Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1975 Mercury 7 1/2 HP Spark Plugs
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outbdnut2.
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October 26, 2023 at 7:38 pm #282090
I worked over a neighbor’s 1975 7-1/2 HP Mercury that had big time flooding issues. After rebuilding the carb, It would start and rev up for about 1 or 2 seconds and quit. The surface gap spark plugs were wet. I dried them off 3 times and the same thing kept happening – maybe because of a lot of gas flooded into the crankcase?? …..then…on a whim….I put a old used pair of J6Js in it and it started right up and kept running. I ran it 20 minutes in a tank, in neutral at a fast idle, and it ran good. Then, with it warmed up, I tried to adjust the low speed mixture screw for a good slow idle, and it kept quitting, although I had taken all the idle passage parts apart in the carb and cleaned them well. The float is set to spec (I have a 1975-1978 Factory shop manual). I’ve had trouble getting a couple other similar year models idle adjusted in the past, but always worked it out. I still have the J6Js in it, and have no trouble restarting it now. The others I ‘ve worked on, I put on a boat and managed to adjust the idle, with some difficulty, with it in gear, warmed up, pushing the boat, and with the surface gap plugs.. My boats and dock are put away for the winter, but I’d like to get this motor back to my neighbor, so would like to adjust idle in the tank.
Is this a model where surface gap spark plugs sometimes don’t work well? If I put in new surface gap plugs (I’ll have to buy some) will the idle be easier to adjust? Should I put in new J6Cs instead? Any tips or tricks for adjusting the idle?
I’ve not had this issue adjusting idle on other brands.
Thx,
DaveOctober 27, 2023 at 12:46 am #282093My feeling is that the surface gap plugs require more volts/amps to fire reliably. Hence they are typically paired with the electronic ignition systems like that 1975 Mercury would have. So; they should work if the ignition system is healthy.
Last year I was working on a 20 HP Mercury with that same ignition. Surface gap plugs would barely run the engine but the J6J’s would do better. Turned out my coils were bad. I replaced them and then the surface gap plugs worked fine.
Would it have continued to run fine with the old coils and the 6J6’s? Who knows……
October 27, 2023 at 9:14 am #282096look up the engine model by serial # in marine.com to confirm the suggested plug type.
Mercury Marine Outboard Motor Parts by Engine Model (marineengine.com)
on the 7.5 I see some ser#s with conventional gap plugs yet my 1970’s little 4.0 hp uses surface gap plugs and runs all day long idling without a hickup.
https://maxrules.com/oldmercs/timing/55.pdf
Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂
October 27, 2023 at 7:51 pm #282111Thanks guys for the info! I have worked on several similar Mercurys with surface gap plugs that worked fine, except I had one that when I got the idle right, it would not restart when warm without using the choke, even with the idle adjusted on the rich side. I didn’t try J6’s in that one because the owner was fine with choking it each time he started it.
This owner of the 7-1/2 I posted about can’t afford new coils, and I’m out of good coils from parts motors, so I’ll leave it with some new J6Cs. Knowing this guy, I doubt he will ever even use the motor!
DaveOctober 29, 2023 at 1:26 pm #282126outbnut2, The best way to check outboard performance is on a boat. Winter in the north, we have to use a test tank. The best is if we could afford a factory style outboard test tank, with test props, that would be ideal. Did you use two separate inline spark testers when running motor, to make sure that you are not losing spark, at any time. When you rebuilt carb, initial idle needle should be 1.5 times out from lightly seated. Motor should start, let warm up, check RPM at idle, should be around 500-550 rpm in forward gear. Adjust carb, turning clockwise until motor runs lean, back out 1 turn counterclockwise. If engine hesitates during acceleration, carb is adjusted to lean, readjust carb 1/8 turn counterclockwise at a time, test motor for clean acceleration, full throttle to clean engine, then back down to idle. A tachometer is a must for tuning any engine. Doesn’t take much movement of throttle to come off of idle circuit to be running in high speed circuit. That’s what makes it so hard sometimes to adjust idle circuit, that’s where a tachometer does it’s job. The important thing is, make sure engine is in forward gear when adjusting carb or timing. I’ve got 3 of these mercs, 4hp, 7.5hp, 9.8hp, in my book, that’s the best fishing engine on the market. As far as spark plugs, I ran both spark plugs, surface gap, and conventional, both ran good. Seems to me I read someplace, if you ran these motors trolling all day they suggested using Champion J6J, instead of the surface gap plug, for running better, if you liked to troll. Gene.
October 30, 2023 at 3:42 pm #282149Thanks, necks, for the info. I’ve fixed several of these 7.5s and 9.8s for friends and neighbors and I agree – best way to adjust idle is on a boat with it warmed up and in gear, but I get them running initially in a tank so I know they will start on a boat. I have a 1975 to 1978 factory shop manual, so have all the procedures. The motor I posted about wouldn’t stay running with surface gap plugs, so I think I’ll leave the J6’s in it.
I can adjust idle on Johnsons/Evinrudes in a tank easily ( I have over 50 of them) , but a lot of those Mercurys fight me!
Dave -
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