Home Forum Ask A Member 7.5 Mercury carb float inlet needle

Viewing 5 posts - 1 through 5 (of 5 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #279693
    outbdnut2
    Participant

      US Member

      I’m working on a 7.5 Mercury (SN: 4089644) for a neighbor, and the carb was flooding. See link below for the carb it has. I’m confused by the parts lists. I went to order a float valve needle and seat, but found the seat is pressed in and not replaceable – Ok – the seat looks good anyway, and appears to be working. The needle shows as part number 1399-6141, but the description in the parts list (link attached, part #13), calls it a “Needle and spring” , although no spring shows in the photo. What I got shipped to me (and maybe when I ordered it a year ago I looked it up wrong, or maybe the part was substituted – I don’t have the paperwork any more, or maybe the spring is supposed to show on the part per the description in the parts list?) what I got was was part number 1395-9022 that does have a spring in one end. I put that in and the carb still floods. I tried adjusting the float a bit lower, and still floods when it’s running and also floods if I over-pump the primer bulb. On the bench, I can blow into the fuel line with the carb right-side up and not with it up-side down, so the float and valve are working. I’m trying to get it so it doesn’t drool out gas through the carb throat when I slightly over-pump the primer bulb after it is firm. I think if I can get to that point, it will no longer drool out the carb when it’s running and then quit.

      The rest of the carb is clean and everything looks like it’s in good shape.

      Should I be using the needle with the spring? The one that was in it has no spring…..or is that a no-no in this carb? With the spring, is the float level adjustment different than without the spring? If so, how do set it?
      Thanks,
      Dave
      Link to carb parts list below, looked up by serial number of motor:
      https://www.marineengine.com/parts/mercury-outboard-parts/75/3801458-thru-4851692-usa/carburetor-assembly-complete

      #279700
      crosbyman
      Participant

        Canada Member - 2 Years

        sounds like the blow test is fine  and it should close up when full

        could the pump be at fault  for some reason. …

        since it is all self contained (pump-carb)  try to  take off the carb and do your testing on the bench.   …ventilate the place !!!

        check the float for snagging on the edges  when assembled and filling with fuel…even if the blow test works fine.   check float… .flotation

         

        check float drop

         

        got the book ??  section  4b pages 265 and up covers that carb.

        Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

        #279716
        seakaye12
        Participant

          US Member

          I looked at the Marine Engine page and did you notice that there are two different needle assemblies listed…..choose based on Country of Manufacture and Serial Number.  One has a spring and the other doesn’t.

          Mercarb-Needle

           

          #279720
          outbdnut2
          Participant

            US Member

            I looked at the Marine Engine page and did you notice that there are two different needle assemblies listed…..choose based on Country of Manufacture and Serial Number.  One has a spring and the other doesn’t.

            Mercarb-Needle

             

            Thanks! – That explains a lot! I didn’t scroll down to the 2nd needle which is no spring, and that’s where the serial number fits. I ordered the wrong one! I get tin too big a hurry sometimes looking thngs up! I’ll et the right one and hopefully that fixes it.
            Dave

            #279768
            billw
            Participant

              US Member

              That’s always been a vague area. For what it’s worth, here is what the book says. You just hold it upside down and adjust the tab. The weight of the float doesn’t compress the spring. Keep in mind with those swept-back Mercs, that the carb is at quite the angle, when you run the motor in a tank. Sometimes it helps to wedge the clamp brackets back, to better simulate the angle of a boat’s transom.

              Long live American manufacturing!

            Viewing 5 posts - 1 through 5 (of 5 total)
            • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.