Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 89 Johnson 14spl M#VJ14RCEC
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Michael.
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February 18, 2020 at 6:06 pm #195302
I know this motor may not be classified as an antique but, I’m looking for knowledge on how the lower unit may come off the outboard. I have ordered a manual and it will be arriving Friday but, I cant keep my hands off of this thing. I’ve done water pumps on various OMC products and mostly they haven’t given me a hard time. Anyhow very little verifiable information is available online. ALOT of it has been misinformation. This is a short shaft motor with no bells and whistles. The lower unit appears to be an earlier vintage than 1989. From pictures I would estimate it to be late 60’s to mid 70’s. It has an angular shaped cavitation plate. No window into the shifter linkage. No through prop exhaust but is a spline type shaft. 4 bolts upward into the shaft housing with a nut and washer right above the high speed pickup. Take them out nothing moves. Seems the shifter linkage is holding me up. I do not see access to any linkage retainers. Looks like the powerhead has to come off but, I am having a hard time swallowing that pill. Can anyone verify the process? The motor is a cream puff, runs great and pumps water. I really don’t want to tear this outboard apart but, The water does not make it to the indicator which partially runs through the block. It seems someone did an impeller and misaligned the tube that runs up the shaft housing. Ive repaired this issue before on a 80’s 9.9 rude but that was so simple. This one a little different. Anything you guys got Id really appreciate.. Thanks beforehand
February 18, 2020 at 8:12 pm #195305Found a parts diagram: http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1989&hp=14&model=VJ14RCEC
Has a traditional shift rod connector, but no obvious way to access it!
http://www.omc-boats.org
http://www.aerocraft-boats.orgFebruary 18, 2020 at 9:13 pm #195308Yeah. I’m stumped. You gave me more info than I had. It’s kinda frustrating but intriguing. I need to replace the prop too. It’s banged up beyond what I would care for. It measures 8” unknown pitch. This manual and some prop companies show a 9 or 9 1/4” wheel as a replacement. I haven’t had the free time to call the manufacturer for more info but that’s in the near future. (Got this thing Sunday afternoon). It really just seems like these things were tossed together and sold in limited numbers in the 14. Regardless I’m happy to own it and I’ll figure it out. Thanks for the link. I still may have to subscribe if the manual I ordered is vague about how to do this.
February 18, 2020 at 9:15 pm #195309You say it won’t budge at all? Most likely the rear stud — the one you took the nut off of —- is seized. Once you get that to turn loose, the gearcase will drop down about an inch, and you will find the shift rod disconnect in the gap.
February 18, 2020 at 10:06 pm #195316Well I will say it was definitely galled a bit. I sprayed it down with kroil and gave it some lovin with a wood block and a mallet. Shifted to reverse and forward to see if she will drop. Nothing. I worked it a while and had that feeling something is not right. I got a little motion out of it but a twisting motion not a dropping motion. I could absolutely be wrong suspecting anything but some good old corrosion but I just don’t want to damage anything else. Are you familiar with this motor? Like I was saying earlier it’s kind of a unique build with a mixed bag of tricks. Until I get it apart I feel like Im guessing which steps to take to get it apart. I haven’t taken any pictures yet. I will tomorrow and maybe someone will recognize the shaft housing and lower unit.
February 18, 2020 at 10:09 pm #195317I pray it will be that simple BTW. Thank you!!
February 18, 2020 at 10:41 pm #195324The water tube coming out of the pump may be corroded in it’s rubber grommets. That will prevent it from separating easily. Also, the drive shaft splines may be corroded/rusted into the crankshaft but you can usually drop the gearcase a 1/4″ or so if they are.
February 19, 2020 at 4:13 am #195328Well I will say it was definitely galled a bit. I sprayed it down with kroil and gave it some lovin with a wood block and a mallet. Shifted to reverse and forward to see if she will drop. Nothing. I worked it a while and had that feeling something is not right. I got a little motion out of it but a twisting motion not a dropping motion. I could absolutely be wrong suspecting anything but some good old corrosion but I just don’t want to damage anything else. Are you familiar with this motor? Like I was saying earlier it’s kind of a unique build with a mixed bag of tricks. Until I get it apart I feel like Im guessing which steps to take to get it apart. I haven’t taken any pictures yet. I will tomorrow and maybe someone will recognize the shaft housing and lower unit.
Yeah,, I agree it is a conglomeration of design, more or less. Strange that the engineers put that rear stud where you would normally find a bolt. They should have known better. That’s the problem — they do stuff like that without talking or listening to us guys in the shop who have fought stuff like that for years in the past. Try getting an Electramatic Shift gearcase apart after it has been used in salt water 6 months. Normal procedure is with a hacksaw. Yes, some manuals actually do say that. But not the factory manuals.
OK, now that I’ve vented, on to the problem. There is nothing really strange about removing that lower unit. Everything to be said has already been said. If it isn’t the rear stud, it might be the drive shaft splines, but if is, one would expect it to move down at least a tiny bit. Either way, both are common problems and a royal PITA. The shift rod linkage is NOT keeping it from dropping down at least 3/4″. Powerhead removal is NOT required. In fact if the splines are rusted, you probably can’t even get the powerhead off.
If you can, post a picture of that rear stud area to refresh our memory.
And put away that mallet and block of wood before you bust the cavitation plate off.
February 19, 2020 at 9:57 am #195341I am going to get down to it soon. I’m hoping the kroil did something over night. Your confidence reinvigorated mine and I’ll keep on keeping on the original plan.
An old friend once said “tighten it until just before it gets loose again”. No truer words have ever been spoken.
I’ll post some pictures when I get down there
February 19, 2020 at 11:00 am #195343Looking at this with fresh eyes it’s clear the stud is galled in place. I’ll keep working it to free it up.
As requested:
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B125fk75v9dNaB -
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