6039 Speeditwin Drive Shaft Bearing Race

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  • Buccaneer
    Buccaneer

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 3269
    Topics: 910
    #187238

    I got the new bearing and race today for the drive shaft.
    I tried putting in the race four different times but I
    can’t seem to get it started straight. I’m not trying
    to put it in a “dirty hole” as the photo might suggest.
    I’ve been using “all thread”, washers, and nuts, to
    try to draw the race into the bore through the drive shaft
    galley.
    I’m using the old bearing in the new race, thinking it will keep the
    race square to the bore, but no luck so far.

    Is it necessary to heat the gear case “race area” while
    installing the race?

    I wouldn’t think that close of tolerance would be necessary.
    The new race does measure as the exact same OD as the old one.
    It’s rather a pain getting the crooked race back out each time. 🙁
    Thoughts? Thanks.

    DSCN8306-1

    Prepare to be boarded!

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    RICHARD A. WHITE
    RICHARD A. WHITE

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 1676
    Topics: 131
    #187241

    OR freeze the race….

    http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com

    Tubs
    Tubs

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 2494
    Topics: 149
    #187250

    Be sure you haven’t but a bur in there and try both.

    • This reply was modified 3 weeks, 6 days ago by TubsTubs.
    • This reply was modified 3 weeks, 6 days ago by TubsTubs.
    Buccaneer
    Buccaneer

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 3269
    Topics: 910
    #187260

    I got the race in finally this morning after two tries. Sanded the bore with a scrap of
    sand paper, pushing it back and forth with a pencil, eraser end. That didn’t give
    me any luck getting the race in, so I mounted the race in the lathe, using an
    arbor of sorts, and polished it down about .001 of an inch.
    Then re-tried, and it felt like it was starting straight by “feel” this time, so I hooked up my
    all thread affair and drew it into the bore with no problem.
    Cheating, perhaps, but no one with know but me, and I’m sure you
    won’t tell anyone!

    Prepare to be boarded!

    mercuryman
    mercuryman

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 360
    Topics: 134
    #187263

    I think I have your prop shaft check your PM

    Buccaneer
    Buccaneer

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 3269
    Topics: 910
    #187280

    I think I have your prop shaft check your PM

    Email sent. Thanks.

    Prepare to be boarded!

    Buccaneer
    Buccaneer

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 3269
    Topics: 910
    #187281

    So now that I have the drive shaft bearing race installed, I wanted
    to install the prop shaft bearing race before I paint the lower unit.
    I installed the same thickness of shims under the driveshaft race
    that were under the old race. As much trouble it was to get the
    race “out and in”, I’m hoping not to have to monkey with that again.
    Assuming there’s a little wear on the gears, I might need more
    shims under the prop shaft gear to end up with minimal backlash.
    Which leads to the problem, that if I don’t have the correct thickness
    of shims under the new propshaft race, I’d have to remove the race
    and “try again”. There’s no built in provision in the gear housing
    to be able to get under the race to pull it back out, and the race
    does not just drop in the bore. (is it suppose to?) I know some
    gear housings have notches to allow one to get under the race
    to use some type of puller.
    Should I just add an extra few thousands worth of shims to
    allow for gear wear, and “Hope for the Best”?
    How did Evinrude suggest removing the races in these Speeditwins?
    I’m not sure what the purpose of the gear case nose “plug” is, but
    even if I managed to drive it out, I don’t see that hole in being of
    any help removing the new race if I have to.
    Ideas, Thoughts?
    Thanks.

    DSCN8342

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    dave-bernard

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 935
    Topics: 11
    #187314

    How about making your own notches.

    Avatar
    garry-in-michigan

    Lifetime Member
    Replies: 3312
    Topics: 30
    #187323

    Several special tools were used in final assembly. It helped that the units had not yet been subjected to abuse or corrosion. The installation tool pushed against the perimeter of the race as pushing on the taper had a tendency to increase the diameter. The extractor was a thick pipe of sorts split into six sections and tapered toward the end leaving a lip at the end to catch the inner diameter of the race when expanded with a cone shaped center section. After a few hundred gear cases the technician knew from the ware pattern of the white grease used just how many of various thickness of shims were needed to center the contact pattern on the gear teeth. Not having a lathe, I used my Dremel tool to remove enough material to use a three jawed expansion puller on my slide hammer. Most of the time just tightening the jaws is enough to pop it loose. (I am not above modifying existing tools to do the job) It also worked well with pulling worn shaft seals.

    Buccaneer
    Buccaneer

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 3269
    Topics: 910
    #187335

    Thanks for the suggestions. I will investigate your ideas and see what
    I can come up with.

    Prepare to be boarded!

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