Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1984 Johnson Sea Horse carb question.
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fleetwin.
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April 20, 2015 at 2:33 am #1265
Finally got to working on a 1984 Johnson model J2RCRS 2HP Sea Horse. Cleaned the gas tank and was glad to see the filter is good. My compression is 65 and it has a strong spark. When I open up the carb it appears to be super clean with no residue at all. I removed the high speed nozzle and it is clean. I am used to cleaning up elgin gunked up carbs with crystallized sand like gas residue. So I have two questions. One is should I coat the cork float with dope due to ethanol and what steps if so? Do I have to sand it down to bare cork? How many coats? My second question is since it appears to be perfectly clean I am not wanting to remove the lead shots all over to check those paths. I am used to having small bolts to remove instead of lead to check those areas. I can blow air thru all the openings and hear it perfectly. Any pointers would be appreciated.
April 20, 2015 at 1:18 pm #14347Well, I would NOT remove those core plugs and lead shots unless you find carb problems once the engine gets running. I haven’t had any experience sealing up floats, carb kits are readily available for this engine.
65PSI seems a little low for compression though, any signs of overheat? Hopefully the compression will come up once you get the engine running.April 20, 2015 at 6:20 pm #14366Unless the coating is bad on the float, I’d leave it alone. By 1984, they were quite accustomed to Ethanol and the factory coating should be ok. If it is deteriated, I suggest you replace it with a new one, which is now made of Nitrophyl, fuel resistant all the way through. Um….maybe it already is Nitrophyl (?) Is it black? That’s the best you can get.
April 20, 2015 at 6:21 pm #14367I seem to recall Lloyd’s contention those motors should have 120+ compression to run well. Maybe this one got caught in the 100:1 frenzy..
April 21, 2015 at 1:06 am #14399Everyone thank you for the info. The float appears to be in excellent condition and will remain. The lead shot will not be touched unless needed. I realize the compression appears to be low but part of that could be my gage though my technique has been improving due to a thread in an old post. There does not appear to be any blistered or blackened paint on this motor to indicate over heating. I am just trying to get it running to check the impellar(may replace sooner) and lower leg condition while running a couple tanks of sea foam/40:1 to loosen the rings. If it runs rough or has power issues, I will rebuild. Anything other issues that these 2 hp motors are noted for?
April 21, 2015 at 1:52 am #14407I just finished my 74 Johnson version up and it literally purrs like a kitten with exactly 65 PSI. time will tell obviously but I would not give up even if your 65 is accurate. A new plastic float can be had with some of the carb kits. Hardly worth buying the bowl gasket and not getting the new float IMHO. My 74 float was like yours looking like brand new but I if the motor is gonna be a year in year out user seems worth it to put a new one in.
For sure compare your carb to a parts list diagram and see that all the gaskets are there.
Great little engines eh, lite as a feather and easy to work on.
I
April 21, 2015 at 12:16 pm #14424Once you get her running, you will want to do the water pump. This can get a little confusing because there are two styles of impellers depending on the style of water pump you have. The good "kit" is expensive but worth the investment if you want to keep the engine. Another thing to note is there is no oring for the upper driveshaft splines, so be sure to lube the splines well with omc moly lube.
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