So I am almost done with this restoration. New pistons, rings, seals, gear case seals (except for driveshaft seal), gaskets, fully overhauled carb etc.

I put the compression gauge (very good gauge, but did not spend $300 either). Pre overhaul ~70 psi both holes. Now 88-90 both holes. Yes, a bit of TWC oil in each cylinder to protect all the virgin parts, but still a great improvement.

I was performing a spark check with the gap tester. Basic issue: cylinder #2 coil is jumping from the solder joint to the closest laminate screw. Here is the strange part, please read carefully. When I close the gap in the spark checker I get a pretty strong blue spark but I’m not jumping reliably more than 1/8″. After seeing this for a few seconds I open the gap 1/2 turn of the screw at a time. I MIGHT get good spark the first turn, but one more turn and now my spark is intermittent at best, if not non-existent except the spark is now jumping from the #2 solder joint to the closest laminate screw.

#1 cylinder does somewhat the same, except I can add a bit more gap before I lose it. On cylinder #1 the spark loss is to the mag plate. I can see tiny sparks jumping under the coil core.

Points were refreshed 100% (shiny and parallel). Spark plug wires brand new. Coils tested good (don’t remember numbers) and condensers (passive test, not under load) tested okay as well. (although one looks dicey). Coil heels gapped at .010 to .012 (shim stock used was .010, so pretty dang close to that).

Retested points. 100% okay.

Correct me if I’m wrong here, I’d like to try my hand here…

I have excessive resistance somewhere, correct? Since my spark won’t leave point A and go to point B the (resistance?) in my setup is forcing the spark to take the path of least resistance, yes?

Where to start? I’m thinking condensers?

As always, appreciate any help I can get?

UPDATE:

Took the mag plate off, went through everything including checking for the points to lose continuity when opened. I even removed and took the points sets apart. All is well.

Reinstalled and tested. I also isolated the solder joint with some carefully placed (temporary) electrical tape. No grounding anymore.

Not sure why, but #1 has stopped grounding as well.

I might have almost 1/4″ spark gap on #2 now, not sure if the reason is I replaced that condenser or not. (the one in the photo)

Number 1 might have 3/16″, but not reliably. I can almost rely on 1/8″, but not 100%. Don’t understand it???

I’m thinking weak coils.

Just thinking out loud here, I think the answer is no but here goes. I greased the sleeve that fits into the mag plate and over the circular mounting area on the crankcase with grease. Should this be di-electric grease? I have already tested a couple of motors where I overhauled the mag plate and never had an issue, but just need to ask…

Lastly!!!!! I’m not sure if I included this at some point: Coils are 5.69k and 5.70k (LOW?????)

P.S. – Not that it matters, but I put 48? because the model plate is missing the model # stamped in. It has a serial number, but not a model #. Based on the limited parts diagram offered for 1948, I am guessing at a 48. Just a trival note, doesn’t really affect the conversation.

Best Regards,