February 18, 2020 at 6:06 pm #195302
I know this motor may not be classified as an antique but, I’m looking for knowledge on how the lower unit may come off the outboard. I have ordered a manual and it will be arriving Friday but, I cant keep my hands off of this thing. I’ve done water pumps on various OMC products and mostly they haven’t given me a hard time. Anyhow very little verifiable information is available online. ALOT of it has been misinformation. This is a short shaft motor with no bells and whistles. The lower unit appears to be an earlier vintage than 1989. From pictures I would estimate it to be late 60’s to mid 70’s. It has an angular shaped cavitation plate. No window into the shifter linkage. No through prop exhaust but is a spline type shaft. 4 bolts upward into the shaft housing with a nut and washer right above the high speed pickup. Take them out nothing moves. Seems the shifter linkage is holding me up. I do not see access to any linkage retainers. Looks like the powerhead has to come off but, I am having a hard time swallowing that pill. Can anyone verify the process? The motor is a cream puff, runs great and pumps water. I really don’t want to tear this outboard apart but, The water does not make it to the indicator which partially runs through the block. It seems someone did an impeller and misaligned the tube that runs up the shaft housing. Ive repaired this issue before on a 80’s 9.9 rude but that was so simple. This one a little different. Anything you guys got Id really appreciate.. Thanks beforehand
US Member - 2 Years
Topics: 18February 18, 2020 at 8:12 pm #195305
Found a parts diagram: http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1989&hp=14&model=VJ14RCEC
Has a traditional shift rod connector, but no obvious way to access it!
http://www.aerocraft-boats.orgFebruary 18, 2020 at 9:13 pm #195308
Yeah. I’m stumped. You gave me more info than I had. It’s kinda frustrating but intriguing. I need to replace the prop too. It’s banged up beyond what I would care for. It measures 8” unknown pitch. This manual and some prop companies show a 9 or 9 1/4” wheel as a replacement. I haven’t had the free time to call the manufacturer for more info but that’s in the near future. (Got this thing Sunday afternoon). It really just seems like these things were tossed together and sold in limited numbers in the 14. Regardless I’m happy to own it and I’ll figure it out. Thanks for the link. I still may have to subscribe if the manual I ordered is vague about how to do this.February 18, 2020 at 9:15 pm #195309
You say it won’t budge at all? Most likely the rear stud — the one you took the nut off of —- is seized. Once you get that to turn loose, the gearcase will drop down about an inch, and you will find the shift rod disconnect in the gap.February 18, 2020 at 10:06 pm #195316
Well I will say it was definitely galled a bit. I sprayed it down with kroil and gave it some lovin with a wood block and a mallet. Shifted to reverse and forward to see if she will drop. Nothing. I worked it a while and had that feeling something is not right. I got a little motion out of it but a twisting motion not a dropping motion. I could absolutely be wrong suspecting anything but some good old corrosion but I just don’t want to damage anything else. Are you familiar with this motor? Like I was saying earlier it’s kind of a unique build with a mixed bag of tricks. Until I get it apart I feel like Im guessing which steps to take to get it apart. I haven’t taken any pictures yet. I will tomorrow and maybe someone will recognize the shaft housing and lower unit.February 18, 2020 at 10:09 pm #195317
I pray it will be that simple BTW. Thank you!!
Canada Member - 2 Years
Topics: 431February 18, 2020 at 10:41 pm #195324
The water tube coming out of the pump may be corroded in it’s rubber grommets. That will prevent it from separating easily. Also, the drive shaft splines may be corroded/rusted into the crankshaft but you can usually drop the gearcase a 1/4″ or so if they are.February 19, 2020 at 4:13 am #195328
Well I will say it was definitely galled a bit. I sprayed it down with kroil and gave it some lovin with a wood block and a mallet. Shifted to reverse and forward to see if she will drop. Nothing. I worked it a while and had that feeling something is not right. I got a little motion out of it but a twisting motion not a dropping motion. I could absolutely be wrong suspecting anything but some good old corrosion but I just don’t want to damage anything else. Are you familiar with this motor? Like I was saying earlier it’s kind of a unique build with a mixed bag of tricks. Until I get it apart I feel like Im guessing which steps to take to get it apart. I haven’t taken any pictures yet. I will tomorrow and maybe someone will recognize the shaft housing and lower unit.
