Home Forum Ask A Member 1970 4 HP, one cyl American Made Mercury

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  • #279235
    outbdnut2
    Participant

      US Member

      I’m working on a neighbor’s1970 4 HP, 1 cyl American made Mercury, SN: 2775619 that has no spark and I have a few questions. It has points and a complex stator assembly #336-3962A4.

      1. What are the approximate resistance readings on the primary and secondary of the coil (I’m getting an open circuit on the secondary from spark plug wire tower to ground)?
      2. On the starboard side there is a screw with white ground wires going to it. One white wire goes up under the flywheel. One white wire, about 8 to 10 inches long has the other end not connected – where does this go? I don’t see a kill switch, or a place to put one, so I doubt it’s for that.
      3. By chance does anyone have a wiring diagram?
      4. How can I check to see if there is a CD signal being dumped to the coil primary? I put a voltmeter on it on low AC and a DC scales to see if I could get the meter needle to wiggle a bit – it didn’t. If needed, I know I can bring my oscilloscope to the garage and see what’s there while I turn the flywheel with a drill, but I’d just as soon not go to that trouble. I do have a sample and hold adapter for a voltmeter, but it’s funky on these short duration CD signals.
      Thanks,
      Dave

      #279237
      crosbyman
      Participant

        Canada Member

        Mercury Marine Model 40 4 HP (1 Cylinder) Outboard Motor Parts by All Engine Parts & Diagrams (marineengine.com)

        https://wrcoutboards.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/The-Phase-Maker-CDI.pdf

        clean the GC  cavity and  water drain hole !!  see pic.   full of hardned  sand and gunk on mine

        great little engine…sips fuel  trolls all day.     Make certain the small  top side idle tube is clean !!  see diagram

        it may be a phase maker ignition.works very well   point will look dirty but their  work fine by MAKING   vs  the usual breaking of the contact point.

        if so….. book says  DO NOT USE THE KILL BUTTON IF  BUCKET TESTING  it can kill the coil  !!!

         if no kill button  you kill it  with the choke   button. 

        what  problem do you have… no sparks ??

        you can download a maintenance book for $5.95   covers all merc  from 1966 to 1975 .   3.9hp up to  6 cyl

        Service Manual Vault recommended FREE downloads

        I don’t see it anymore on the site  but contact them . I had mine locally printed

        Mercury Mariner 4 Horsepower Stator 174-3996 174-4469 174-4470 | Outboardignition.com

         

         

         

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        #279256
        dave-bernard
        Participant

          US Member

          No spark is usually the white insulator replace it.

          #279258
          outbdnut2
          Participant

            US Member

            Crosbyman and Dave B. – Thanks for all the info! Just what I needed! I’ll be digging into the motor again today or tomorrow.

            Dave Stanton (Outbdnut2)

            #279260
            crosbyman
            Participant

              Canada Member

              EzPartsWeb (sysonline.com)  

                use archive 815749 for  detail parts 

              btw…. seems I read the capacitor must be 800v tolerance if you  have to change it

               

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              #279261
              outbdnut2
              Participant

                US Member

                Everything checks out with an Ohmmeter, except the secondary of the coil is an open circuit. It’s a brown coil. I have a one year newer (1971) 7.5 HP parts motor with one good green coil. Can I swap the green coil for the brown one? or is the CD voltage pulse incompatible with the green coil?

                Dave

                #279263
                crosbyman
                Participant

                  Canada Member

                   

                  are you testing directly on the coil’S HV output pin ?

                   

                  have  you  verified the  boot’s   internal connection …to the plug wire

                  try testing the coil secondary with a VERY SMALL needle  stuck in the plug wire … maybe the problem is just  at the boot end of things.

                  reseal  the  small pin prick with a dab of silicon.

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                  #279265
                  outbdnut2
                  Participant

                    US Member

                    Thanks for the insight. I tested with a screwdriver held into the output tower of the coil and a test lead on the screwdriver – I can see that the screwdriver is touching the internal brass connector I’m holding it against with pressure. I removed the coil and put the other lead right on the now -exposed ground wire. I also checked the spark plug wire and continuity is great. I’m a retired electrical engineer with a lot of TV stereo repair background in a past life, so I understand making good contact and eliminating bad wires, etc. The coil secondary is open no matter how hard I try to insure a good connection, one of the green coils from the parts motor is also open, and physically damaged; and the other green one tests fine with the same test method. Can I use the green one? Otherwise I have a couple more parts motors I can dig out and see what they have for coils, but I have to move several motors to get to them. I also understand that resistance check is not a perfect test for coils because spark could be jumping inside then through bad insulation.
                    Dave

                    #279266
                    crosbyman
                    Participant

                      Canada Member

                      green brown black   hard to say     maybe Dave Bernard can help out  specs wise

                      check for  similar part#s on different years    maybe the color was just a diff. manufacturing process with the internals  being the same .

                       

                      some cheap ones (in pairs for <60$)  on Amazon…. can’t say about the specs but they physicallly look the same .

                       

                       

                       

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                      #279271
                      outbdnut2
                      Participant

                        US Member

                        The part number is close ,but not quite the same on the brown and green coils. Note that in the manual pages you posted, Crosbyman, it gives slightly different resistance readings for “Green” , and “Brown”, while red and brown coils are the same readings. These values are all in the same testing info tables, so there is a difference. The green has slightly higher resistance readings for the primary, and 5 to 6 times the resistance in the secondary. I’m thinking a lot more secondary turns will step the spark voltage up higher, but I don’t want to risk an artifact getting back on the primary and killing the stator. The green one was probably made for a different pulse voltage from the capacitor.

                        I’ll check my other parts motors for a brown one, and if I can’t find one, I’ll probably try the green coil.. This motor is not worth $180 for a new coil. No aftermarket ones show up.

                        As long as I’m on here again, I’ll “FYI-mention” that the capacitor must be potted up in the stator, as it’s not there and does not show on the parts list or exploded view.

                        Some day , maybe I’ll learn to tell people “no” when they have a Mercury to work on – they take way more of my time than OMCs and Champions.
                        Dave

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