Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1974 Evinrude 9.9 won’t idle at low RPMs, need help
- This topic has 56 replies, 14 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 7 months ago by fleetwin.
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May 1, 2016 at 9:20 pm #35797
Sounds nice. I am going to have to try that Pine Sol. I noticed you were turning the slow speed adjust counter-clockwise (enriching it). I would let it warm up for a couple of minutes and then bring it to as slow of idle as you can. Then turn that dial clockwise 1/8 of a turn (more lean). Give the motor 10 seconds to respond. If the idle increases, slow it down and turn the dial 1/8 turn more. Keep doing this until the motor coughs and wants to stall or does stall. Then turn that needle 1/4 turn counter-clockwise and leave it alone. You can remove the knob and then reinstall the knob with it pointed down, in the middle and you should never have to touch it again. Your carb would then be set perfectly. providing the proper fuel to air ratio.
One reminder on starting the motor. You tend to grab the starter and just quickly pull it. You want to pull slowly at first until the starter pawl (plastic black gear that grabs the flywheel) rises up and engages the flywheel and then pull as hard as you can. If you pull really hard BEFORE the pawl engages the flywheel you will start to wear down those teeth on that plastic starter and the motor will get more and more difficult to start.
I can’t say what your brother in-laws motor needs but very rarely do they ever complain after a carb cleaning. You’re an expert at that now so give it a 72 hour soak and lots of compressed air and see if things improve. Afterwards the carb needle is set the same way as yours is as outlined above. Just so you know the spark plugs are different for that motor then the one you have. It likes the Champion plugs because it uses a CDI ignition system as opposed to the points and condensers in your motor. The plugs for the 1981 15 Hp are Champion QL77JC4.
May 2, 2016 at 12:41 pm #35834Glad you got the 74 working correctly, that carb mixing pocket surely was a mess! Did you ever find/remove the pesky needle valve seal? That crusty mixing pocket sure looked like the problem area though…..
The 1981 Evinrude in your other video is surely a keeper! Looks like a low hour fresh water engine. OMC had perfected these engines by 1981. The only real issues for the 81 models were a misdesigned upper water tube grommet that creates expensive cooling headaches along with the usual throttle control headaches.
Hard to tell just what is going on with the 81, sounds lean, but he didn’t really feather the choke much to confirm/deny a lean condition. Did he try enrichening the mixture a bit? Could be a fuel supply issue/fuel pump/air leak, the fuel tank is way below the engine while running in that tank which can really tax a marginal fuel pump, inlet air leaks/restrictions. He might try having an assistant pump the fuel bulb while the engine is running to help evaluate fuel deliverly problems. Again, please do NOT disassemble that fuel pump, except to remove the plastic inlet cover to check the mesh filter. These engines can be a little cold blooded, don’t expect it to idle real well until it has had a chance to warm up a bit.
Again, start with the basics, compression/spark/fuel. Is the fuel/oil supply fresh? Is this engine new to you guys, do you know any of the service history? When was the last time it ran OK?May 2, 2016 at 4:09 pm #35845I believe I read that the fuel tank should be no lower than 20" below the carb. I would suppose that to be exact ,that the bottom of the fuel pickup tube should be no more than 20" below the fuel pump.
"Some people want to know how a watch works, others just want to know what time it is"
Robbie RobertsonMay 2, 2016 at 4:13 pm #35846When did OMC change the design on the upper water tube grommet,what years had the better one?
"Some people want to know how a watch works, others just want to know what time it is"
Robbie RobertsonMay 2, 2016 at 8:59 pm #35851quote fleetwin:Glad you got the 74 working correctly, that carb mixing pocket surely was a mess! Did you ever find/remove the pesky needle valve seal? That crusty mixing pocket sure looked like the problem area though…..There actually was no needle valve seal in the bottom (I was able to use the camera and flash of my phone to catch a glimpse of the inside of that deep hole)
Thanks for the tips on the ’81 as well. Myself, I got a 1961 Evinrude 18 hp I’m working on next. If anyone has any references/videos or tips before I get started on that, I’ve already learned a ton from this thread. I’m excited to give it another try!
May 3, 2016 at 2:21 am #35871Here’s a bunch of generic service manuals to start. 😉
May 3, 2016 at 4:32 pm #35888quote pugetsoundboater:When did OMC change the design on the upper water tube grommet,what years had the better one?1979 was the first year for the bad grommet. Unfortunately, the part number for the good grommets used on older engines supercedes to the newer bad grommet! So, I usually clean up and reuse original grommets on older engines rather than replace them with the newer bad grommet.
In 1985, the design of the water tube and grommet was changed. An improvement over the bad grommet but still had some problems in salt water. The latest water tube kits I have seen are improved again because the water tube is slightly taller keeping the grommet from being unsupported and getting crushed.
The problems I have mentioned are usually not an issue for fresh water engines. -
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