Yeah,, I agree it is a conglomeration of design, more or less. Strange that the engineers put that rear stud where you would normally find a bolt. They should have known better. That’s the problem — they do stuff like that without talking or listening to us guys in the shop who have fought stuff like that for years in the past. Try getting an Electramatic Shift gearcase apart after it has been used in salt water 6 months. Normal procedure is with a hacksaw. Yes, some manuals actually do say that. But not the factory manuals.
OK, now that I’ve vented, on to the problem. There is nothing really strange about removing that lower unit. Everything to be said has already been said. If it isn’t the rear stud, it might be the drive shaft splines, but if is, one would expect it to move down at least a tiny bit. Either way, both are common problems and a royal PITA. The shift rod linkage is NOT keeping it from dropping down at least 3/4″. Powerhead removal is NOT required. In fact if the splines are rusted, you probably can’t even get the powerhead off.
If you can, post a picture of that rear stud area to refresh our memory.
And put away that mallet and block of wood before you bust the cavitation plate off.February 19, 2020 at 9:57 am #195341
I am going to get down to it soon. I’m hoping the kroil did something over night. Your confidence reinvigorated mine and I’ll keep on keeping on the original plan.
An old friend once said “tighten it until just before it gets loose again”. No truer words have ever been spoken.
I’ll post some pictures when I get down thereFebruary 19, 2020 at 11:00 am #195343
Looking at this with fresh eyes it’s clear the stud is galled in place. I’ll keep working it to free it up.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B125fk75v9dNaBFebruary 19, 2020 at 11:20 am #195350
Looking at the video, I’m not so sure you even have a water problem. It isn’t deep enough in the water bucket. Not to say it isn’t a good idea to replace the impeller “just because” maintenance.February 19, 2020 at 12:29 pm #195364
I do want to inspect the impeller but the indicator should be pushing some water. The water level was higher before I shot the video. I just assumed there is a misalignment with the tubing inside. That’s a common issue That results from not doing many water pumps and I figured it was worth the job to correct and inspect. Thanks for the information frank you’ve been real helpful. Just found a second nut that fits the stud and hopefully with a little love it comes out.
Topics: 4February 19, 2020 at 8:52 pm #195433
The water pump for this motor fits 25 HP motor 1979-1997 some standard and work models.
US Member - 2 Years
Topics: 38February 20, 2020 at 9:53 am #195448
Looking at the video, I’m not so sure you even have a water problem. It isn’t deep enough in the water bucket. Not to say it isn’t a good idea to replace the impeller “just because” maintenance.
I’m with Frank here…Looks like water is spraying from the exhaust. Perhaps the overboard indicator is just plugged up, which is very common. I would try blowing back through the overboard nipple with compressed air, or perhaps remove the plastic nipple. Have you run it long enough to see if it is actually overheating? In any event, this thing is a conglomeration of parts dating back the 60s. A pretty rare engine here in the states, I’m not sure the manual you ordered will be very helpful unless it is the actual factory manual.
In any event, I’m thinking that the rear stud is slightly corroded in place also. You might try threading the nut back on flush to the top of the stud. Then add some sort of metal shim small enough to fit between the stud and exhaust housing that will allow a crow bar to fit in between….Then gently work the crowbar, you may need some heat to help this process. Don’t force it too much to avoid damage to the housings and stud.
I’m surprised this larger gearcase uses the tricky shift rod connector that is hidden just inside the gearcase, only visible when you pry the gearcase down an inch of so.February 20, 2020 at 11:09 am #195457
Thanks fleettwinn for verifying. I was silent yesterday because I had no success. Been sprayed down for two days now. Yesterday got a set of nuts and double nutted the stud. Used regular steel nuts. Well then the nuts stripped. She ain’t moving. Also got a brass lump hammer. While trying to back out the stud with some tapping. Nothing. Last night I built up a dam around the stud with duct seal and filled it with kroil. I’ll get back on it this afternoon. Hopefully the deep soak helps. In reference to the indicator being plugged. That occurred To me after I ventured into this realm. That bucket was filled with salt away and water. Don’t know if that would help. It’s a distinct possibility but now I can’t leave this stud situation alone. Gotta get it out and replace it with some never seize added. Also I gotta inspect and make it all right. I’m being gentle now because I am trying to preserve the stud and lower unit paint. Another day of this and I’m gonna break out the torch and vice grips probably. Already have reverse drill bits ordered etc etc. I’m planning on running the balls off of this with my 6yo and 3 yo this summer. It’s gotta be right.
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