50 Cent Hone Job

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  • May 20, 2019 at 10:15 pm #175606
    BayouBengal
    Participant

      I’ve not got a lot of experience working with engines and have never rebuilt one, but I have a 1957 Evinrude 18hp that I bought for $20 quite a few years ago as a parts motor for a 1956 Johnson 15hp that I was using on a boat at the time. However, I never ended up needing any parts off of it, and lately, I’ve became interested in seeing if I could make the motor run.

      The motor was locked and quite rusty but after three days of soaking the block in Marvel Mystery Oil I was able to tap the pistons out and pry the rings off of them. Surprisingly, the pistons don’t actually look bad, nor do the cylinders. While I want to get the motor running with enough compression to make it functional, I’ve no dreams of restoring it to the point of optimal performance. It’s really just about challenging myself to see if I can tear it apart, put it back together, and make it run more than anything else.

      With all this said, the question is, “What can I get by with as far as cylinder work?” I know that I don’t want to spend the money for a professional machine shop, and from other things I’ve read, chances are probable of doing more damage than good honing the motor myself with a cheap three stone honer. I’ve seen references on this forum regarding a “50 cent hone job”. Can someone explain specifically what a “50 cent hone job” entails and if it would be satisfactory in this case?

      May 20, 2019 at 10:25 pm #175609
      BayouBengal
      Participant

        I’ve added a video on YouTube showing the block, cylinders, crankshaft, and pistons – https://youtu.be/qhmlvZ-Nzg8

        May 20, 2019 at 11:03 pm #175610
        frankr
        Participant

          US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)

          By your own admission, you are just experimenting. So go ahead. But in reality, the motor is junk. Crankshaft is junk. Cylinder block is junk (cracked). JB Weld won’t fix it either. As for honing, with all else considered, you could just sandpaper it. OK, y’all don’t jump on me for saying that—he is not looking for a good running motor.

          May 20, 2019 at 11:05 pm #175611
          bobw
          Participant

            US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)

            A 50 cent hone job is just using some fine emery cloth by hand to the cylinder walls to scuff them up a bit and clean up any minor rust or wear spots. If you do this, be sure to clean out any fine dust when you’re done..

            Yours might be better served by using a flex hone (also called a ball hone) to clean them up and put some cross-hatching back on the cylinder walls. A flex hone is easy to use – just use a lot of oil when running the hone in and out and also do a good cleanup afterwards.

            Not sure about the crack in that one cylinder. I think that probably just makes your block a good anchor.

            Bob

            1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
            1954 Johnson CD-11
            1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
            1958 Johnson QD-19
            1958 Johnson FD-12
            1959 Johnson QD-20

            “Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
            "Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."

            • This reply was modified 4 years, 11 months ago by bobw.
            May 20, 2019 at 11:28 pm #175619
            BayouBengal
            Participant

              Thanks guys so far for the honest feedback. Even if I don’t put the motor back together and make it run, just taking it apart and seeing how it’s put together has been time well used from an educational standpoint. If I’m not going to put it back together anyway, maybe this is a good opportunity to experiment with the ball hone. Of course, the motor is probably worth more as parts than running after you consider the costs of a crankshaft, hoses, gaskets, etc. that it would take to get it running.

              May 20, 2019 at 11:53 pm #175620
              Mumbles
              Participant

                If you really want to get the ’57 Fastwin up and running again, any OMC 18/20/25 horse powerhead thru 1976 should bolt right on to the ’57 exhaust housing. The only problem might be the driveshaft spline count and mounting the hood as the ’59 and later models were thermostat temperature controlled and don’t have the mounts on the cylinder head needed to mount the ’57 hood. Heck, running it without the hood and lower pans on would look cool and qualify it as a rat motor!

                • This reply was modified 4 years, 11 months ago by Mumbles.
                • This reply was modified 4 years, 11 months ago by Mumbles.
                May 21, 2019 at 8:06 am #175635
                fleetwin
                Participant

