Home Forum Ask A Member 9.5hp Johnson/Evinrude characteristics

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  • #2608
    dan-in-tn
    Participant

      US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)

      Thought we may have run the full course of motor discussion on the 9.5hp motor in the "Old Boat motor and trailer issues". I have asked Mumbles to move the motor part of the of the discussion to a section of its own so non members might pick up on the issues around this motor if they came looking. Mumbles would also like to add comments on repairs or alteration of the mounts to alleviate failures. Hope this seems like a good idea. The further we discuss an idea sometimes, the further away from the original topic we get.

      Dan in TN

      #24455
      fleetwin
      Participant

        US Member - 2 Years

        OK, so where did this topic end up? I will try finding it using the search feature.

        #24474
        Mumbles
        Participant

          The ‘Old Boat, Motor, trailer’ post is in the public section for all to enjoy!

          viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3184

          About those 9.5 mounts, the lower 379155 or 380965 ones are available if you search for them. They are a bit pricey but not as pricey as the upper 380963 one if and when it can be found. The upper ones tend to separate but I may have found a fix for this. After a thorough cleaning and degreasing, I coated the two halves with crazy glue and lightly clamped them together overnight. That was at least two years ago and it is still holding! This may be a band aid fix but it’s a lot cheaper and quicker than trying to find a NOS mount!

          On the old boards, one of the club members showed how he poured urethane for rubber trailer spring bushings. Maybe he could start making upper mounts!

          • This reply was modified 5 years, 5 months ago by Mumbles.
          • This reply was modified 1 year, 2 months ago by Mumbles.
          #24497
          johnyrude200
          Participant

            On a side note, I am reseaching an economical way of reproducing the following mass-scale…opinions?…:

            1) 18-20-25 repro starter motor brackets
            2) OMC Float tool #324891, pretty useful in general…not all carbs are set by inverting and leveling the float, and 1MM makes a HUGE difference
            3) OMC flywheel puller tool. Acquired an original and want to make a repro that is true to it based on modern day available materials.

            #24526
            fleetwin
            Participant

              US Member - 2 Years

              Here is a good lesson I was taught the easy way during my first actual boat yard job, by a senior technician.
              Bad mounts can cause the engine to pop out of gear, the powerhead slips back in the cowl pulling the shift linkage back into neutral.
              This symptom is easily misdiagnosed when the customer brings the engine in complaining of "jumping out of gear".
              Technician puts engine in tank, puts it in gear, advances the throttle, the engine promptly "jumps" out of gear. The technician goes on to rip the gearcase apart only to find no real wear/problems with the clutch dog/gear lugs, he is stumped/confused.
              The clue here is the actual symptom which the technician experienced but didn’t pay enough attention to. Normal clutch dog problems cause the engine to buck/jump while the gear/dog lugs bump over one another, but the engine stays in gear. This mount issue will cause the engine to jump out of gear, rev up, and just stay in neutral.
              I never worked on many 9.5s, only split apart the cowls on one of them, but always remembered Tony’s lesson!

              #24532
              Mumbles
              Participant

                That’s a good point Fleetwin.

                I learn something new every day and so far that tops the list!

                #59975
                joesnuffy
                Participant

                  Fleetwin,
                  I am glad I found this thread.

                  My personal 9.5 is jumping out of gear when wot is given to her for a few seconds then she goes into neutral. I had the lower unit apart and inspected everything when I re-sealed her and inspected everything. I have totally rebuilt this motor with all new rings, bearings, etc. I do wonder if the front motor mount might be bad????

                  I pulled the lower unit today but didn’t pull her apart yet and I’m glad I didn’t after seeing this thread.

                  I took a lockwrench and clamped it on the shift rod and it shifted with great pressure to go into fwd,neutral,reverse. It had a great deal of pressure when it clicks into and out of gears.

                  I think what I may do is put the lower unit back on her and their is an adjustment bolt under the cowl which I checked while on the lake to make sure it was adjusted correctly the engine goes into rev, neut, fwd as it should.

                  I will try putting motor in fwd then loosen that bolt which would keep the motor from kicking out of gear if the motor shifts toward the rear of engine compartment. If it does not pop out of gear then its motor mounts.

                  Thanks,
                  Joe

                  #60045
                  enrico-italy
                  Participant

                    if the 9,5 is a "first series" motor (1964-1965), check the suspension springs and rubber dumpers for integrity.

                    My 1964 Sportwin jumped out from gear at WOT because the inner motor group rotate in the external shell and "lift" the shift linkage.

                    #60046
                    fleetwin
                    Participant

                      US Member - 2 Years

                      Yes, that is exactly what happens! The powerhead sinks back toward the prop shaft when power is applied and there is a mount problem. When the powerhead sinks back, it pulls the shift lever linkage back (which is secured in the forward pan) and pops the shift rod/lever into neutral. Oftentimes, you can simulate this situation by just pushing the powerhead rearward and you will see the shift lever/linkage being yanked when the mounts are bad….

                      #60047
                      joesnuffy
                      Participant

                        I worked on a 1964-65 it was my buddy’s Grandfathers. It had the metal springs setup for suspension on front of motor way better than my 1967. It has the rubber suspension on front of motor. I tried yesterday to move the motor from front to back with my on strength in the external shells. I got some movement not a lot. Today I will try to move it side-to-side didn’t think of that. I think in the end I will put lower unit on it and watch with the hood off to see what kind of movement I’m getting with it running.

                        When I purchased this motor the power head was locked up and the gear case was disassembled parts in a bucket. I went through the entire engine and put the gear case back together had to order some parts since they looked to have had salt water in them for a prolonged period.

                        I don’t think its the gears its popping all the way into neutral and stays there normally. Not a clicking thing or grinding thing.

                        One thing that is weird is when I first put it in gear after having gear case apart first few times it didn’t pop out of gear. Then it started to. I put it back into gear with a good snap and it would work like 50% of time no popping out of gear. If I kept my hand on the gear lever and kept a bit of pressure on it then it wouldn’t pop out of gear. Guess I need to do some more digging.

                        Any help is appreciated.

                        Joe

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