July 11, 2020 at 2:29 pm #208332
Well, my two previous posted topics turned out to be non-issues (sort-of, all part of the learned curve I guess). I have a new one. Yesterday when I was able to get the old girl up and running again after a long and deep slumber, I had a problem with my cruis a day gas tank and my new fuel line/bulb kit. When I attached the fuel line connector to the gas tank, I had a sloppy fit. There was a gap of maybe 1/16 inch, resulting in a considerable air leak and a modest fuel leak. I then tried my old fuel line/bulb unit connectors and had the same loose fit. I can only assume that there is a gasket or o-ring that I am missing. Am I right? I have attached two pics, one showing the gap when they are connected and one of the gas tank connector, I guess you would call it the male end. Thoughts?
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US Member - 2 Years
Topics: 39July 11, 2020 at 3:15 pm #208336
You say your motor is a ’58. So someone has changed it over from a two line pressure tank? That happens anyway the only place it can leak is where the O ring is on the end of the hose connector. The two small pins vent the tank when the connector is hooked up. Make sure the O ring is there and not damaged or cracked.
daleJuly 11, 2020 at 3:32 pm #208338
It is a single line setup, motor has fuel pump. I’m missing the O ring, I guess.July 11, 2020 at 5:04 pm #208340
’58 Lark, right? Yes, they had a single line tank..Your fit probably is ok. See those two little pins that get pushed in when you attach the connector? One is a fuel valve and the other one is a vent valve. The one with a tiny brass washer around it is the fuel valve. There is a micro-sized o-ring behind that brass washer. I’ll just about guarantee that teensy o-ring is shot. That lets it suck air and slop gas out.
The o-ring is replaceable by knocking the core plug out of the backside. There are two sizes of the tiny o-ring. ’58 uses the smallest size. There is another o-ring in there too. Replace both.
July 11, 2020 at 5:13 pm #208342
- This reply was modified 4 weeks ago by frankr.
“Knocking” probably was a poor choice of words. Knock a hole in it with a small punch, and pry it out,sounds better.
US Member - 2 Years
Topics: 67July 11, 2020 at 6:14 pm #208352
By chance do you have the metric fuel line connector meant for Yamaha and some Mercury models? The hole is a little bit bigger and will fit sloppy. The connectors look the same.
If your tank is also a 1958 or slightly newer, it will leak out the vent when you connect the line if the tank is really full, because it’s a 2-way vent, activated by the pn that pushes inwhen you attach the connector. This was corrected a few years later by having the vent be one-way, which did allow the tank to build up vapor presure inside, but they no longer leaked gas if the tank was full. So if you have this early tank, either you don’t fill it quite all the way, or you get a newer tank.
DaveJuly 11, 2020 at 7:05 pm #208356
US Member - 2 Years
Topics: 67July 11, 2020 at 10:04 pm #208368
I may have learned something here – I thought all the early single line tanks would leak there if they were full. I’ll have to look for #18 in the future.
DaveJuly 18, 2020 at 2:06 pm #209014
Well, my o-rings came in – the really, really small one (305862) and the two bigger ones (305857). The small one (#18 in frankr’s link) goes on the narrowed diameter space just behind the conical end? Regarding the other two (#22 in the link) – I have to remove the core plugs? Can you give me some more guidance on how to remove them? And when I have replaced the o-rings, I just tap the core plugs back in? Thanks, I appreciate the help.July 18, 2020 at 2:55 pm #209019
1. Remove the core plug. Do that by poking a hole through it with a hammer and small punch, say about 3/32″. Now with the punch still in the hole, rock it to one side, which will lever the core plug out.
2. Push the valve pin out through the opening you just created. A spring will come with it. Pick the o-ring out of the hole.
3. Where the pin was, is a small brass washer. Lever it out like you did the core plug. With the brass washer out, you will see the teensy o-ring. Pick it out.
4. Put a new teensy o-ring in, followed by the brass washer. “Stake” the washer in by upsetting the aluminum around the washer with a hammer and screwdriver. It doesn’t take much, just enough to sort of dent it. You will see how it was dented (staked) originally.
5. Back to the core plug end, put in a new o-ring, followed by the pin and spring.
6. Now, the new core plug. Insert a new one, dome side out. With a hammer and suitable large flat-ended tool. flatten the dome till it is flat. Warning, don’t go beyond flat or it will loosen up again and fall out.
7. Replace the o-ring behind the air vent pin in a similar fashion. You know how to do it by now.
8. I could do the whole job in less time than it took to type all this.
July 19, 2020 at 10:52 am #209126
- This reply was modified 3 weeks, 1 day ago by frankr.
Thank you for the very detailed guidance. A follow-up question – when I look at the parts diagram, it looks like the teensy o-ring fits on the outside of the housing (possibly just behind the conical end). But apparently not. The fuel valve pin assembly has two o-rings (the teensy one and one of the larger) and the air valve pin assembly has just the larger o-ring. Am I correct? I just ordered two core plugs so I can’t do the job until they come in. As I stated in my opening post, the fit between my new fuel line kit (hose /bulb/end connectors) is quite sloppy (as in loose) where it connects to the tank. Replacing the o-rings and core plugs will not change the loose fit (I don’t believe). The loose fit is OK? as long as it doesn’t leak air or gas?
You must be logged in to access attached files.July 19, 2020 at 11:10 am #209128
The o-ring are accessed exactly as the diagram shows. Removing the core plug and pin & spring allows you to get the larger o-ring. Once the pin is out, you can remove the little brass washer and the little o-ring which is behind the brass washer.
I don’t expect a tight fit-up of the hose connector. Unless it is exceedingly loose, it is normal. If it is exceedingly loose, it is a worn-out or incorrect hose connector, not the tank fitting.July 19, 2020 at 11:37 am #209129
Thanks. I wish somebody offered a tank fitting rebuilding kit (all three o-rings plus the core plugs), as all parts are necessary to do the job.July 28, 2020 at 4:52 pm #210172
Frankr – I’m doing the o-ring job on the fuel tank fitting/connector (thank you for the step by step directions) and I have a coupe questions. The small brass washer and teensy o-ring – I’m assuming they come out at their end (not pushed out thru the core plug end? Also, with the new o-ring in, the spring (and pin) don’t seem to want to go all the way in. The spring appears to be getting hung up on the o-ring and won’t reach it’s destination. I don’t want to try to force it. Ideas?
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