Topic: 1970 85 hp V4 – Page 2 – Antique Outboard Motor Club,Inc

This topic has 65 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 6 years, 10 months ago by fleetwin.

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May 28, 2017 at 12:17 pm #58507
fleetwin
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US Member - 2 Years
Yeah, don’t know what box you are describing, might be something home made….Post a picture if you like…
And yes, the Evinrude version of this hydro electric control box has a single lever with three push buttons, the key and choke switch are incorporated into the control box. The Johnson version of this control is a single lever white box with an internal shift switch that is toggled by the control lever, the key and choke switch are incorporated into the box as well.
There was a single lever binnacle mount control box made as an OMC accessory as well, but it requires a separate boat wiring harness where the key and choke switch are dash mounted.
Again, why don’t you post pictures of what you have.
May 28, 2017 at 12:31 pm #58510
frankr
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US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
You pretty much got it figured out. That control is not for this motor. And Evinrude used push buttons while Johnson used a switch on the bottom of the single lever throttle control. The Evinrude and Johnson versions are totally interchangeable (as long as they are for HydroElectric).
Beware of look-alike switches that are for Electric Shift.
May 28, 2017 at 12:33 pm #58511
frankr
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I didn’t see fleetwin’s post as I was composing mine. Well at least we agree
May 28, 2017 at 12:55 pm #58513
amuller
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OK, I think I do get it for the most part. Lots of yak-yak on the net about using a headlight switch, or even an ordinary SPDT toggle switch with a diode, to shift these motors. That would be easy enough to do, but has anybody figured out how to interlock the shifting with the throttle? Accidental shifting into reverse at high speed would likely not be good for the machinery or the residents of the boat. There should be some way to interlock the shifting with the existing functionality of a common mechanical shift control box, but offhand I don’t see how.
May 28, 2017 at 3:27 pm #58521
fleetwin
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US Member - 2 Years
quote amuller:

OK, I think I do get it for the most part. Lots of yak-yak on the net about using a headlight switch, or even an ordinary SPDT toggle switch with a diode, to shift these motors. That would be easy enough to do, but has anybody figured out how to interlock the shifting with the throttle? Accidental shifting into reverse at high speed would likely not be good for the machinery or the residents of the boat. There should be some way to interlock the shifting with the existing functionality of a common mechanical shift control box, but offhand I don’t see how.

Sorry, but I would definitely avoid using some home made control box set up…Too much at stake here. First, the possibility for hurting yourself or others. Then, the strong possibility for damaging that gearcase.
Keep your eyes open, you will find a decent control box. Just be sure to get the control box with the big black plug. The yellow or red plugs will not work on your engine. I would test the shift switch with an ohm meter before paying too much for a used box that is almost worthless without a functioning shift switch.
May 28, 2017 at 3:51 pm #58523
frankr
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US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
Ok, here is how I shifted them in the test tank. All you need is a common DPDT toggle switch. Consult your lawyer before doing it on a boat. Also, the bottom view of an Evinrude push button switch.

upload pictures

windows 7 screenshot
May 28, 2017 at 3:56 pm #58524
frankr
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Before you ask, yes, using the toggle switch, it goes directly between forward & reverse. You can do that with the push button switch too.
In fact that was an advertised feature (for easy docking). But not really, the clutch dog in the lower unit goes through neutral.
May 28, 2017 at 5:03 pm #58529
amuller
Participant
Bought Crestliner Dane (pretty solid, from what I can see, welded aluminum runabout), decent trailer, motor as discussed, for $200. Haven’t a clue about the overall condition of the motor, but if no good I can hardly complain. Rig seems to have only the usual old-boat problems of bodged wiring and not sitting properly on trailer. Even has a lifting kicker bracket for the get-home auxiliary. My long-term plan is a Homelite/Bearcat when I find one at bottom-feeder price. Meanwhile, if this v4 doesn’t run, I’ll try one of my 40 hp big twins. Probably a little weak for a 700 lb boat, but …

Gearcase had maybe a tablespoon of water in it. Lube came out black but doesn’t seem noticeably gritty or contaminated. Is black normal?

There are two black rubbery sleeves near where the solenoid leads emerge from the leg. Are these some sort of disconnect?

This is the control box that came with boat. (Seller was open about it not being compatible with motor.) Disregarding other issues, could this be used to operate the throttle?
May 28, 2017 at 6:19 pm #58534
amuller
Participant
One more question and I promise to shut up for a while. Can I run this motor on muffs like a stern drive?

Alan
May 28, 2017 at 6:43 pm #58537
frankr
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US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
The throttle part would work, but that’s about all. It has the wrong elect cable.

Darkish oil is pretty normal. But dirty oil is black also. We’re talking about microscopic dirt here, not chunks. The micro stuff is what screws it up.

Slide those rubber sleeves back to expose the wire disconnects. Make sure you tie something onto the wires to aid in pulling them back up when reinstalling

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1970 85 hp V4

GET IN TOUCH