40hp Johnson 1963 Water Pump

[twsnagel]

Trying to get things lined up for my one kick at the dealer before my Monday trip. Does anyone know if Johnson Part 777213 is equivalent to Johnson part 377230?

Sites like this seem to imply the aftermarket impeller can replace either one:
http://www.mobymarine.com.au/johnson-ev … -3083.html

I know that OMC is always preferable, but I guess a slightly ill-fitting impeller is better than an ancient one, and those are the choices at this late hour.

[pappy]

Buy a complete kit and keep what you don’t need for spares. Not like these parts are going to be manufactured forever. Build a supply!
Throw away your old impeller though!!

[twsnagel]

Hi everyone:
OK, thanks for keeping me from being lazy. It only took about 20 minutes to get down to the impeller. It’s not in rotten shape but I’ll try to get a new one tomorrow or on the weekend since I’ve now got it apart anyway. At any rate, my mind will be a lot more at ease about taking her out on Monday.

BUT…..

When I took the leg off, there was a small metal part in the sump of the exhaust port. It is a semicircular piece of metal. It looks like it was cast that way – not that it broke off something. Can anyone identify it? I’ve attached pictures below. It’s steel, not aluminum (it is attracted to a magnet). It’s next to a dime for size reference.

[frankr]

Drive key, like what turns the impeller. I have to assume there was one there when you tore it down (and is now). Obviously, it won’t work without it. Maybe somebody previously dropped it and couldn’t find it so he replaced it (?).

[twsnagel]

Yes, yes, that would be the drive key, and I know exactly who dropped it down there. 😳

Thanks again!

[Steve A W]

twsnagel
Don’t be thinking your the only one that’s ever done that ❗
LOL

Steve A W

Member of the MOB chapter.
I live in Northwest Indiana

[twsnagel]

Well, just ducky. The grommets on the impeller housing for the water tubes are so iffy that I know I can’t pull it apart without replacing them. And I just stripped one bolt in the shift rod connector. So I can’t get it back to working. And I can’t pull it apart to improvise something with the shift rod connector since the grommets won’t stand another disassembly.

I’d have been better to leave it as-is with the old impeller 🙁

I’m not sure I want to dump yet another $50 into it for grommets and linkage. It may be the end of the line.

Oh, so close.

[frankr]

Grommets are less than $5 each. As for the shift rod connector, you only need one "good" screw. Put a longer screw through the other one, with a nut on the back.
Let that be a lesson to all. When installing the shift rod connector screw, use a flashlight to peer in there and make sure the notch in the shift rod is exactly aligned with the hole in the connector before inserting the screw. If not aligned, the screw threads will drag on the edge of the notch, which will wipe the threads off the screw. Then it will fall out, but never at dockside. Always 5 miles out.

[twsnagel]

Thank you, FrankR!

Yes – I usually am so good at reading the "Good Words" in the shop manual, and missed those ones. I thought the linkage worked as a clamp and that I didn’t need to remove the bolt to add the linkage. Hopefully others can learn from this as well.

I’ll pull it apart again tonight, and put the nut/bolt on as you suggest.

Maybe I’ll get away with the old grommets one more time. In any case, I’ll order new ones, but they will take a few days to arrive. The only dealer in town does not have a good stock of old parts.

I was so looking forward to having this out of my garage, finally, after 8 months, and had even booked time off work and planned a trip North with my dad to drop it at the lake on Monday and take it for a test drive.

I assume that the bolt and nut should be stainless? I won’t hit some kind of weird galvanic corrosion with the brass linkage in the exhaust stream? Lock washer rather than nylon castle nut, I’d assume? I think the nylon will melt.

-T

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