Home Forum Ask A Member 3 hp Evinrude question (’50s to 60s)

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  • #209735
    fleetwin
    Participant

      US Member

      A big consideration when buying one of these engines is the fuel tank….If the tank is full of rust, fouled with old fuel, it is pretty much unusable. Tanks that are all dented up might leak also.
      Look at the gearcase also. Oftentimes the little end of the skeg is broken off, or the exhaust snout is missing/broken.
      You need to assume that anything you buy will need a complete servicing to make it a “reliable daily runner”.
      Ignition overhaul
      Carburetor overhaul
      Water pump service.
      It would be ideal if the seller would let you do a compression test, but the lower covers must come off for that… Would be great if the seller would let you “crack” the lower lube drain/fill screw open for a second to see the condition of the gear lube also.
      In other words, the selling price needs to reflect all the servicing the engine will need.
      $50-100 seems about fair for most of these engines that are in decent mechanical/cosmetic condition but need servicing.
      Feel free to post links here if you see somethings you like…

      #209738
      todd281
      Participant

        Another thing to ponder, is whether it has seen use in salt water. If it has, and was not properly rinsed out after each use, they can be very hard to work on or fix. look for white chalk like deposits .

        #209747
        overland
        Participant
          #209783
          fleetwin
          Participant

            US Member

            First link: A “nice looking” 1967 Lightwin, appears to be fresh water used. But, the owner mentions something about gas left in the tank, so you would want to have a close look at that…$275 is pretty expensive for and engine that needs a fuel tank….Couldn’t really see the gearcase, so make sure it is not broken…
            Second link: Another 1967 Lightwin, appears to be fresh water used also. The tank is banged up, but not too bad. $100 is reasonable if the inside of the tank is clean…Gearcase looks to be in good shape physically.
            Third post: This is a 1963 LIghtwin, owner says tank is clean and dry. Gearcase looks in good shape physically. This engine has transom brackets with two clamp screws and and adjustable high speed needle…Most of us prefer this set up over the newer single screw and fixed high speed jet on the newer models…
            Fourth post: This is a 1960 Lightwin with the two clamp transom bracket and adjustable high speed needle…Way over priced at $225 though. I would ask the owner what he means by “the lower unit was done a few years ago”….Water pump, or reseal job. Odd that the lower unit appears dusty/oily, kind of like it was leaking, but who knows…You would want to check inside the tank also…

            Like I said, it would be great if the owners would let you do a compression test and check the gear lube. Don’t forget to look the engines over carefully for cracked/bent castings, especially the gearcase areas I mentioned….Make sure the tank is clean inside.
            So, it seems like the third listing might be worth looking into. The second listing is nice also and reasonably priced. The first and last listings are way over priced, not worth looking into unless the owners are willing to negotiate quite a bit…

            #209788
            frankr
            Participant

              US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

              Wanna know how the front of the tank gets dented up (second link)? Often by turning the starter rope handle loose while pulled out.

              #209791
              fleetwin
              Participant

                US Member

                The three horse motors have sleeve style bearings on the crank and they must use a heavier oil mixture in the gas than other motors with ball or needle bearings on the crank. 16:1 is preferred but they will survive on 24:1 if they are babied.

                • This reply was modified 4 years, 8 months ago by Mumbles.

                Agree 200 percent… The beauty of these older engines is that when in good shape and tuned correctly, they barely smoke at all, even at 16:1.

                #209793
                overland
                Participant

                  Thanks all for the comments and advice. It’s very helpful.

                  #209800
                  garry-in-michigan
                  Participant

                    Lifetime Member

                    The main problem is the riveted on counterweight that makes them idle so smoothly necessitates trimming the connecting rod for cleacence. This causes the top rod to starve for lubrication. they won’t last on anything less han 24 to one mixture. Especially when they stoped casting in the brass bearing and switched to silver plating.

                    #209806
                    outbdnut2
                    Participant

                      US Member

                      I use 20 to 1 in mine, and other 16 to 1 and 24 to 1 motors because it’s easy to pour a quart of oil into a 5 gallon can of gas and that gives 20 to 1.
                      Dave

                      #209903
                      2fast4me
                      Participant

                        Not sure if mentioned or not, there is a fuel filter above the shutoff valve and inside the tank. These can plug causing poor fuel flow and poor running. The fuel cap also had a vent that will plug if stored horizontal with fuel in the tank. I have two JW-10’s (1953 vintage) i paid $90.00 each and a late model Ducktwin that i got for $75.00. Lots to pick from here in SW Wisconsin.

                        2Fast4Me

                        • This reply was modified 4 years, 8 months ago by 2fast4me.
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