Home Forum Ask A Member 1973 Wards Sea King 7hp Neutral Clutch

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  • #1754
    Buccaneer
    Participant

      US Member

      I’m putting my 1973 Wards Sea King 7hp (with the Clinton engine) back
      together after cleaning and inspection, and I’m not understanding the
      neutral clutch shift lever set-up, or the clutch is broke perhaps.
      I have a Clinton outboard manual, but some of the parts appear
      different on mine.

      Photo 1 shows the shift lever and what the manual is calling a "Shift Rod Limiter"
      http://www.grayhitandmiss.com/Outboards … ds7hp1.jpg

      Photo 2 is showing the "Neutral Clutch Cam" inside of the lower unit,
      just below where the powerhead bolts on.
      http://www.grayhitandmiss.com/Outboards … ds7hp2.jpg

      Photo 3 shows the top view of the set-up. The shift rod limiter
      end where the spring is, goes inside of a hole below the magneto.
      I presume this is just a tensioner to keep the shift lever in position.
      http://www.grayhitandmiss.com/Outboards … ds7hp3.jpg

      Photo 4 shows the neutral clutch on the bottom of the powerhead
      http://www.grayhitandmiss.com/Outboards … ds7hp4.jpg

      It appears that the shift lever clutch cam contacts the flat on the
      neutral clutch when the shift lever is in the appropriate position,
      but I don’t see how this does anything, as the shell of the clutch
      that the flat is attached to, spins freely in
      either direction by hand.
      The clutch assembly has an counter-clockwise "anti-spin" feature
      that works fine……. that is, the powerhead would only turn the
      driveshaft in the clockwise direction.

      Is something broke on this clutch?

      Also the Clinton parts diagram shows three different gaskets
      that go between the powerhead and lower unit.
      When I took it apart, there was only one. I see no need for
      three gaskets with different parts numbers.
      What’s up with that?

      Thanks for any help!
      Buccaneer

      Prepare to be boarded!

      #18120
      retiredoz
      Participant

        Yes, I’d say something’s broke. The shift cam is indeed a ‘catch’, intended to work sorta the same way the OMC/Gale motors or TNs work. I think the default is forward, and the snag loosens the spring for neutral. But it sounds like your ‘shell’ is detached from the spring.
        My K700 parts list only shows one gasket for the exhaust deflector. The shift rod limiter is intended to keep you from shifting at inappropriate RPMS too, I believe, besides acting as a detent.l

        #18125
        Buccaneer
        Participant

          US Member

          Retiredoz, thanks for your help.
          It makes sense about the shell attached to a spring.
          The three gaskets I have noted on the parts diagram
          are the ones in question. They all look like they’d go
          between the powerhead and L.U.
          The middle one’s part number is hard to read, so I’m not sure
          I have it labeled correctly.
          http://grayhitandmiss.com/Outboards/wards_gaskets.jpg
          Ideas on the gaskets appreciated!
          I’m not sure the clutch comes apart, but will have to look
          tomorrow.
          Thanks, Bucc

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          #18177
          Buccaneer
          Participant

            US Member

            Now that I know how this clutch works, it was obvious that the spring end
            was broken, and therefore not engaging the outer shell via a little notch
            in the shell’s bottom. I decided for now I’d put it together without the
            neutral clutch working so I could at least see if it’s going to run before
            I look for or invest in parts.
            I had the gear case attached to the lower unit twice and each time the
            prop doesn’t turn when I rotate the flywheel. I can’t believe I’m missing the
            clutch splines with the drive shaft. Of course, It’s a pain getting the water
            pump engaged in the discharge tube in the mid section.
            When I had the neutral clutch in my hand, it appeared that it would turn
            the prop fine, even though the spring inside was broken.
            Any ideas? I was thinking of finding a long wooden dowel rod and tap
            it into the clutch splines and see what happens when I turn the flywheel,
            but couldn’t find anything suitable in the garage…… maybe tomorrow.

            Prepare to be boarded!

            #18205
            retiredoz
            Participant

              I’d throw it together and see if it’ll fire up. It’ll be OK to run it briefly without the water pump – it wouldn’t be operating in neutral anywhoo ? There is a spring in that clutch somewhere, so it may require a few more RPMs to engage the driveshaft ? It’s been a long time, but I coulda sworn the default on the clutch is forward. My service manual says if the outer shell is detached from the spring it means it won’t go into neutral (which appears to be your case) or if the spring is broken internally, it means it won’t engage the driveshaft. In either case, the remedy is to replace the clutch, and without sounding facetious, good luck. So far the only motors I’ve found to use that setup Are the J700 and K700 models produced ’70-’75.

              #18230
              Buccaneer
              Participant

                US Member

                Seen a clutch on Ebay $40 ish dollars with shipping. Will see if it runs
                first and go from there! Thanks. Didn’t get a chance to work on it today.
                Minimum, I’ll probably have to find a new diaphram for the fuel pump
                before I can see if it runs. Also, It has a single line Chrysler style connector
                which I have no tank for, so will probably temporarily hook up my Mercury
                tank and hose directly to the fuel pump inlet.
                Thanks!

                Prepare to be boarded!

                #18474
                Buccaneer
                Participant

                  US Member

                  I set up the Sea King in the test barrel with a gravity feed lawnmower tank to the original impulse fuel pump,
                  and had it running in about six pulls. I was surprised how well it ran, and especially how well it idled down.
                  It did pull start a little stiff I thought, but perhaps it would be easier if the neutral clutch wasn’t disabled.
                  Now that I know it runs, perhaps I’ll buy an impeller to cool the exhaust housing…… had my doubts if the
                  old impeller was pumping. Maybe I’ll even come across a working neutral clutch.
                  Nice to see my $20 purchase wasn’t a complete loss!

                  Prepare to be boarded!

                  #18481
                  retiredoz
                  Participant

                    Well, there ya go ! Lots of those temperamental little one-lungers turn out to have lots of life left. I suspect many were bought by people with sparse knowledge of outboards, and got parked as soon as anything went awry, like a failing clutch ?
                    Ebay is a good source for impellers, and the Chrysler/Force fittings are readily available. And in spite of the so-so press these motors tend to get, it’s hard to beat the power/weight ratio !

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