Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 80’s/90’s 50hp opinions?
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johnyrude200.
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November 20, 2015 at 6:30 am #3014
Right now this size motor is outside my experience level, but I am actively searching for one of these to put on my personal vessel. I’m cool with working on the motor so I know I can maintain it mechanically, but wanted to ask folks what they thought of these motors, what years are better, common problems/engineering shortcomings, etc.
I’m guessing the gear case and powerhead are fairly straight forward, along with the ignition, but wondering about the fuel and cooling systems.
Thanks.
November 20, 2015 at 10:44 am #27400We never saw a ton of them in our area. However, I do seem to remember that the gear cases require a fair amount of special tools. There is one screw on the outside of the gear case that you definitely DON’T want to take out by accident, when changing the oil. (This would be pretty obvious to us, but not necessarily the customer.) Also, it seems to me that the 90s had a lot more plastic parts, including carb parts, that were, in my opinion, less than adequate. I never thought they had a good idle, either. But again, we didn’t do many of them, thankfully.
Other than that, they’re great! Lol.
Long live American manufacturing!
November 20, 2015 at 11:33 am #27402Well
my pick would be the 1980-1988 models. Stick with the non oil injected, although the injection is easily cancelled if that is what you want. The only downfall of these engines is the small gearcase, fine for normal rigs but a bit light duty for heavier rigs/skiing, etc.
These engines were redesigned in 1999, and I was never a big fan. Yes, the split plastic pans come off easily giving good access to everything for repairs, and changing the thermostat is a simple too. But, these engine got the lousy plastic top carbs and a ridiculously complex sync procedure. The early ones also got the lousy UFI ignition (powerpack under flywheel), making pack replacement a royal pain. The manual tilt system is unreliable and the parts are very expensive. The gearcase has a cheesy plastic shift rod cover that is quickly consumed in salt water, otherwise this gearcase is more robust than the 1980-1988 models.
One good reason to consider the 1989 and later models is if you need power trim/tilt. The newer motors have a nice system, and repair parts are available. The 1980-88 models had an external add on system that won’t stand up in salt water, and it will be harder to repair/find parts for.November 20, 2015 at 12:27 pm #27404To add to what Don saye’s about the under flywheel powerpack, the mag plate on those engines tend to have worn bushings causing the coils to rub on the flywheel. When you remove the cowling, look under the flywheel for metal dust, usually gold in color. Of course that can all be repaired but it will cost some bucks.
November 20, 2015 at 12:56 pm #27405I had read somewhere online by a used motor company, that they only sell the 80’s models for the reason that the transom brackets were prone to failure on the later models. Interesting that you have observed the same thing.
In terms of usage, this would only be used in fresh water, perhaps brackish (infrequently), and I am religious in terms of flushing/hosing/rinsing down every time after exposure to salt. Granted, flushing only goes so far. I noticed my 2014 Etec is showing some signs of salt exposure (and I use it fairly regularly in salt and fresh water). There is salt leaching out through the head gasket (not dramatic, but I can see it), and when I pulled the gearcase off to change the impeller the 6 screws holding it on were starting to show some salt build up. Easily remedied in 5 minutes using a wire brush wheel and anti-seize gasket compound generously.
The impeller housing showed no signs of salt build up and everything else appears OK, but nonetheless it makes me wonder if there is build up in the cooling jacket/powerhead.
I surmise salt’s most dangerous potential is exposure to that water, letting it dry to crystallize, repeat. I am guessing that if the motor sits exposed to air after being yanked from the water, say, for 24 hours, that really isn’t long enough to let things get to the crystal stage, but who knows. That’s about as long as it takes *max* for me to get home and run it in a barrel (generally for 10-15 minutes) while I hose my whole boat down inside and out.
November 20, 2015 at 1:18 pm #27406Most people don’t understand salt. The crystallized stuff isn’t the real problem, other than it draws moisture. The real problem is the white corrosion, especially around fasteners ect. That white stuff is not salt, it is your precious aluminum destroyed by salt. Plain water will dissolve and rinse away salt crystals. Nothing known to man will dissolve that corrosion without also eating more aluminum.
November 20, 2015 at 1:43 pm #27407Might be a good separate thread…will start it!
November 20, 2015 at 1:53 pm #27408Excellent teaching points by you guys…
November 20, 2015 at 2:15 pm #27409I have a 1984 40hp Johnson and a 1984 50hp parts motor. The 40hp motor is absolutely indestructible. I love that thing but I don’t currently have a boat to put it on so it lives in my shed. When I was running it on a regular basis, it never let me down. Plenty of power for a 40 but it was a little bit thirsty if I recall correctly.
Rob
Rob
November 20, 2015 at 6:03 pm #27424CDI makes a kit to remove the UFI system which I highly recommend. Puts the power pack back in its original location from years past. I like the 1989 models forward for the trim system alone, but the removable pans are a plus also. The carbs are not much fun , but can be changed out as an assy to the older ones of simular horsepower. The two cylinder OMC engine never idled as smoothly as the four cylinder Merc, but was lighter and had much better fuel economy.
Dan in TN
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