1976 Evinrude 15 hp 15604A Fuel pump?
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Thanks for the replies folks. That last post was my son Kevin logged in on my username. This is a motor that belongs to the mailman’s brother. He had taken it to another "Outboard Repair Shop" and that is where the fuel pump spring went. I didn’t know until yesterday that they had taken the pump apart, or that they admitted to loosing a small part. 🙄 They told the owner that it had broken reeds, so he picked it up and took it home. The mailman contacted Kevin about taking a look at it and doing the repairs that they shop said it needed. Kevin pulled the power head and the front of the engine to inspect the reeds, and they are fine. The water pump intake was plugged, and he cleaned the carburetor and checked the pump and other things. It is still in "exploded view" on the garage work bench, and I want him to contact the owner and ask what he wants to do. I am at the point of getting the "kit" which is in fact a new pump. If it was one for our rack, I may be more inclined to mess with it, but I want Kevin to learn that customer motors need to follow standard service practice and that means new gaskets and other things that could be worked around. He did several for hire jobs last year, and I encourage him in getting these jobs to gain experience and some spending money at the same time.
Thanks again!
Steve
Steve, I would consider getting the larger pump #438652, 18-7351. ME has the OEM on sale right now or Sierra is about $40 cheaper. The larger pump is easily rebuildable and pumps much better. It is used on the later 9.9/15 anyway for this reason. The OEM pump has a removable outlet nipple that can be changed for different sizes. I use it instead of the small pump all the time when space allows and that is most of the time. Much better pump.
Dan in TN
If you decide to do the rebuild, it may seem hard, but it really isn’t. I rebuild them all the time and keep old pumps for parts. The 3 parts that commonly fail are the diaphragm, gasket to fuel filter cover, and filter cover. Usually the filter cover fails due to someone overtightening that hand screw with a pair of pliers. The cover cracks. The gasket and diaphragm just dry out over time (but that takes years and years, or just sitting exposed to the elements without care).
Of course, I am still only 36 and have 20/10 vision. I can imagine manipulating those small parts is only going to get more difficult as time moves forward. If you use the two mounting screws to hold the various pieces in alignment, then you just ‘stack’ the parts in the correct order and it moves along like clockwork.
The trick is understanding which configuration your pump needs to be in for your motor, as the fuel outlet nozzle can be configured in 4 different directions depending on the motor (so make sure you remember which way your motor calls for). Always test the pump at the end by blowing through the inlet, then blowing through the outlet. You should not be able to blow air through the outlet. If you can, you did something wrong.
Pumps may work with this error, but in my experience fail randomly without warning when used this way.
The Sidewinder as offered by Racing Outboards LLC , uses the same fuel pump — ( If reliability is the question, this pump is the ANSWER ! )
http://www.racingoutboards.com/brochure … ptions.pdf
😀
The complete rebuild kits are available for a reasonable price.
Here’s one of many.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Pump-Repai … kw&vxp=mtr
if…. one was to cut a piece of thick aluminum shaped just like the pump gasket and…. thread in a nipple on the center hole and then mount the adapter to the pulse port behind the pump
you could convert the engine to use cheap and reliable $15 B&S "round pumps" by simply adding a short length of "pulse hose" to the new pump
and then run the in and out fuel lines as usual. My converted 5.5hp runs real nice on a B&S pump
http://s1088.photobucket.com/user/1cros … sort=2&o=5i know… it is not a perfect solution but you can save 75$ … enough to buy another motor 🙂
Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂
Or you could just talk him into getting a Merc and rebuilding the pump in 5 minutes flat with his eyes closed…..
Man…did I just say that out loud on this Johnson site..?I rebuilt one last summer; followed Leroy’s diagrams to a "T"…..and I guess I was just lucky; works great to this day.
The tiny springs are a bit of a pain; I think I used a dab of grease to help out. I’m accustomed to rebuilding the Walbro and ZAMA 2-stroke carbs (chain saws and the like) and they have springs too….but that was the only practice I had.
When time is money though (as it would be with a customer’s motor) I could see just recommending a new pump and being done with it. Less chance of a come-back too I suppose.
Chuck in Santa Barbara
quote Mumbles:The complete rebuild kits are available for a reasonable price.Here’s one of many.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Pump-Repai … kw&vxp=mtr
That’s perfect. It even includes the springs.
Steve
There is only one problem with that Ebay listing. The small fuel pump wasn’t even the correct pump used on models 9.9/15 thru 1999! It stopped being the correct pump in 1987 late production! OMC went to the large pump because of poor pump performance in vapor & supply situations. If you have to buy a pump assy. it is much better to buy the larger pump. It is a better pump, easier to rebuild from then on, and cheaper to buy most of the time than the small pump. I sure would not use the small pump in a racing application. If you look on our "Classic" engines the original pumps were the larger pumps (some are still alive today) and the small pump did come along till later. Better to go back to a larger pump in my opinion. Bolts in the same place in all of the application I have tried.
Dan in TN
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