Home Forum Ask A Member 2 six gallon OMC J/E tanks to work on!

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  • #6495
    paulfromyork
    Participant

      I won’t bore you with the details, but I found 2 tanks today at a local Marina on the Susquehanna River. One appears to be complete. The other needs a float on the gage rod. Both are rust free, as near as I can tell. Both have some residue in them. Kinda’ green and slimey looking. SO… I need help. what’s the best way to proceed to clean these up and prepare them for summer boating?

      #54035
      Mumbles
      Participant

        The green slime is probably forty year old fuel mix and has turned to turpentine. Lacquer thinner and other strong solvents can loosen the goo up but straight old ammonia from the dollar store can to. Give it plenty of time to do its magic. One bit of advice, don’t use an expensive parts cleaner solvent. I tried that once and the solvent turned to syrup while cleaning the tank.

        #54036
        aquasonic
        Participant

          US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)

          Mumbles is right. Whatever you use will be thrown away. I have used about a dozen solvents for tank cleaning and have found inexpensive ammonia to be most effective. It is environmentally more responsible also. Just don’t use it in the presence of brass. Ammonia destroys brass.

          I have a box of 100 1/4" hex nuts that are added to the solvent in the tank and can be shaken (not stirred) occasionally to mechanically loosen the petroleum deposits. Once the deposits are cleaned, you will be able to inspect the tank for internal rust. If rust is present, electrolysis is very effective in the removal.

          #54038
          Steve A W
          Participant

            US Member - 2 Years

            E85 gas will cut the crud.
            I can’t take the ammonia smell, I got a snoot full when I was
            young and it took my breath away.
            Put bolts or screws or something in it and shake it allot.
            Good luck with them.

            Steve A W

            Member of the MOB chapter.
            I live in Northwest Indiana

            #54039
            paulfromyork
            Participant

              OK guys. But maybe I should have been more specific. Is it ok to REMOVE the attachment with the fitting and fuel gage? And how does it re-seal? What is acceptable for a float replacement? That 2" hole doesn’t allow for much real work. I guess you must remove the fittings. (?)

              #54040
              aquasonic
              Participant

                US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)

                The best way to go is to remove every screw, both inside and out. Take everything apart and clean. Now you have better access to the inside.

                When you are finished cleaning the inside of the tank, there are rebuilding kits available with the diaphragm, top gasket, and washers for the exterior screws.

                #54048
                david-bartlett
                Participant

                  I have a good family run hardware store nearby which has cork stoppers big enough to use for a float. I think the Mercury style foam floats would work quite well.

                  #54076
                  paulfromyork
                  Participant

                    will plain cork work, or does it have to be sealed in some way? I was thinking I might try to make a brass float.

                    #54078
                    PugetSoundBoater
                    Participant

                      In regards to the gas tank fuel level gauge float, When i buy a used plastic tank i remove and discard all the fuel level float and arm. The hardware just rusts. After cleaning the interior, i kept finding rust flakes from the float arm hardware. I just take the lid off and look inside for a good estimate of how much gas i have. Or just pick it up ,tell by the weight.

                      On a period correct factory tank, of course i would keep it all original. Find a cork at the hardware store about the same size as your existing one, and coat it with super glue ,or several other materials our club members use.

                      "Some people want to know how a watch works, others just want to know what time it is"
                      Robbie Robertson

                      #54080
                      jerry-ahrens
                      Participant

                        US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)

                        On the cork question, plain cork will work fine, but rubberized cork from an auto parts store is easier to work with in terms of cutting and shaping. If the gasket is made correctly, install it clean and dry with no sealer. I believe you can still purchase the cork floats and cork gaskets ready to use from your local dealer. Or, make your own to save some cash. I’ve made my own cork gaskets used on the double line pressure tanks for years now. It also works great under a newly installed transom board, for leak and vibration issues. Auto parts stores carry various thicknesses of cork gasket material in bulk rolls, or in sheets.
                        On how to clean the inside of the tank…. I like Castrol Super Clean along with HOT water. Use full strength if it’s really nasty. keep the garden hose handy to rinse the outside, cause Super Clean can damage paint if left on to long. I usually buy this stuff in the 2 1/2 gallon jug, and use it on the shop floor, gas tank cleaning, diluted for cleaning boats, etc,etc.

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