May 27, 2017 at 12:57 pm #7140
I’ve been asked to look at one of these and know little about them. As the weight of these approaches 300 I have little desire to mess with it.
From looking at marineengine.com it appears these all have the electric/hydraulic gearcase. I understand these default to forward gear in the absence of power to either solenoid. Can anybody advise what to look for here? What fails? Do these work with the same controls as the straight electric lower units?
I’m ignorant on the ignition too, except that very little seems to be available. What to check for here?
Can these be runners for somebody who want to? (not me). Have heard the guzzle fuel.
Thanks for any guidance.May 27, 2017 at 1:11 pm #58449
Yes, that would be the Hydro-Electric shift. And yes, it defaults to forward. And no, the shift switch in the control is different than the Electric Shift. Opinions vary, but I say the Hydro Electric is a good system—if in good condition. Clean oil is absolutely essential and if you let it get dirty and gritty, it is repair city time. That shift switch is getting rare and $$$$$. And of course look out for rotted wiring.
The ignition system was state of the art in it’s day. But not very good by today’s standards. It has breaker points, set at .009-.010". And lubricate the anti-reverse cut-out ring sparingly with EP grease. The ignition amplifier is easy to trash by improper practices. Good battery connections are vital.
Aside from all that, they were very good motors in their day.May 27, 2017 at 2:59 pm #58456
Would appreciate any pointers/tutorial to checking out ignition without damaging it.
Also, info on lubes to use is somewhat confusing and contradictory. Any guidance on a suitable generic product?May 27, 2017 at 3:37 pm #58461
Basic test: Disconnect and unbolt the coil and remove the spark wire from the distributor cap (it unscrews from the cap–rotate the whole coil & wire). Then remount and reconnect the coil and rig up a spark gap off that threaded spark wire terminal. Disconnect the wire going between the timer base/breaker plate and amplifier. Turn on ignition key and lightly brush the amplifier wire against a metal grounded surface. You should get sparks across your spark gap. If you do, everything is working up to that point. Proceed with pulling the flywheel and distributor cap and tend to the points. They don’t burn out like regular points, but the gap changes from wear. And the cut-out ring wears and the metal dust from it contaminates everything.May 27, 2017 at 3:49 pm #58463
Gearcase lube is Evinrude/BRP "Premium Blend". Originally was "Type C". Still sold as Type C by aftermarket suppliers.
50:1 Fuel mix
Topics: 29May 27, 2017 at 8:17 pm #58472
Thanks Frank – I have added that to my list of wiring diagrams . . . 🙂
May 27, 2017 at 8:54 pm #58473
Thanks, Frank. Will study the wiring diag. It doesn’t look overwhelming. I can probably find it somewhere, but if you happen to have the shift switch diagram……
AlanMay 27, 2017 at 10:07 pm #58477
Just 3 terminals on the bottom of it. The wires shown above go to it. Electrically, it sends 12V to the green wire for neutral and to BOTH green and blue wires for reverse. No voltage to anything defaults to forward.May 28, 2017 at 4:15 am #58499
The motor is an 85ESL72R (=1972). The control box does not seem to be the one shown on Marineengine for this motor. The shape is different (rectangular) the throttle friction screw is on the back rather than the top, and the handle is different, with what seems like a momentary rocker switch connected to a three wire cable–I think this is for tilt/trim. And the box has two push-pull cables. So I think this is a control box for a mechanical shift motor and not usable with this motor. (??) Looks to me as if there is a pushbutton shift box for this motor type, and also the one where the shift switch is integrated into the throttle lever, but this is neither…..
US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 29May 28, 2017 at 12:17 pm #58507
Yeah, don’t know what box you are describing, might be something home made….Post a picture if you like…
And yes, the Evinrude version of this hydro electric control box has a single lever with three push buttons, the key and choke switch are incorporated into the control box. The Johnson version of this control is a single lever white box with an internal shift switch that is toggled by the control lever, the key and choke switch are incorporated into the box as well.
There was a single lever binnacle mount control box made as an OMC accessory as well, but it requires a separate boat wiring harness where the key and choke switch are dash mounted.
Again, why don’t you post pictures of what you have.May 28, 2017 at 12:31 pm #58510
You pretty much got it figured out. That control is not for this motor. And Evinrude used push buttons while Johnson used a switch on the bottom of the single lever throttle control. The Evinrude and Johnson versions are totally interchangeable (as long as they are for HydroElectric).
Beware of look-alike switches that are for Electric Shift.May 28, 2017 at 12:33 pm #58511
I didn’t see fleetwin’s post as I was composing mine. Well at least we agreeMay 28, 2017 at 12:55 pm #58513
OK, I think I do get it for the most part. Lots of yak-yak on the net about using a headlight switch, or even an ordinary SPDT toggle switch with a diode, to shift these motors. That would be easy enough to do, but has anybody figured out how to interlock the shifting with the throttle? Accidental shifting into reverse at high speed would likely not be good for the machinery or the residents of the boat. There should be some way to interlock the shifting with the existing functionality of a common mechanical shift control box, but offhand I don’t see how.
US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 29May 28, 2017 at 3:27 pm #58521quote amuller:
Sorry, but I would definitely avoid using some home made control box set up…Too much at stake here. First, the possibility for hurting yourself or others. Then, the strong possibility for damaging that gearcase.
Keep your eyes open, you will find a decent control box. Just be sure to get the control box with the big black plug. The yellow or red plugs will not work on your engine. I would test the shift switch with an ohm meter before paying too much for a used box that is almost worthless without a functioning shift switch.
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