A-35 Flywheel Removal

[T….in Wisconsin]

Flywheel continues to hold it’s grip to the crankshaft.

I’ve applied 5 – 6 heat/ cool cycles before striking with the knockout tool, still won’t budge.  When heating I’ve kept the temp  in the flywheel hub area at less that 150 F.

I’ll continue with the heat/cool cycles and squirting  WD while still warm.

Other than time & patience I’ve run out of  ideas.

Thought’s, advice encouraging words welcome!

 

 

 

 

[The Boat House]

Don’t be afraid to really shack it. As long as the tool remains tight
you wont damage the crankshaft. (see end of my video) Its important
to be sure the bolt remains tight so check it after each blow.
You want to try to get the heat in the flywheel so it expands and
then strike the tool before the heat works its way into the crankshaft.
Options are limited other that to step it up a little.
https://youtu.be/RWgE9XiIBnk?si=E_fZDo0SDhzAGMTM
However here is one-
https://youtu.be/FK5dAQaM-1U?si=4ElLWhn39Z5ecL4e
Tubs.

[joecb]

Tubs, thanks for posting those videos, especially the “air hammer” one. I’ll keep that in mind for future reference.

Joe B

[seakaye12]

A few months back I had a 20HP Mercury with a stuck flywheel.  Really stuck.  I tried everything.  I saw Steve’s video using the air hammer and I couldn’t wait to try it.

Unfortunately….it did not work for me.  I was expecting it to be the solution….but it was not.  At least not on that motor.

Eventually I had success after a waiting period doing a PB Blaster soak and a better puller. 

[Charles Myers]

This discussion about an A-35 motor is helpful even though my need is to remove a flywheel on a 1956 Evinrude Lark 30 hp. My reason for removing the flywheel is just to get to the coils underneath in order to remove them and test them.  They do deliver spark to each of the 2 spark plugs, but I’m not getting as much speed from the motor as in the past.  Testing the coils is just one of my tasks in researching a cause.  I have tried a puller that uses the three inner bolt holes near the shaft (not a puller that pulls up on the outside edges of the flywheel).  I have also tried striking the puller’s center bolt despite the fact that in the Factory Service Work Shop manual, page 1125 (out of 3088), in Section 5-14 about the ignition , the manual says the following about flywheel removal with a puller.  It says, “DO NOT strike the puller center bolt with a hammer in an attempt to dislodge the flywheel. Such action could seriously damage the lower seal and/or lower bearing.”  I have been reluctant to try heat, mindful of the coils below, but it is looking as if I may have to try that.  If anyone has any other ideas, let me know.  Many thanks.

[joecb]

Charles, when you get to the point that you are out of options you may have to try the “strike” . Just be very sure that you have lifted the flywheel up so as to ensure that the energy of the hammer blow does not transmit down the crank to the lower seal. It’s best to have a friend hold the motor up by the flywheel. Now, not saying that he has to lift the whole motor off the ground, just lift enough to ensure that the weight of the FW and crankshaft are not resting down on the lower seal.

Joe B

[Buccaneer]

This is the only flywheel I remember that would not eventually come off with normal means.
It was on a 40 hp Gale. I broke the OMC puller bolts, etc., from having the puller so tight.
Used a torch, whacked with a hammer, PB Blaster, etc.
I finally ended up destroying the flywheel to get it off.
Turns out that the flywheel key was terribly buggered up but the last guy
used it anyway.

Prepare to be boarded!

[stanley]

While drastic solutions are being considered,I’ll point out that an A35 replacement flywheel would not be hard to find.If all else fails,use the three jaw puller just be sure you don’t “mushroom the end of the crank shaft.<!–more–>

[The Boat House]

If you were to strike the center bolt of a puller “without” lifting the
the flywheel its very possible you could damage the bearing. I
have trouble seeing how would effect the seal. Getting back to
Tim’s A-35, the way he has it suspended, he can strike the tool
as hard as he need to without damaging anything, as long as the
tool remained tight against the crankshaft. If he will increasing
the intensity of his blows till he cant hit it any harder, and it doesn’t
separate, as long as he keeps checking the tool to see that it is tight,
he will only end up right where he started. He wont have damaged
anything. He should use the method above to its full potential before
considering sacrificing the flywheel to get it off IMO.
Tubs.

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T....in Wisconsin

[T….in Wisconsin]

Thanks for clearing a few things up.

I was hesitant to strike the knockout tool with great enough force that might damage the crankshaft, I try a but more force tomorrow.  I tried using the air hammer method as show in the video, it did not work for his application.

Regarding heating the hub, tomorrow I’ll try applying the heat further out away from the crankshaft in an effort to minimize expansion of the crankshaft

What is a safe temperature zone to apply heat, I’ve been staying under 150 F. Could I go to 170 F ?

If I increase heat, would the potential transfer of heat from crankshaft to the points, condenser and coil be minimized as long as the points are closed? (point paddle is not in contact with the hub cam.)

Thanks Tubbs, Joe and to all those who have offered their thoughts and advice, it’s much appreciated.

Fun Stuff!!

 

[Author]

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