Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1970 9.5hp tiller friction adj. free spins :-(
- This topic has 11 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 3 years, 9 months ago by frankr.
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June 16, 2020 at 4:24 pm #205922
I have 9.5hp in which the central 7/16 adjustment bolt head to control tiller friction is free spinning and won’t make the tiller stop going side to side
It feels like the bolt threads or the adjustment nut is stripped. Doesn’t look goodβ¦. π
is there a way to fix this without separating the powerhead and the lower housing to easily access the friction parts .
can I just try to drop the lower housing halves and not remove the powerhead ??
thanks for comments
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June 16, 2020 at 4:55 pm #205924Relax, it isn’t as bad as it seems. Completely remove the screw, then the arc-shaped friction plate. Now put in new fiber friction pads, one below and one above the arc as you do. Reinstall the screw and metal washer. The problem is the fiber pads are worn out or missing, and the nut that the screw goes into is lifting out of the pocket that holds it.
Written from memory, without a motor in front of me.
June 16, 2020 at 5:13 pm #205928phewβ¦β¦ happy days are here again π thanks Frank I will give it a try
$10 a pad ?? anything special about them of would hardware store stuff do just as well even if they need to be replaced in a year or 2 or 3 β¦. ??
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June 16, 2020 at 5:17 pm #205930I think you could get creative with those pads – whatever you use, maybe rub them with a bit of graphite to cut down wear.
DaveJune 16, 2020 at 5:38 pm #205931They are similar to brake lining stuff I guess for that price you can get creative. How ’bout a piece of oak? Not serious, buy hey, who knows?
June 16, 2020 at 8:16 pm #205939I picked up some fiber washers at the HW store tonight β¦.i’ll just install and see what happens β¦
not my motor & I don’t charge anything anyway
redid his kill switch wiring (cracked and brittle) fixed the stripped threads on the chineese fuel pump cover
thanks all for comments
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June 21, 2020 at 7:58 pm #206334update june 21…
nothing works π can’t unscrew the tiller friction adjusting bolt because the whole assembly including the spring turns
tried removing the half-moon friction bar no help
it looks like the nut is still on the threads because the spring tensioner did not fall down the hole β¦ otherwise the bolt would have lifted out
is there a way to disassemble the tiller pivot shaft and transom bracket without taking this engine apart ????
that seems the only way to pull out the tiller tension adjustment shaft, spring , nut, and friction pads π π
thanks for any moral support
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- This reply was modified 3 years, 10 months ago by crosbyman.
June 21, 2020 at 8:55 pm #206339Hm-m-m-m- got me to thinking. Without much result, I’m afraid. But I’ve replaced a multitude of those friction pads without tearing anything apart. But so long ago. About all I can say is the threads consist of a square nut sitting in a square pocket. Missing washers or friction pads allow the nut to be lifted out of the pocket and spin. Somehow, you need to get the assembly pushed down even a little bit to catch the nut into the pocket. I can’t remember ever not being able to do it. But my forgetter works too well sometimes. I’d hate to see you go to such extreme measures as to tear it all apart. As extreme a it sounds, how about cutting the slotted arc piece in half and sliding it out of the screw-spring-nut assy? Needless to say, it would require a replacement part, but still better than a major tear-down. Just thinking out loud here, sorry.
June 21, 2020 at 10:45 pm #206348ok that is an optionβ¦.If I cut the arc bar close to the bolt hole I could try to spread it apart and clear it from the main bolt head so that would allow the main friction bolt to lift out
butβ¦.. there is danger that it will not pass through the adjustment hole ” window” because I can’t take out the top locking tab washeri’ll take a closer look at it
I’ll try pressing down to engage the nut in the recess
I mayβ¦ even drill a side hole .. or two in the lower housing just about where the nut is and try to jam the nut with a nail or something allowing me to unscrew the bolt …I can always JBweld that hole later after reassembly with new friction pads
If I don’t get to fix this the owner will have to get himself a few cedar shingles π to keep his motor straight
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June 22, 2020 at 5:25 am #206368Not to fear, that washer will pass through that “window” as you call it. It would be coming up through there with the screw anyway (if you could unscrew it from the nut)
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