4447 Evinrude Fleetwin

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  • Buccaneer
    Buccaneer

    US Member - 1 Year
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    #7480

    I started on my cheapie auction 4447 Evinrude this evening
    that has the neutral shift knob sticking out on top. From the parts diagrams I’ve
    found so far, it looks like something I’ve never worked on
    before, having the neutral shift spring on the prop shaft.
    I can’t find a Evinrude manual that covers any procedures
    on this type of lower unit.
    Can I drop the whole lower unit by undoing the shift
    linkage under the power head some how?

    This unit has the broken tiller and handle bracket, so
    all that has to come of from under the power head some how!

    All I’ve determine about the unit so far is that it has "spark",
    the coils look like new, and compression is 68 & 71 psi….
    hopefully enough to be a decent runner?
    Thanks for any sage advice!


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    garry-in-michigan

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    #60633

    Do you have the parts book? Well, anyway here it is . . . 😀






    On page seven, taking out the short 202699 and long 202610 exhaust outlet screw gives you access to the lower clutch rod lock wire 203040 (a small hair pin) so the lower unit will drop down when you take out the four 202699 pump body screws.

    Buccaneer
    Buccaneer

    US Member - 1 Year
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    #60645

    Garry, I had a couple of parts pages, but was missing the important
    one showing the "carry handle, pivot bearing, and bracket". THANKS!

    My Fleetwin must have been on the wall with Humpty Dumpty
    when they fell off! Never seen a carry handle and tiller
    so busted up and patched with scrap iron!
    Great information on releasing the shift rod behind the
    exhaust snout….. at least now I have "half a chance"!

    Prepare to be boarded!

    Buccaneer
    Buccaneer

    US Member - 1 Year
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    #60661

    Things are progressing in taking the Fleetwin apart.
    I removed the exhaust snout to access the "wire" or
    clip that Garry mentioned to un-hook the shift rod.
    Interesting enough, this clip was missing.
    After I removed the four water pump housing bolts, etc.,
    I still could not pull off the lower unit, as the big "crook"
    in the shift rod would not pass thru the housing.
    Made some guesses and got it un-hooked from the
    top end by driving out a pin that holds the "primary shift lever",
    which fits in a notch at the top of the shift rod.
    Not sure how that stays engaged the way it’s made!
    I got the broken "carry handle" removed from the power head,
    so now it’s time to see if the unit with the good handle has
    a power head with as good or better compression!
    Have not taken apart the gear case yet. That’s going
    to be interesting!


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    Buccaneer
    Buccaneer

    US Member - 1 Year
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    #60673

    This afternoon I tore into the Fleetwin 4443 "parts" motor with
    the good carry handle bracket. This unit was missing cowls,
    gas cap, & exhaust snout, but otherwise complete.
    Turns out that it has somewhat better compression than
    the complete 4447 I recently got at auction.
    Externally, I don’t see much difference between the two,
    except the 4443 gas tank has a hole in the rewind housing
    and it’s labeled "Vent" (for the gas tank)
    Not sure yet if the 4447 is an a "new and improved" power head
    over the 4443, that had some internal changes for the best, i.e.,
    better rods, etc?
    Any insight on that welcomed.
    Even though compression is better on one power head, I suppose
    I should pull the intake and exhaust port covers to see about
    any scoring of pistons or rings.
    At least the 4443 had the wire clip that attaches the shift rod linkage
    in the L.U.!
    By the looks of the magneto, I think it’s been worked on before 😕


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    fisherman6
    fisherman6

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 1810
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    #60733

    Wow Bucc,
    That may is quite the mixture of pieces and parts what with the one OMC coil, one German coil, one vertical paper top condenser, and one condenser mounted horizontally in a convenient, flywheel-rubbing location 😯 on top of the coil. If say you’re right about it having been "worked on" before. 😕 At least the coils are probably still OK, although I do prefer a matched set and I typically find those brown OMC coils have quite a bit lower secondary resistance than the German ones. It may or may not have an effect on the idle quality. It sure looks like a good place for a BRP tune up kit!
    -Ben
    .

    OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

    Buccaneer
    Buccaneer

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 3836
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    #60777

