Good parts source for those kinds of parts is http://www.marineengine.com. If they don’t go back far enough on the year, just look up the oldest year 3 HP they list. They will show both OEM and after market parts if available. I’ve found that a carb kit is seldom needed for these motors. Usually a good cleanout is all they need and the gaskets, etc will usually reseal fine. Sometimes you need a carb float that doesn’t come in most kits. Ethanol in the gas eats the sealer coating on the cork material.

Be sure to have the donut fiber washer in place that goes over the bottom of the main jet where it hangs down to mate with passage at the bottom center of the carb bowl. Easy to lose this when you take it apart. On those 3 HP motors, I have substituted two small O-rings from a Harbor Freight tool company assortment, stacked on top of each other for that donut, and that worked fine
Dave

• This reply was modified 4 years, 8 months ago by outbdnut2.

You will find an exploded view of the carb at marineengine.com, and below. Just disassemble the parts that unscrew, and the pin that hinges the float. Get a spray can of carb cleaner with a long small tube and spray through all the passages (get that at any auto parts store or places like Walmart or Menards that have an auto dept). If you have compressed air, blow that through the passages when done, but usually spraying the carb cleaner everywhere is enough. I’ve only removed the pressed-in welch plugs(part 38) on about 5% of the carbs I do, and only after having idle problems after thorough cleaning. You don’t need to take every last part apart. Leave the throttle assembly alone except to spray cleaner at the moving pat pivot points – same with choke..

If I did this right, here is the carb and part #32 is that donut washer I referred to in a previous post:
Dave

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/evinrude-johnson-parts-diagrams/JOHNSON/377017-CARBURETOR-GROUP.gif

• This reply was modified 4 years, 8 months ago by outbdnut2.
• This reply was modified 4 years, 8 months ago by outbdnut2.
• This reply was modified 4 years, 8 months ago by outbdnut2.

I use so much oil running 35 and 40 HPs a lot, I buy the generic house brands to save some bucks, like Walmart’s “Super-Tech” (it’s not on the shelf with the name brand OB oils, look farther down the aisle). I just be sure the TCW-3 rating is there. Back in the 1950s/1960s, Johnson /Evinrude said it was OK to use SAE30 weight non-detergent automotive oil, and back then, with a 1960 40 HP Dad bought new, we ran only SAE30 Non-detergent because at 25 to 1, going through 200 gallons of gas each summer, mainly skiing on weekends at the cabin, we used a lot of oil and bought the 30-weight cheap in bulk in our own can at the local Phillips66 station. Same oil when we traded up to a V4 60 HP at 50 to 1. Ran each motor many years and never had a problem. So I figure that if SAE30 was OK back then, today’s TCW-3 is a lot better, even if it is a generic brand. Now if I had a newer, 100 to 1 engine, I’d be more picky on the oil, or, like the 1991 15 HPs I have, I think 100 to 1 is ridiculous so I run 50 to 1 with the generic TCW-3.
Dave

billw wrote:

I respect everyone’s opinion and results. As for me, we used to do a lot of troubleshooting and repair of two stroke engines. Often, we’d find low compression on an OMC, a Merc or a Force. When we found that, we’d go digging around in the boat for a bit and nearly always find it…..a low budget oil container. Just MY opinion.

Yes, everyone’s results will vary. The OEM oils usually have extra additives above and beyond TCW3 requirements, they have a vested interest in longevity of their products. I guess it all depends on the engine and how it is used. Seems like some engines don’t care what you use, provided you use plenty of it…Unfortunately, other engines, regardless of care, maintenance, and lube quality, seem to be prone to stuck rings…