Back Again With A 1959 Gale Buccaneer 35HP

[harpua]

Thanks for the link to buy a manual, but i find most of what i need here and was just looking to get an old bird back on the water, if it doesnt happen she will be recycled as the person is junking about 10 various old motors. I wish i had more time and money for it but i dont, so its either get free info and fix it or dont touch it. Lol

Thanks again for all your help so far, maybe i get lucky with her.

[joesnuffy]

Try a public library. That’s what I do when I don’t want to buy a manual.

Joe

[harpua]

quote joesnuffy:

Try a public library. That’s what I do when I don’t want to buy a manual.

Joe

You are so right. I will check today and bring the kids Great idea!

[harpua]

quote Garry in Tampa:

Interesting – the electric start model doesn’t show a tiller.
1959 35 HP E start

1959 35 HP standard

i found this online. should be very useful. thanks

https://richardlpaquette.ca/GaleProduct … Manual.pdf

[harpua]

this baby has spark and compression, the carburetor and its gaskets look clean and new and with each pull its starting to free up a bit. i am tempted to hit underneath the flywheel with some white grease or poke some marine grade grease in there with something and keep pulling. i think this thing is gonna start… ❓ ❓ ❓

[outbdnut2]

I wouldn’t add grease under the flywheel – there is no bearing you can get to there without removing a seal on the crank, you will just end up getting grease slung on the points. These motors do pull over hard, even with the compression release it can be a two hand pull. Get it started and let the oil in the gas lubricate all the bearings/rings/etc. as it passes through the crankcase the way a 2-stroke is supposed to lubricate. Continuing to turn the engine over without running it can cause any oil on the rings to work off of them causing a compression drop in a way you don’t want. Your water pump impeller can also be dragging, and turning it over dry may free it up some but may damage it in doing so. Since it hasn’t been run n a lot of yeas, it probably will need a new impeller anyway. If you already replaced it, hopefully you put a bit of grease/oil/or KY jelly in it to take care of turning it until it gets into water. Put that motor in a garbage can of water and get it started!
Dave

[harpua]

quote outbdnut2:

I wouldn’t add grease under the flywheel – there is no bearing you can get to there without removing a seal on the crank, you will just end up getting grease slung on the points. These motors do pull over hard, even with the compression release it can be a two hand pull. Get it started and let the oil in the gas lubricate all the bearings/rings/etc. as it passes through the crankcase the way a 2-stroke is supposed to lubricate. Continuing to turn the engine over without running it can cause any oil on the rings to work off of them causing a compression drop in a way you don’t want. Your water pump impeller can also be dragging, and turning it over dry may free it up some but may damage it in doing so. Since it hasn’t been run n a lot of yeas, it probably will need a new impeller anyway. If you already replaced it, hopefully you put a bit of grease/oil/or KY jelly in it to take care of turning it until it gets into water. Put that motor in a garbage can of water and get it started!
Dave

thank you. i didnt end up greasing anything. i used bigger cables to jump the starter and i can get it to spin awesome now, but it wont crank over or even snap. i am going to clean out the carb as best i can without totally dismantling it for now. wondering about this mercury switch and how i can tell its in start mode. would really like to get a good idea of how to adjust the lean/rich on these because from the 2 or 3 i played with it seems to be a really big deal.

any other pointers on how to get a response from this

i have a good set of ear muffs on her for now until i get a crack or a bang out of her, then i will dunk her in some water. still a little weary still as she has been sitting for a while and i know i will be taking the lower end off this thing if the powerhead is good anyway.

this ting hasnt run in maybe 20+ years but you can tell whoever had it, winterized it, took care and stuck it in the garage. hoping the magneto/stators or whatever underneath stood the test of time!!

[dougs-outboards]

Maybe I missed it but did you spray some lube into the cyls?

IMHO, just trusting the carb is clean because it looks clean and will work is not good practice. Needs to be taken apart and cleaned properly, put back together again and needles adjusted properly (I do 1 -1/2 turns out on Low, 1/2-3/4 turn out on high speed, finally settling on about 1/3 turn out for final run setting) You will see what yours does, but good rule of thumb initial setting. Then if it runs and you want to invest in a carb kit you can make that decision then. If it runs fine, maybe no kit.

[garry-in-michigan]

You say you have spark, but those coils are notorious for the plastic cover drying out, shrinking & cracking after 40 or 50 years. That magneto is one of the best, and was used on a great many models from 1951 into the 1990s. Because of its popularity it also is the most reasonably priced. That said, jumping a spark plug air gap while the plug is laying on the block is much easier than when the plug is installed and the compressed air fuel mix may by 8 times as dense. Electricity is lazy and will always find the easiest way to ground. A cracked coil will always give it an opportunity to do so. I will also say that a loose flywheel is a killer. Everyone knows this so Evinrude is very careful to be sure they are put on very tight. The matching tapers are forced together in your case at 60 to 65 foot pounds of torque on the flywheel nut. Time and differences in day and night temperatures make these never minutely perfect surfaces better conformed to one another. After 50 years they are as one. This is why schedule eight is specified for the puller bolts. These tempered alloy bolts are the strongest of todays standards. Each must be screwed in the same amount so the pull will be straight up and evenly distributed. If in too far, they will dig into the top of the coil. The coils are well made, but not bullet proof. Good Luck with your endeavor, Everyone in the Club is happy to see another abandoned outboard brought back to life. . . 😀

[harpua]

quote Garry in Tampa:

You say you have spark, but those coils are notorious for the plastic cover drying out, shrinking & cracking after 40 or 50 years. That magneto is one of the best, and was used on a great many models from 1951 into the 1990s. Because of its popularity it also is the most reasonably priced. That said, jumping a spark plug air gap while the plug is laying on the block is much easier than when the plug is installed and the compressed air fuel mix may by 8 times as dense. Electricity is lazy and will always find the easiest way to ground. A cracked coil will always give it an opportunity to do so. I will also say that a loose flywheel is a killer. Everyone knows this so Evinrude is very careful to be sure they are put on very tight. The matching tapers are forced together in your case at 60 to 65 foot pounds of torque on the flywheel nut. Time and differences in day and night temperatures make these never minutely perfect surfaces better conformed to one another. After 50 years they are as one. This is why schedule eight is specified for the puller bolts. These tempered alloy bolts are the strongest of todays standards. Each must be screwed in the same amount so the pull will be straight up and evenly distributed. If in too far, they will dig into the top of the coil. The coils are well made, but not bullet proof. Good Luck with your endeavor, Everyone in the Club is happy to see another abandoned outboard brought back to life. . . 😀

thanks again Garry. trying to understand- if i see nice blue spark when i hold it to the block on both plugs it doesnt necessarily mean that the coils are still good? they can still be dried up or cracked?

with a flywheel puller will i be able to get the flywheel on and off correctly with the proper torque wrench? what would be your next step? thanks

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