Topic: 5.5hp Johnson CD question – Antique Outboard Motor Club,Inc

This topic has 10 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 9 months ago by tom-c.

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March 23, 2015 at 1:00 am #1000
Doug Wilson
Participant
US Member - 2 Years
Just started working on a 1959 CD-16 I have had in storage for a while. When I started it
just to see if it would start (3rd pull) looks like upper crank shaft seal is leaking (only set for 20yrs because lower unit leaking) Do you have to crack the case to change the seal or is there a way to pull it without taking the whole motor apart. I am completely resealing the lower unit and replacing the lower seal which sets under the motor.
Doug

Doug

how is it motors multiply when the garage lights get
turned off?
March 23, 2015 at 2:36 am #12588
garry-in-michigan
Participant
Lifetime Member
There is no seal as such on those models. A slinger ring throws the oil which seeps past the bushing into a slot above the bushing where it is then pulled back into the intake manifold. If the passage into the manifold gets plugged, the magneto gets flooded with oil.

. . . . . 😉
March 23, 2015 at 3:37 am #12591
Doug Wilson
Participant
US Member - 2 Years
Thanks Gary will take things apart and check it out has been in storage waiting on me to reseal the lower unit for about 20 yrs surprised me that it started on the third pull before even looking at the points and carb

Doug

how is it motors multiply when the garage lights get
turned off?
March 23, 2015 at 2:41 pm #12604
Mumbles
Participant
quote ddwilson:

Thanks Gary will take things apart and check it out has been in storage waiting on me to reseal the lower unit for about 20 yrs surprised me that it started on the third pull before even looking at the points and carb

That’s a Johnson for you!

Reliability and dependability built into each one!
March 23, 2015 at 2:50 pm #12605
tom-c
Participant
I just acquired a ’56 Johnson CD-13. I’m sure it will need all the usual stuff, coils, points, carb kit etc. But the steering damper is totally loose and the adjustment screw is tightened all the way. What do I need to do to tighten up the steering?
March 23, 2015 at 3:04 pm #12607
Mumbles
Participant
That problem calls for a bit of a teardown.

The powerhead, mid section and gear case can easily be removed as one unit before you can remove the swivel tube. Once the tube is out, you can get at the brass plate and rubber piece which push on the fibre top bushing. It’s usually the rubber piece which is worn causing the loose steering. I cut replacements out of a sheet of neoprene type material and clean and regrease everything while it’s apart. A piece of inner tube has worked before to.
March 23, 2015 at 10:00 pm #12638
Steve D
Participant
I have a swivel bracket from a 1956 Evinrude 7-1/2 HP. I compared a few of the numbers with the CD-13 and they look to be the same. I think the parts Mumbles is referring to are 56 and 57. I can get the rubber piece out and send it to you or I can send you the whole bracket for the cost of shipping. Maybe you want to keep the extra parts around just in case.

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March 23, 2015 at 11:50 pm #12642
crosbyman
Participant
Canada Member - 2 Years
your a good man Steve D 🙂

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂
March 23, 2015 at 11:52 pm #12643
crosbyman
Participant
Canada Member - 2 Years
Ooops forgot to ask… you wouldn’t have a spare 5.5 prop would you 🙂

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂
March 24, 2015 at 12:06 am #12646
Steve D
Participant
Thanks crosbyman, but no I don’t have that prop. I have a few other parts from 7-1/2 and 5-1/2 that had bad blocks/lower units that I’m parting out. If you need anything I can check.
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