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I got the new bearing and race today for the drive shaft.
I tried putting in the race four different times but I
can’t seem to get it started straight. I’m not trying
to put it in a “dirty hole” as the photo might suggest.
I’ve been using “all thread”, washers, and nuts, to
try to draw the race into the bore through the drive shaft
galley.
I’m using the old bearing in the new race, thinking it will keep the
race square to the bore, but no luck so far.Is it necessary to heat the gear case “race area” while
installing the race?I wouldn’t think that close of tolerance would be necessary.
The new race does measure as the exact same OD as the old one.
It’s rather a pain getting the crooked race back out each time. 🙁
Thoughts? Thanks.
Prepare to be boarded!
So now that I have the drive shaft bearing race installed, I wanted
to install the prop shaft bearing race before I paint the lower unit.
I installed the same thickness of shims under the driveshaft race
that were under the old race. As much trouble it was to get the
race “out and in”, I’m hoping not to have to monkey with that again.
Assuming there’s a little wear on the gears, I might need more
shims under the prop shaft gear to end up with minimal backlash.
Which leads to the problem, that if I don’t have the correct thickness
of shims under the new propshaft race, I’d have to remove the race
and “try again”. There’s no built in provision in the gear housing
to be able to get under the race to pull it back out, and the race
does not just drop in the bore. (is it suppose to?) I know some
gear housings have notches to allow one to get under the race
to use some type of puller.
Should I just add an extra few thousands worth of shims to
allow for gear wear, and “Hope for the Best”?
How did Evinrude suggest removing the races in these Speeditwins?
I’m not sure what the purpose of the gear case nose “plug” is, but
even if I managed to drive it out, I don’t see that hole in being of
any help removing the new race if I have to.
Ideas, Thoughts?
Thanks.
Prepare to be boarded!
Several special tools were used in final assembly. It helped that the units had not yet been subjected to abuse or corrosion. The installation tool pushed against the perimeter of the race as pushing on the taper had a tendency to increase the diameter. The extractor was a thick pipe of sorts split into six sections and tapered toward the end leaving a lip at the end to catch the inner diameter of the race when expanded with a cone shaped center section. After a few hundred gear cases the technician knew from the ware pattern of the white grease used just how many of various thickness of shims were needed to center the contact pattern on the gear teeth. Not having a lathe, I used my Dremel tool to remove enough material to use a three jawed expansion puller on my slide hammer. Most of the time just tightening the jaws is enough to pop it loose. (I am not above modifying existing tools to do the job) It also worked well with pulling worn shaft seals.
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