Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1976 Chrysler 120 outboard help needed
- This topic has 19 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 4 years, 4 months ago by ko4nrbs.
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July 9, 2020 at 11:26 pm #208234
It looks identical to that from the top yea but searching FA474060 comes back to only fitting a 77-78 55hp so that’s where I’m confused.
The impeller for both of them is the same but the underside of the FK500060 looks different to mine.
Mine has a little notch I guess would be the best term where the impeller spins, where as the 500060 is completely round where the impeller spins.
July 9, 2020 at 11:45 pm #208235Don’t know – maybe a previous owner or service tech stuck the 474060 on there because they had one available. The parts diagram billw posted and a quick search I did all say 500060 is the correct part number so that’s what I’d use. Maybe a Chrysler expert can weigh in on this. When I worked in my uncle’s car service business in the 1970s, we always hated working on Chrysler cars because they often changed part numbers or part sizes/configurations on the same vehicle during a single year of production and it was always a PITA trying to figure out the correct part number to order in advance of taking the thing apart. Maybe their outboards were the same hassle??
Bob
1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."July 9, 2020 at 11:56 pm #208236I’ve been digging around and part number 474060 can be interchanged with part number 475060 which fits 55 to 75hp models and that’s a visual match to my part, and the base plate on a 75hp model is the same as my 76′ 120hp and in searching for that I found that kit number fk1033-1 fits 75hp through 135hp units from 75′ to 80′ with the split style gear case which is what I have.
I feel like it’s a case of mix and match because it fits and works or that Chrysler did indeed randomly change things up mid run without explanation.
July 10, 2020 at 12:12 am #208237Sounds like you found the right way to go. Keep us posted on progress as you bring this one back to life. I was never a big fan of them, but Chrysler outboards had a reputation as being simple and reliable. A guy I worked for years ago had a pair of 1971 120s on his offshore boat and swore he’d never run any other motor.
Bob
1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."July 10, 2020 at 1:05 am #208239It sat for 2 years and has 150psi on all 4 cylinders, it’s fairly clean minus the usual sludge crud that builds up from fuel and oil.
Only parts needed so far have been carb kits and water pump kit.
The prop cone broke partially on me today when I accidentally dropped it and the little linkage that adjusts the distributor has broken from age but I’m going to try to pin and epoxy it back together with some safety wire as well.
It’s on a matching 19ft Chrysler hydro- vee boat that needs some work but for $500 it’s a great starting point and well worth getting going again
July 10, 2020 at 5:36 am #208240We never did much with Chrysler stuff but the ones we did see were decent runners. Later, we became Force servicing dealers for awhile, mostly so we could have access to other areas of Mercury’s outboard stuff like training and parts. The Force 90 though 150 were Chrysler based and ran well. However, they were prone to power head failure from piston rings sticking and failing. If you held a Force piston in your hand, you almost couldn’t tell the difference between it and an OMC cross flow piston. OMC cross flow V engines were prone to the exact same type of grenading. I can’t tell from the diagram if your Chrysler has them or not; but I doubt it. Also, the Chrysler Force CDI ignitions were a little weak on service data and parts were hard to come by. When Mercury took over Force, getting rid of those old ignitions was the first….and best….thing they ever did.
Long live American manufacturing!
- This reply was modified 4 years, 4 months ago by billw.
July 10, 2020 at 3:09 pm #208267Mix the gas and oil THOROUGHLY, add an extra fuel filter to the fuel line, keep tabs on the gearcase lube, and use Seafoam now and then to keep it clean, it will last a long time. Many knocks against Chrysler/Force engines were caused by boating newbies who didn’t know, or care, how to do ANY of these things, used cheap bargain oil, too much or too little, basically ran them into an early grave. I took care of my Force 120, and it ran like a champ until I sold it due to hard times.
If you have too many, AND not enough, you're a collector.
July 10, 2020 at 3:31 pm #208268Once I get it running I’m going to fog it down to make sure theres oil everywhere it should be and then run pennzoil XLF TCW-III oil at 50:1 from then on.
And I agree on the newbie stuff, I see it way too often with jetskis and people either not knowing or the dealer just pushing products not meant for the particular application.
July 10, 2020 at 6:42 pm #208282Good news! I’ve found that the housing I have is indeed for a 55hp motor BUT if you take the seal and plastic washer for a 120 and use that in place of the smaller 55hp driveshaft seal the housings are the same.
So therefore the FK500060 is the most up to date part for the 76 120 and fits the 70 through 135 range motors. Unfortunately they’re $160 all by themselves so sourcing a full water pump kit will get you everything needed for the same price.
As previously stated though I’ll keep this updated on how it turns out once it’s cleaned up and running again.
July 11, 2020 at 10:08 am #208316Try Franz Marine. 816-966-8085
I have bought many Chrysler parts from him in the past for a 75 and 105 HP.
The Power Pack for those motors are very troublesome. I had 3 of them fail.
Bill
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