Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1972 Evinrude Lightwin 4hp
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fleetwin.
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August 5, 2023 at 10:37 am #278817
I’m working on a 1972 Evinrude Lightwin 4hp for a friend, and having a lot of trouble getting it to run. The motor will run with starting fluid, but doesn’t seem to pull fuel from the carburetor. When I checked the reed valves there was a small gap between the reed valve and the reed seat. Is this normal, or should the reed valves seat perfectly?
Thanks
August 5, 2023 at 11:59 am #278818The reeds should seat flat, and using starting fluid can
be hard on the reeds, wash away the cylinder lubricant, etc.
I prefer to use fogging oil in a spray can.Prepare to be boarded!
August 5, 2023 at 6:15 pm #278823Thanks for the reply!
August 6, 2023 at 5:38 pm #278892No reed valves seal perfectly… I really kinda doubt they are to blame. The engine fires briefly on staring fluid, so that says to me there is a fuel supply/delivery issue. Have you had the carb apart? Perhaps the float needle is stuck closed.
Try this:
Connect the fuel line and pump it up. Now, loosen the high speed needle packing nut and remove the needle from the carb? Fuel should come dribbling out. If not, fuel isn’t making it up to the carb, or the inlet needle is stuck. Try pulling the fuel line off the carb, then pumping the fuel bulb. Fuel should come pouring out of the disconnected fuel line.
If fuel flows out of the fuel line, then it is a carb issue.
If no fuel flows from the fuel line while pumping the bulb, then you have some sort of delivery issue, probably the tank/line/connector.
August 7, 2023 at 10:07 pm #278938Wow, I totally agree about the reed valves, (wasn’t going to push it :). Thanks for the carb info, and yes I’m still thinking something about the carb is to blame.
Fuel pump is pumping, getting fuel in the bowl now that I replaced the cork float which was cracked and not opening the float needle. The reason I asked about the reeds is because it acts like it’s not pulling fuel from the carb good enough to run on just gas. Yes, I have cleaned the carb (many times), new float, needle valve, needle seat, vent ports, gaskets…, new carb rebuild kit, (along with)… new coils, plugs, points & condensers. Spark tester shows nearly 3/8 ” spark jump. Compression is a little over 90 lbs, on both cylinders. Flywheel has good magnets, and the flywheel key is not sheared at all. Set the plugs to .035 and the points to .020 Using new gas with 50:1 oil mixture.
When my neighbor asked me to work on it, he said “it runs good, but was getting hot”. I removed the lower unit and turned the lower drive shaft using a battery drill with the water pump under water, and the water pressure seemed to be OK. So naturally, I changed the water pump impeller, and totally disassembled the entire block to clean all of the water passages in the head, intake and exhaust manifold. This is when I noticed two of the intake reed valves were not fully closed and were not aligned properly. Aligned the reeds and reassembled the engine. With all new gaskets (and thin film of REINZOSIL sealing compound) on the above parts, the engine does run on short burst of starting fluid, (and yes, I know starting fluid spray has no oil). It did try to run very shortly just one time on just gas, but I had it a full throttle and fully choked. I have tried every possible adjustment with the RICH/LEAN and IDLE on the carb. I just ordered an ultrasonic carb cleaning tank and cleaning fluid. Hope this fixes something I missed or just cannot see in the carb. Any advice is appreciated, and I’ll post if something changes. THANKS
August 8, 2023 at 7:20 am #278948for fuel to be sucked in the crankcase from the carb it must have sufficient vacum during the uptroke of the pistons . if anything is causiing a vacum leak other than via the carb
fuel pull in will be limited.
Test it by putting your hand on the carb face while a friend pulls the starter rope. you should feel the vacum.
have you pulled the dime size plug on top off the carb to clean out the 3 small drip holes of the LS circuit. ??? the side channel leading to the top of the carb is very narrow.
see diagrams of a different carb.. and your’s . Small carb’s side channel works the same way.
make certain the side channel is 100% and carb cleaner makes it to the top chamber. . with the LS needle out carb cleaner should exit the needle passage also when injected in the side channel
if you plug the needle threaded openning with a finger carb cleaner should exit freely in the drip chamber.
replace and seal the top plug rim with finger nail polish (any color works 🙂 )
make certain you have the proper carb gasket and the side channel is not obstructed stopping fuel flow up to the drip chamber.
Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂
August 8, 2023 at 10:31 pm #278995I worked on one of these motors once! After a bunch of detective work I found a wire plugin that the small connectors inside were bent over and both wires we connected together. Very easy to over look. It sure ran better after fixing that plug in!
dale
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August 9, 2023 at 7:11 am #279003OK, so you had the carburetor apart a few times. You mentioned using some sort of sealer on those intake gaskets, which may cause an issue, those gaskets should be installed “dry”. The two intake gaskets are different, and can not be mixed up. There will be an internal air leak if the gasket meant for the front of the reed plate is used on the back (crankcase side). So, you may want to order two new gaskets (remember they have different part numbers), clean the reed plate of all sealer, and replace those gaskets.
So, you are saying that gas/oil is getting into the carburetor bowl, but the carb doesn’t seem to be able to deliver it to the engine. Perhaps you don’t have the needle valves set to their proper positions.
The high speed needle (lower one), should be backed out 3/4 turn after being gently seated. The low speed needle (upper one) should be backed out about 1.5 turns after being gently seated. You mentioned replacing the float, did you replace the inlet needle/seat as well? Sometimes those inlet needles get stuck and don’t open properly. Did you use OEM carb parts, or aftermarket? Oftentimes that aftermarket stuff doesn’t fit properly jamming the float so it doesn’t move freely inside the carburetor. Once again, you have confirmed that fuel is flowing into the carburetor bowl??
August 11, 2023 at 12:43 pm #279060Thanks fot the reply Fleetwin,
I only use a super thin coat of sealing compound on some of these old gaskets just to make sure of no leakage. Not sure what issue this could cause, but you very well may be correct. Front and rear reed block gaskets are correct (but good info). I had both needle valves set exactly as you stated but still not running. I am waiting on an ultrasonic carb cleaning tank to clean all that I cannot see or get to. Thank, again.
August 11, 2023 at 12:47 pm #279061Thanks fot the reply labrador-guy, I don’t think this motor has any wire plugins.
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