                  US Member - 2 Years

                  Jeff, watched your youtube video…Were both cyliinders rusted? Or, perhaps was it just the cylinder with the slight crack in the liner? There is a possibility that the little crack was allowing water inside which caused the seizure from sitting…Maybe, maybe not….
                  In any event, Bobw’s advice is best, buying one of the inexpensive flex/ball hones from “brush research manufacturing” is the best bet here. These hones are inexpensive and come is many sizes to fit your cylinder properly….This ball type hone will do a nice job reaching all the cylinder imperfections while not removing a lot of material, it will do a great job of taking any rough edges off the cylinder ports as well….Needless to say, using this style hone will do nothing to help cylinders that are out of round or oversize. But, in your case, you are not building a show piece, you just want to make it run again spending as little as possible.
                  That being said, that crack in the cylinder is a tough call indeed. It is kind of hard to see on your video, how deep does it go down the cylinder? Like Frank says, the JB weld isn’t going to be able to seal that up effectively. But, again, the crack was hard to evaluate in your video. That rust on top of your crankshaft may be just above where the upper seal rides, so there is the possibility that it has no effect on the upper seal. The only way of telling is to install the three bearings and locate the crank in the block properly (be sure to get those alignment pins on the crankcase aligned with the holes in the bearings. It is hard to evaluate the rust on that crank/rod journal also. I would get a roll of that fine crocus cloth and clean up the crank journals a bit to evaluate again. How does the rod journal look?
                  This is a tough call buddy….But, I am thinking that this project is surely not worth much of an investment. I would probably reuse these parts the way they are, unless further inspection finds they are totally unusable. This is just a project in “making this thing run again”, I’m guessing this engine will not be used as a “daily runner”. If you/we determine this thing is “beyond hope”, I would just search for a decent used powerhead….Don

                  May 21, 2019 at 2:02 pm #175684
                  BayouBengal
                  Participant

                    Thanks for all the feedback, guys. I just put the motor in the classifieds on this site as a parts motor. With all the support shown, looks like the cost of membership here was money well spent.

                    FYI, including this one, I have five motors. All the motors were acquired about 10 years ago and I’ve never really messed with them. Recently a friend wanted to see the motors and while showing them to him a desire to restore them came up inside me. The other four are:

                    1956 Johnson 15HP – I used this motor on a Glen-L Squirt boat that I built. I sold the boat but kept the motor. It’s been years since I started the motor, but I’ve no reason to believe it won’t run. This motor had already been restored (cleaned and painted) when I bought it, then I changed out all the ignition components and rebuilt the carburetor. Other than some missing paint on the top of the cowling, it looks great. It’s been stored inside in my office building along with all the other motors.

                    1967 Johnson 33HP – this motor was given to me and I was told that it starts. It certainly feels right when you pull the starter rope. I don’t have a boat to put it on and have never put it in a tank to see if it would run, but I believe it would. This motor is missing the cowling, but all of my other motors are complete.

                    1956 Johnson 30HP – motor seems a little loose when pulling the starter rope and so I believe it’s probably a little low on compression. I bought it primarily to use for parts for the motor below, but I’ve no reason to believe it wouldn’t be a fine motor on it’s own.

                    1957 Johnson Golden Jubilee Javelin 35HP – this is my prized possession amongst the group. The cowling is in excellent shape with all the chrome intact. This motor also seems very low on compression when the starter rope is pulled. This is the only motor that I have any real desire to own and thought about building a custom boat for it if it were restored. The idea of taking apart the 18HP and rebuilding it was to be a dress rehearsal for rebuilding this motor.

                    If anyone is interested in any of the above motors, shoot me an offer and I’ll consider it. Any comments or suggestions on how I might proceed with the Javelin would also be appreciated.

                    Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and advice regarding the 18HP.

                    • This reply was modified 4 years, 11 months ago by BayouBengal.
                    • This reply was modified 4 years, 11 months ago by BayouBengal.
                    May 21, 2019 at 2:18 pm #175687
                    bobw
                    Participant

                      US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)

                      That’s a nice collection of motors. By all means, you should restore the ’57 Javelin. I’m working on a full restoration of a ’56 Johnson 30HP myself right now. I take it from your forum name of BayouBengal you are located in Louisiana?

                      Bob

                      1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
                      1954 Johnson CD-11
                      1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
                      1958 Johnson QD-19
                      1958 Johnson FD-12
                      1959 Johnson QD-20

                      “Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
                      "Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."

                      May 21, 2019 at 2:51 pm #175688
                      BayouBengal
                      Participant

                        Yes, I’m in Baton Rouge. The website shows the Swamp Rats chapter located in Covington, LA (about an hour away), but doesn’t show any contact info for the chapter. I suppose maybe they’ll contact me. I’d certainly welcome an opportunity to meet with others locally.

                        Do you have a link to a post or forum thread here that I can follow along with your 30Hp restoration?

                        • This reply was modified 4 years, 11 months ago by BayouBengal.
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