’62 5.5 Fisherman won’t idle

Home › Forum › Ask A Member › ’62 5.5 Fisherman won’t idle

Viewing 10 posts - 11 through 20 (of 22 total)
1 2 3
  • Author
    Posts
  • September 11, 2016 at 11:48 pm #43848
    amuller
    Participant

      I did not take out the plug (#27)just used a lot of compressed air and carb cleaner. The carb didn’t have corrosion, just gunk, so I thought it would be OK. I didn’t check the crankcase drain as it’s not readily accessible on these motors. Could be plugged.
      Not sure what you mean about "leaky fuel pump." Leaky in what sense? I’ve been into the pump and it has a homemade diaphragm in it.

      The good news is that I also started the 1957 12 hp Elgin (West Bend) and it runs nicely if noisily. I am not sure the water pump is picking up its prime on every start. Someone was complaining about the performance of Sierra impellers in these motors?

      Agree with everything about fine tuning the ignition.
      Someone just sold a batch of Sierra (red atom, I presume) ignition modules on ebay for $12.50 each.

      September 12, 2016 at 12:13 am #43850
      fleetwin
      Participant

        US Member - 2 Years

        Well, if the fuel pump diaphragm is leaking, it is allowing fuel to be pulled into the cylinder it is ported into…..Seems like a possibility if someone has been into that pump before you…
        Like I say, my theory is easy enough to investigate without ripping that pump apart again. Get the engine running, then pull the fuel hose off and let it run. As the fuel in the lines and pump is used up, there will be no more fuel in the pump to leak into that cylinder, idle performance will improve as the affected cylinder is no longer being flooded by the fuel pump.
        Keep in mind that most engines will pick up a little RPM just as the carb is running out of fuel, don’t confuse this with the fuel pump flooding issue I am describing.

        September 12, 2016 at 1:17 am #43859
        amuller
        Participant

          OK, i get it. There is a new diaphragm in it and I checked it for leakage, but it’s also a homemade item. I can try the test you suggest.

          September 12, 2016 at 5:44 pm #43892
          amuller
          Participant

            I will order these tools. But, I suspect high precision point setting will be futile if the mag plate is loose on the engine block. I checked one and there was about 0.005 in radial play and more up and down wobble. There was a thread on tightening this connection up but I can’t find it now. Anyone have a link to it?

            September 12, 2016 at 6:20 pm #43897
            Doug Wilson
            Participant

              US Member - 2 Years

              Make sure the gear coming from the throttle has not been jumped a tooth or two will throw the mag off a bit and could cause it to shut down before you mean for it to.

              Doug

              how is it motors multiply when the garage lights get
              turned off?

              September 29, 2016 at 10:00 pm #44947
              amuller
              Participant

                I finally got back to this and replaced the float, needle and seat, and bowl gasket. It’s running a lot better now and seems ready for a trial and adjustment on the back of a boat.

                The compression is about 85 psi in both. Is this normal for this engine or should I be looking for an increase?

                It also still acts as if the twist throttle is off a tooth, but the two bevel gears seem to come to the last tooth together.

                J4Js are of course the standard plug for these. Is this still the best choice? It has J6Cs in it now.

                I also notice it seems to load up sometimes and send a cloud of smoke across my backyard. So I’m still wondering about the possibility of the crankcase drain system being plugged. Being that there is no separate cover for the drain reeds on this motor, is there an effective way to confirm that this system is or is not working?

                Thanks!

                September 29, 2016 at 11:41 pm #44953
                fisherman6
                Participant

                  US Member - 2 Years

                  Glad to hear it is running well enough to boat test now. 85psi on both is quite respectable for one of these motors. I recently worked on a ’63 and it was about 88 on both with my gauge. Gauges could easily be off that much and how you pull the rope makes amlittle.difference too. Equal at 85 psi should make a fine running 5.5.

                  It’s certainly possible the gear teeth are off a cog. I usually don’t pay too much attention to where the pointer is on the ring. The important thing is that the mag is moving through the full path when the grip is turned from stop to stop. The other important thing is that the throttle cam starts opening the throttle at the right time during the spark advance.

                  I use J6Cs in all my classic OMCs from 2hp to 18hp. I have used J4Cs too and they are fine as long as you are not trolling for extended periods amd the engine is in a good state of tune. I like to troll sometimes so I stick with the J6Cs with great success.

                  Not sure about the crankcase drain and the loading up symptom. It kind of makes sense but I have not experienced this yet on the motors I have worked on. I have become pretty decent at the 5.5s and 6s, but I sure don’t claim to know all there is to know about them. The number of them I have done is small compared to many here. Hope this helps some.
                  -Ben

                  OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

                  September 29, 2016 at 11:53 pm #44955
                  amuller
                  Participant

                    Thanks, Ben. This motor has consumed many more hours of fiddling than I originally expected, but if it turns out to be a good runner it will have been worth it….

                    September 30, 2016 at 12:29 am #44958
                    fisherman6
                    Participant

                      US Member - 2 Years

                      I certainly understand spending way too may hours of fiddling on a motor you didn’t expect to be a difficult one to get going. I have that happen more often than I care to say. I will offer this also. If you keep having idling issues and you have checked all the other ideas here you may want to get back to the carb. I have had a few lately that I have had to soak in Chem Dip. I have become a believer in that stuff as a carb cleaner. I dip them all now as a matter of course. After it comes out of the dip it gets sprayed out with aerosol cleaner and blown out with compressed air. I always replace the packing a well. Make sure the packing is snug and the needles don’t turn too easily. If they do they may be leaking enough to mess with your mixture.
                      -Ben

                      OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

                      September 30, 2016 at 1:53 am #44964
                      fleetwin
                      Participant

                        US Member - 2 Years

                        OK, so am assuming you have confirmed that the fuel pump is not leaking back into the crankcase. I have never really heard of the drain system plugging up on one of these engines, but it is surely possible, perhaps a manufacturing defect, anything is possible. I guess I would start by looking at the intake manifold a little closer. Does it look like the manifold has been off before? New gaskets in place? If so, then perhaps someone mistakenly used sealer on the gaskets and plugged up the drain port. I don’t know if I would mess with the manifold if it looks untouched, until I exhausted simpler possibilities. Recheck carb/ignition, make sure the engine is getting up to temperature.

                      • Author
                        Posts
                      Viewing 10 posts - 11 through 20 (of 22 total)
                      1 2 3
                      • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.