US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 48February 20, 2020 at 11:21 am #195462
Salt Away??? Does that imply that motor was used in salt water? Well there ya go. That’s why the stud is solidly corroded in place.
Topics: 2February 20, 2020 at 12:04 pm #195463
Oh yeah. I forget that many boaters are in fresh water. Yeah south shore Long Island here. Motor came from Connecticut. Certainly that’s where the corrosion is from. Also the dissimilar metals. Oddly enough this motor never had a zinc on it. The paint is still intact. Clearly this motor sat in a garage until it was needed once or twice a year. Everything else is in excellent shape with very minimal rust. Salt away is a product I heard about a few years ago. Allegedly it washes away remnants of salt on surfaces. A lot of ppl use it to flush outboards on the regular. I do it for winterization minimally, usually followed by an antifreeze mix. The video I posted was dual purpose.
1. test the motor and see if there is anything I need to fix
2. Was to winterize it if it did run.
Both goals were hit. Now it’s just remaking some fuel line connections, drain replace Lower gear oil. Which BTW was fresh. From everything I’ve seen this motor was tuned fully before I bought it. Plugs are brand new etc etc. just this once nagging issue. Would it be good practice to replace this stud with a SS bolt? Also moving forward any advice when heating this thing up with a torch? More importantly what NOT to do? I’m thinking do the casing and smack the stud downward. Or should I go for the lower unit and use a vice grip?
The winter has been mild here in the NE. It’s looking like I need to be ready to run by April. Maybe mid March on a couple warm days.
US Member - 2 Years
Topics: 14February 20, 2020 at 1:01 pm #195464
If you reuse the stud It will be fine. just clean and grease will not freeze again. at least for me.
US Member - 2 Years
Topics: 42February 20, 2020 at 3:15 pm #195478
Well, there will be no further problems if the stud is coated liberally with grease/gasket sealer prior to reassembly…Be sure to get inside that hole and clean out the salt from there as well….South shore of Long Island, my old territory…Wonder where that engine came from, perhaps one of he bigger dealers bought out some stale inventory from OMC. In any event, the engine must not have many hours to look that nice after being used in salt water….
Like I said, the best approach will be to add some sort of metal shim between the top of the stud and the gearcase housing, with a crow bar wedged in between. At this point, probably best to use some heat, even though the paint will get messed up a bit. Have an assistant pry down on the stud while you are applying heat to the exhaust housing where the stud passes through. Salt is pretty tough stuff, I don’t think there has been a solvent invented yet that can penetrate it. Shift the gearcase into reverse prior to heating, then it will just be pulled into forward gear while the gearcase is pulled down slightly to access the shift rod connector (you may have to spin the prop slightly to allow it to shift into forward while pulling downward).
Once the gearcase is off, you can straighten out the threads, or replace the stud….There is no way to sneak a bolt in there because of the shape of the exhaust housing.
Finally, I suppose there is the possibility that seized driveshaft splines are holding things together, but it doesn’t seem like you have gotten the gearcase to move down even the slightest bit…So, I’m thinking it is the stud…
Once the gearcase/water pump are off, be sure to run a tap through all the holes to clean out the salt. Be sure to use gasket sealer/grease on all the fasteners, especially the little water pump screws…Be sure to clean off the driveshaft upper splines and apply OMC moly lube liberally to the sides of the splines…Try to avoid getting moly lube on top of the driveshaft while may prevent proper seating due to a hydraulic lock caused by the grease.
Topics: 2February 20, 2020 at 5:21 pm #195500
Alright everyone. Got it out. Heat had to be applied as much as I didn’t want to. Mauled the stud a little. I’ll just replace it. Found nothing obviously wrong. Seals look good on the lower unit but the impeller is not moving so nicely. I think I made the right move here opening this up. There must be a clog near the indicator. I can free that up. Clean up the drive shaft re lube everything reassemble everything the way it should with new parts and gaskets and that should buy me a few seasons problem free. This is the second time members here helped me out and I really appreciate it. Last one diagnosing a shock absorber in a 62 evinrude. Thanks again guys and gals
Canada Member - 1 Year
Topics: 189February 20, 2020 at 8:50 pm #195509
time to join up 🙂
Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂
International Member - 2 Years
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