Topic: 9.5hp Johnson/Evinrude characteristics – Page 2

This topic has 24 replies, 10 voices, and was last updated 6 years, 10 months ago by fleetwin.

Viewing 10 posts - 11 through 20 (of 25 total)

← 1 2 3 →

Author

Posts
June 21, 2017 at 11:24 am #60049
fleetwin
Participant
US Member - 2 Years
Joe
Sorry, I can’t remember just how all that shift linkage goes together on the 9.5, but have another fairly simple idea to isolate/verify this condition. Can this pan shift linkage be disconnected from the shift rod inside the upper motor pan? If so, I would shift the engine into forward gear, then disconnect/isolate the shift rod from the pan linkage. Now retest on the boat….If the engine stays in gear, we need to look more at the mounts/motor pan linkage…
June 21, 2017 at 12:17 pm #60056
joesnuffy
Participant
Thanks that is what I will do. I will check to see if that is possible to figure out a way from the top side of motor to disconnect shift linkage. If not I will leave it in fwd gear and put the lower unit back on then fire it up on the lake and see if it pops out of gear.

With the lower unit off I did grab the shift linkage at the bottom of rod where it connects to lower unit shift linkage and moved it up and down to try and see if it had slop up and down. It had a bit of slop don’t know if that could be my problem but I will investigate a better idea of how much slop today.

Thanks,
Joe
June 21, 2017 at 1:39 pm #60067
melugin
Participant
US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
Another reason I don’t want to work on the 9.5. To replace the fuel line to the fuel pump, it is a close fit at the fuel connector. The tiller handle has to come off to remove the gas tank connector. Fuel line CAN be attached and fastened without removing the connector, but it is a very trying experience. I will only work on one friend’s motor of this type and I hope I won’t have to do that job again.
Am I wrong, is there an easier way to do this?
June 21, 2017 at 5:10 pm #60083
crosbyman
Participant
Canada Member - 2 Years
strange I just did my fuel line on a 9.5 late 60s after tilting it up to see & access the fuel connector

I removed the spring clip (slid it back)
cut the old hose
pushed on the new one with a touch of grease to slide it on trough the spring clip and…. repositionned the spring clip

all this by not removing the tiller handle

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂
June 22, 2017 at 2:18 am #60108
wedgie
Participant
I recently replaced the fuel line on a ’67 9.5…. It was a @#%*!.
I have a couple more that could use new lines too, so I will try Crosbyman’s approach next time. Also, I think it was FrankR that posted his method ( that I should have committed to memory) somewhere here, but I cant find it now.
June 23, 2017 at 1:02 pm #60177
joesnuffy
Participant
I was going thru all my spare parts for the 9.5hp and came across part# 25 in diagram. I can’t for the life of me remember if I put a new one in my gear case when I rebuilt it. If it were missing could that possibly cause engine to pop out of forward? I ordered 1 just in case.

Thanks,
Joe

Attachments:
June 23, 2017 at 1:59 pm #60181
outbdnut2
Participant
US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
Yup! If I’m remembering right, that adds a bit more tension to the shift detent by stiffening up the detent spring it supports.
Dave
June 23, 2017 at 2:09 pm #60182
joesnuffy
Participant
I guess I will be taking it back apart to see if I put one in there. Then I’ll know.

Joe
June 23, 2017 at 3:08 pm #60185
fleetwin
Participant
US Member - 2 Years
Yes, that it the clutch dog detent….You will know if it is there buy pulling/pushing up and down on the shift rod (once gearcase is removed). There should be substantial resistance to movement, and the detent positioning should be easy to feel. The detent spring is messed up/missing if the shift rod goes up/down easily.
Sure don’t want you to take this thing apart needlessy, so try disconnecting the shift rod up in the pan first if it isn’t a big hassle. Pull the gearcase if the engine still jumps out of gear with the shift rod disconnected….
Hope it is something minor…
June 23, 2017 at 5:32 pm #60190
outbdnut2
Participant
US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
quote joesnuffy:

Thanks that is what I will do. I will check to see if that is possible to figure out a way from the top side of motor to disconnect shift linkage.

If you pull down the lower unit housing, (top half of #14 in the diagram above) you should be able to get at part #52 to disconnect the shift rod – take the lower bolt in this rod connector all the way out. The shift lever has to be in forward to lower the shift rod far enough to disconnect it. The stuff above part 52 in the next housing that youcan’t see gets complex with a rubber bellows (boot) over the upper shift rod between the two housings to keep exhaust from getting up into the engine. This boot is a common part to break causing poor idle. It’s been a number of years,but I’ve had the lower unit off my 1969 twice and I don’t recall any problems separating the two shift rods after pulling down the lower unit. If it’s not dropping down far enough, maybe the driveshaft is stuck. There is anadjustment clamping screw at the rear of theshift lever – if youloosenthat, you may be able to get it to drop another 1/4inch or so,but you shouldn’t have to.

The link below gets you to the view of upper shift rod #81 and the bellows or boot, #78 in the diagram that comes up:
There is no way to disconnect the shift rod from the top because part #78 is clamped to it and will retain it in the housing above and you don’t get to part #78 without removing the entire powerhead and that is a big time thing on this motor.
Dave

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1969&hp=9.5&model=9R69S&manufacturer=Johnson&section=Lower+Unit+Group
Author

Posts