “Brown”, while red and brown coils are the same readings. These values are all in the same testing info tables, so there is a difference. The green has slightly higher resistance readings for the primary, and 5 to 6 times the resistance in the secondary. I’m thinking a lot more secondary turns will step the spark voltage up higher, but I don’t want to risk an artifact getting back on the primary and killing the stator. The green one was probably made for a different pulse voltage from the capacitor.
I’ll check my other parts motors for a brown one, and if I can’t find one, I’ll probably try the green coil.. This motor is not worth $180 for a new coil. No aftermarket ones show up.
As long as I’m on here again, I’ll “FYI-mention” that the capacitor must be potted up in the stator, as it’s not there and does not show on the parts list or exploded view.
Some day , maybe I’ll learn to tell people “no” when they have a Mercury to work on – they take way more of my time than OMCs and Champions.
Dave -
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