    Today I tore apart the gear case on the 4443 Fleetwin.
    I had a bugger of a time getting the "Clutch Lever Support Collar"
    removed. There was a snap ring in the gear case
    ahead of it. There was an arrow on the collar that
    said "Remove". I wasn’t sure "why" to rotate it at the time, as
    I saw no threads. The piece kept binding up
    and didn’t want to come out of the gear case.
    I finally decided that were some slight burrs
    in the gear case around the snap ring groove.
    Once I finally got the collar out, I believe one is suppose
    to "rotate" the collar a ways to disengage the
    "Clutch Lever".
    I don’t remember seeing the 207113 "Clutch Lever Spring".
    Anyone know it’s function and where it hooks to?
    I also don’t remember seeing the "Driveshaft retaining Ring",
    part 301883.
    I have a 4447 gear case, so hoping all the parts are in it,
    so I can at least make one good one.
    I’d love to know what the Evinrude service manual says
    about these gear cases…… especially on how to put
    them back together, lol.
    Update –
    I cleaned the parts up and took a few photos.
    No idea yet how the clutch arm stays in place.
    I’m sure if I had the missing spring that would help,
    but I see nothing that the arm actually attaches to.
    The clutch spring has no bent, or protruding ends
    for the arm to grab to. It may be broke off, but
    then again, the parts diagram doesn’t show any either.
    Hoping I can get the other gear case apart and see
    how the clutch arm is positioned. First one didn’t
    go so well.

    Update Update-
    Just found this on YouTube, showing how the clutch spring
    engages the spring.

    Captured a photo from the video. Hopefully my
    other gear case has the missing clip.
    Same guy has another short video showing more
    on how the neutral clutch works.
    https://youtu.be/PRYPpAb2vvw


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    garry-in-michigan

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    #60795

    The end of the 202659 clutch drive spring must have a bent up end. Put the spring on the edge of a vice and hitting it with a hammer to straighten the last 3/16" should do it, The spring may break if a lever locking pliers is used. The 203117 spring clip is what holds the 203116 clutch lever in place. Both motors should be the same. Only the first year was the odd ball. . . 😀 . 1950

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    Goman

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 140
    Topics: 35
    #60805

    I went out and bought all kinds of springs until i realized i had the right part all along. The "spring" just holds the clutch in place.

    Buccaneer
    Buccaneer

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    #60810

    Goman, it’s quite obvious from your photo on how the
    clutch arm sits in the support collar. Not sure why
    I couldn’t see that out in the garage. Hope mine
    isn’t broken!
    It looks like I can use a piece of hardened wire
    to make a new "spring" or clip.

    Garry, my clutch spring is somewhat "pitted up",
    but it does turn freely on the drum when turned
    backwards. What an awlful place to put the
    neutral clutch in a vintage gear case that
    was guaranteed to leak after ten years!
    Will see if the other gear case has better
    parts, but not anticipating as such!
    Thanks!

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    Goman

    US Member - 1 Year
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    #60815

    From what I remember my clutch drive spring looked worse than yours and still functioned ok. I believe there was a you tube video of someone working on one.

    Buccaneer
    Buccaneer

    US Member - 1 Year
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    #60817

    Goman, I posted links to two said clutch videos on this thread yesterday.
    YouTube is great!
    I tore apart the 4443 gear case this morning.
    While the parts manual lumps the 4443 & 4447 together,
    there are differences in the clutch arms and spring
    actuator / retainer. I’m not sure the 4447 was
    "new and improved" or not. 😮

    The 4443 has a "long, half circle, "bail wire", thingy,
    that hold the clutch arm up with tension. And instead
    of a notch in the clutch arm (4447) that the shift rod
    hooks to, the 4443’s shift rod has a blunt end that
    pushes down on the clutch arm.

    Overall, the 4443 gear case part are in better shape, and
    the power head’s compression is somewhat better.
    The 4447 will be a donor for cowlings, etc.

    Have to investigate and see if any of the gear case seals
    are available.


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    Buccaneer
    Buccaneer

    US Member - 1 Year
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    #61192

    The lower unit is all back together, the carburetor has been
    gone through and installed, as well as the magneto. Hopefully tomorrow I
    can get the gas tank and rewind on, and maybe see if it runs.

    I’m glad I had another Fleetwin with the same Tillotson MD-34B carb to look at.
    The choke and throttle mechanism’s were a pain to get together
    correctly! As Stan mentioned before, the carb low speed jet
    is left hand threaded….. didn’t take me too long to remember that 😕
    Thought I’d post photos of the carb for prosperity sake, in case
    some other poor soul works on one! The carb bowl large brass plug
    (to access and remove the float needle) was messed up and would
    not budge, so I used an old trick I learned while working on some
    old auto generators. I put a large screwdriver straight slot bit
    in the drill press. Mounted the carb bowl in a machinist vise.
    Then while holding downward pressure on the drill press lever,
    I turned the drill chuck with a big pliers. A great way to get,
    plenty of pressure at a straight angle, without the bit slipping!

    Decided not to try to find and purchase lower unit seals or a water pump impeller
    on this one until I see if it actually runs, and the neutral shift works, lol.
    If it runs, there will be popcorn and a video 😎


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    mikeswaggs


    Replies: 2
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    #203690

    Viewing your post here – did you ever get it to run well?

    Buccaneer
    Buccaneer

    US Member - 1 Year
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    #203715

    These videos speak for the results of my Fleetween.

    Prepare to be boarded!

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