June 25, 2020 at 10:45 pm #206735
If you find you need a new cable, the replacement is Teleflex 400 series aftermarket cables. They are sold premade to the length you need in one foot increments, and price is around $30 . Use the cable ends you have now on the new cables. Here is one source: https://www.boatersland.com/enginesystems-controlcables-tel400.html
Topics: 48June 28, 2020 at 1:07 pm #206989
A nice example of the boats of the day. Brings back memories.June 29, 2020 at 4:42 pm #207071
Today was a big day – I squirted a bit of starter fluid into the carb for the first time AND IT RAN!!!!! for a couple seconds, then tried it again, and then one more time. I’ve been wearing a smile ever since. So, my new question – I have the original Cruis-A-Day Hi-Lift Fuel Tank and it appears to be in good, clean condition – no dried gas, etc. Float is good, tube with screen is good. My fuel lines, however, are as old as the hills and need to be replaced. The bulb/primer looks good, but it’s just as old too. I want to replace everything, and with new clamps too. To me, the line looks like 5/16″ ID. Is that correct? I did some research and learned about the new fuel line designations (A1, A2, B1, etc.). Do I want the A1-15 fuel line? Could someone recommend a vender that sells a good quality product (fuel line, bulb, and hose clamps? The two fuel line fittings that clamp to the tank and to the motor look good. I’m not planning on replacing them. Thank you for the continued help. I’m in a much better spot now than I was before joining the AOMC.June 29, 2020 at 6:59 pm #207087
Some of the guys here don’t like aftermarket fuel lines, and for a while there was a lot of real junk out there, but I’ve found the one in the link below to be good.
Note they don’t list motors that it fits going back as far as our motors, but the connectors are correct.
DaveJune 29, 2020 at 7:04 pm #207088
Use of starting fluid spray is not a good idea because it washes the oil off the bearings. Sprays that say they contain lubricants are better that the ones that don’t, but they were developed for 4-stroke cars, not 2-stroke motors. I have, on occasion , used spray, but very little and only once. These motors need the oil in the gas. Your gas/oil mix is 25 to 1. Oils that say 50 to 1 or 100 to 1 on the container should still be mixed 25 to 1 for your motor. That’s 1 quart of oil to 6 gallons of gas.
DaveJune 29, 2020 at 9:35 pm #207098
I won’t do it again, but I sure was happy!
US Member - 2 Years
Topics: 48June 30, 2020 at 12:10 pm #207146
Complete tank hoses with connectors and a primer bulb are available from BRP/OMC and aftermarket suppliers. Please be sure the gearcase in deep in a bucket of water before trying to start the engine, even just for a few seconds, you don’t want to burn up the water pump impeller…
June 30, 2020 at 1:46 pm #207155
- This reply was modified 1 week, 6 days ago by fleetwin. Reason: addition
I looked at the link to the Sierra fuel line tank kit. it looks good but says the ID is 3/8″. Is that correct for my motor? And there are a number of short fuel line sections in the motor (carb, fuel pump, etc.) – these are all 3/8″ also? Considering their age I’d like to replace them also (and with new clamps). I should look for A1-15 fuel line? Thank you for the help.July 1, 2020 at 11:00 pm #207397
There is no maximum size for fuel lines as long as the connector fits the end. Anything 5/16 or larger will work, but the connector ends have to match the line. If you force a connector with a 3/8 nipple onto a 5/16 line, if you can get it on, it will stress it and could lead to early failure. A connector meant for 5/16 line installed on a 3/8 line will likely not seal up well when clamped. I’ve seen connectors with nipples in both sizes. The short sections of fuel line in the motor can be replaced with automotive gas line from any auto parts store. I don’t know offhand what sizes you motor has. Take each line off, cut it somewhere away from the end where it has been stretched and measure the inside diameter. You may find more than one size rubber line in the motor.
If you replace the connectors on the gas line with aftermarket ones, read the fine print on the package. There are connectors that look the same, but have a different size hole in the end to mate with the motor and tank. The ones with a slightly large hole are metric and fit some late Mercurys and some or all Yamahas. They will not seal up to Johnsons and Evinrudes.
US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 61July 1, 2020 at 11:51 pm #207403
I just love this discussion thread, it truly demonstrates how one grows in the knowledge that many of us incorrectly assume is obvious. Gary is asking the right questions and thanks to this forum is getting helpful answers. I suspect that in no time he will be the “expert” and in a position to pass on the knowledge and help others.
That said, and the “forum ” is a great tool nothing beats face to face and hands on. I always encourage someone new to old outboards and boating to bring their rig out to a local meet where there will be ample help.. hands on
Joe BJuly 2, 2020 at 12:47 pm #207485
Thank you for the encouraging reply. I sometimes think my questions are pretty simplistic, especially to to many of the very knowledgeable forum responders. I always thought of outboard motors as very intimidating items and when I bring up the topic to friends and acquaintances who I consider reasonably decent mechanics, they ALL say something like “Oh, I don’t know anything about them and good luck finding someone who does.” As far as becoming an expert sometime down the road, well, I doubt it, but I will know a bunch about an Evinrude 35 Lark and I would gladly share what knowledge I have with anyone out there. I only wish I had reached out to the AOMC sooner, as maybe my boat would be in the water by now. Thanks guys, I can now see the light at the end of the tunnel.
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