Home › Forum › Ask A Member › ’83 ERude E5RHCTA 4.5 hp carb tune-up literature
- This topic has 26 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 5 months ago by johnyrude200.
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June 18, 2015 at 1:36 am #1783
Greetings All Experts;
First time needing help here in the new forum format. I inherited the above motor from my father and it needs the usual carb rebuild as all is original and now it is acting up. Was just wondering if someone can point me in the right direction for the rebuild and slow speed setting literature. I have the parts diagram. The slow speed will only seat at 3/4 of a turn in and that doesn’t seem to be the norm when setting up the initial 1.5 to 1.25 out starting point. So that’s about all for know. Hope to hear from someone.Thanks all,
DonaldJune 18, 2015 at 2:02 am #18326Am confused by what you mean: "the slow speed will only seat at 3/4 turn in…".
Is the carb dirty/gummy inside? Is the metal bowl rusted/gummy? If so, you will need to spring for the over priced $30 carb bowl and carb kit:
carb bowl: 330881 $34
carb kit: 439072 $25
Did you remove and clean the fixed high speed jet?
Please post pictures if that will help us clarify things for you.June 18, 2015 at 2:22 am #18333Thanks fleetwin for the quick response. I don’t have anything apart yet. Kit comes tomorrow. And I did order the 439072 kit. I meant to say that one usually starts with the slow speed needle at startup. However this model only has the low speed "Lean / Rich" knob. Was just wondering how much to back it out at startup and where should it be set for slow speed /trolling. The full travel for that needle is only 3/4 turn in seated. Hope this clarifies things. Thanks again.
Donald
June 18, 2015 at 2:34 am #18336Donald
OK, I think I understand what you are saying. You can only turn the low speed needle 3/4 of a turn. This is because their is a stop on the plastic knob that keeps it from turning more than that. That stop is easily overcome by simply pulling the plastic knob off the low speed needle and resetting it in a different position.
You can also defeat the stop on the plastic knob by not pushing the knob completely onto the needle, then turning it.
Yes, I would start with an initial setting of 1.5 turns out from gently seated. You can loosen the packing nut slightly to make it easier to turn the needle. Retighten/snug the packing nut once the initial setting has been set/confirmed.June 18, 2015 at 2:39 am #18339quote seahorsedad:The full travel for that needle is only 3/4 turn in seated. Hope this clarifies things.Not for me. Do you mean that it only travels 3/4 turn from the point the thread engages, to the point in rotation where it contacts the seat? In other words, the needle falls out after turning 270′ CCW from seated?
If so, that’s not right.. you’re missing a lot of thread in that needle bore.
All this aside, what makes you think it needs a ‘rebuild’ – did a basic disassembly & cleaning fail to clear the fault(s)? Did you find perished, worn or ruined parts?
In my experience, the vast majority of successful carb ‘rebuilds’ succeed due to the requisite cleaning, inspection and adjustment, rather than parts replacement. Sunk floats are an exception, of course.. but then again, that’s just a single part..
June 18, 2015 at 3:16 am #18347Thanks again fleetwin for the help, truly appreciated. I will start from there. legendre, thanks for looking in. I think it needs a rebuild ’cause it won’t stay running after setting for 2 years. Hard to start, fiddling with choke positions to get it from Slow to Fast and heading up to Fast it cuts out. As I first posted, not apart yet, kit arrives tomorrow. My father never had it cleaned when he had it but 2 yrs. now it has set. Now I understand about the slow speed knob function fleetwin. Thanks again.
Sincerely,
DonaldJune 18, 2015 at 12:01 pm #18357sounds good, be sure to clean out the little fixed high speed jet that is screwed into the bottom of the carb nozzle. Be very careful with it, clean it with carb cleaner letting it soak. Don’t stick anything through the jet trying to clean it out, you may deform the precise opening.
June 18, 2015 at 1:35 pm #18361Thanks again fleetwin for the tips, truly appreciated. Now that I have the concept of the Slow Speed knob all should go well. I previously was in the old forum for a CD-15 5.5 hp carb rebuild and that went well also with your input and other experts. Thanks again if I get hung up, I’ll look you up otherwise I’ll post back with results. Have a Great Day.
Donald
June 18, 2015 at 10:20 pm #18401So I am reading from one person that a 32 year old engine just needs a single part in a carb?
Since that engine was built the OEM carb kits have changed materials to become alcohol resistant.
For that reason alone it would be worth a full kit rebuild. Am wondering about the level of experience here ……….
Once again "Sage" advice is much better than "Dandy Lyin" Pure post count sure doesn’t make up for
knowledge and experience.June 18, 2015 at 11:08 pm #18404Howdy Pappy,
quote Pappy:So I am reading from one person that a 32 year old engine just needs a single part in a carb?No, that’s not what I said at all.. read my post again, and take it in as a whole. Don’t simply cherry-pick and amplify one statement as if it constitutes the sole, salient point of the complete comment. I basically stated that the common ingredient in so very many successful carburetor "rebuilds" was and is, in fact, the requisite detailed disassembly, cleaning, re-assembly and adjustment.
Do you still challenge that basic statement?
quote :Since that engine was built the OEM carb kits have changed materials to become alcohol resistant.Alcohol in fuels has been a "problem" since the early 1980s, so there’s no reason to automatically determine that a carb from that era would be completely susceptible to damage. I used the scare quotes around problem in the previous sentence, to emphasize the fact that in all of my experience cleaning, repairing & rebuilding older carbs, the number I’ve seen genuinely damaged by alcohol-tainted fuels could be counted on one hand.
The total number of samples, by the way, would approach 1,000 as of this writing. Their range of manufacture would span from the mid-late 1930s through the early 1990s, with the bulk falling in the 1970-1985 range.
quote :For that reason alone it would be worth a full kit rebuild.You’re painting with a broad brush here, and again, I must disagree with you. What ever happened to "If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!"? Why on earth would you ‘shotgun’ any piece of equipment – I don’t care if it’s a double-hung window, an old carburetor or a piece of vintage electronics – without first doing a proper and workmanlike disassembly and inspection? That’s just lazy, and wasteful of resources.
quote :Am wondering about the level of experience here ……….Why? You already know that the bulk of my mechanical experience lies in motorcycles, small engines, industrial engines and domestic cars & trucks. Despite the fact that I hold a vocational "Motorcycle and Marine Technician" cert, my OBM experience is rather limited, though I’m picking up the idiosyncrasies every day.
quote :Pure post count sure doesn’t make up for knowledge and experience.This time I can’t see any reason to disagree. What a relief for both of us, lol.
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