Home Forum Ask A Member Best 60-85 hp motors of the 70-‘s and 80’s?

Viewing 8 posts - 11 through 18 (of 18 total)
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  • #172774
    shoestringmariner
    Participant

      Thanks guys, and especially @Chris-P…I really appreciate that offer.

      All and all though, I think I’ll pass on this one. I’m pushing my luck and it’s a bit far out. I think I’ll keep pinching the scraps of my play money and save up for something healthy and turn key. I’ve got enough projects and the old 650 merc was actually running great when i put it away in the fall, so there’s time to be patient.

      I am intrigued by the stinger though. Looking into that.

      #172899
      rudefan29070
      Participant

        I will mirror what others have said. I’ve been spinning wrenches on Outboards for a long time. And my all time favorite Motor is the 3 cylinder OMC. They are flat AWESOME motors. There is also the Evinrude 55hp Commercial motor, dang if they aren’t TOUGH as nails. A good clean inline 3 OMC shouldn’t be too hard to get for a decent price.

        #172957
        shoestringmariner
        Participant

          It always seemed to me that the three cylinder OMC was one of their best mid-range motors. I always thought that the V-4’s shook like a wet dog by comparison. I have a soft spot for the inline 4 cylinder Mercury’s but you can have issues with them with out of round cylinders if they have been trolled a lot. They had the same water pump as the inline 6 and folks would troll with them. They ran too cold and would wear they cylinders out of round. Look for rough idle or stalling as a symptom of out of round. Other wise, I love mine. By the time they are this old, there are going to be issues. Wires loosing their insulation are often an issue. How was it stored, was it taken care of. A lot of mid range motors are in deplorable condition as they often sat outside under the shade tree for the last 20 years. A 20hp or 9.5 often made it to the garage or basement where life was better.

          Steve

          Sorry Steve, I forgot to get back to you. I think it was actually looked after quite well. I’m pretty sure it is the original motor on the boat which is a 1975 or 76. The boat has the original carpet in it and the floors are toast so they’ve never been redone .
          Aside from the cracked wiring, In the lower end which had no reverse gear. It starts and runs really well. Except for trolling. Does not like trolling in warm temperatures for extended periods of time. In the fall and ran absolutely perfect all day long. I feel it is reliable however knowing that the wiring is questionable and the trigger could go at any time I’m not comfortable taking it out on big water. Small inland lakes, no problem.

          And maybe here’s where people tell me I am crazy for considering big water and ANY old motor. ( when I say big water I’m referring to the Great Lakes )

          #174301
          shoestringmariner
          Participant

            Saturday morning I’m off to look at and possibly pick up a 1982, 70 hp Johnson with power trim. Seller says it’s been sitting for eight or nine years… i’m sure that’s going to require a bit of work. Because I don’t know what I’m doing with it, I’m not going to try and do a compression test. Price seems reasonable so I’m going to take a gamble.

            Anything specific on these that I should watch for?

            #174321
            fleetwin
            Participant

              US Member - 2 Years

              Well, I would certainly “try to do a compression test”…Pretty simple to just hot wire the starter with jumper cables….
              First, look at the engine ID core plug, this number should match the serial number on the transom bracket. A six digit number and/or the letters “RPH” means the powerhead has been replaced with a new one at some point. Not a bad thing. Look for signs over overheating, the white color on the head and exhaust cover will look pinkish or burned if overheated. Look for melted wiring harness’ wear it contacts the block. Look at all the gaskets, and the flange where the two halves of the crankcase mates together. All new gaskets, sloppy/incorrect gasket sealants, ooze/sealer coming from where the crankcase halves mate up could spell trouble. I am always wary of “rebuilt powerheads”. These engines are not hard to tear down and reassemble, but few ever get the fine details right. Piston skirt to cylinder fit has to be right on these engines or they will be hard to start and won’t idle, no matter what a compression gage says.
              Look at the gearcase, is the skeg bent/busted? If so, there may be internal gearcase damage also, especially if a stainless prop was used. Spin the prop while watching the end of the prop shaft in an effort to see if the prop shaft is bent. Ask the owner if you can just “crack the lower lube screw open” for a second. The lube should be relatively clean, maybe a little black crud laying in the bottom. Milky gear lube, or raw water spells trouble.
              I’m assuming this is a fresh water engine, so corrosion shouldn’t be an issue. You can “hot wire” the trim unit to see if it works, simply jump the battery to the blue and green terminals, then swap them around to change pump direction (up and down). Look for fluid leaks. This engine needs two electrical harness’, one for the control box, the other has a junction box with relays for the trim unit.
              Like you say, this is a gamble, cuz you can’t run it on a boat prior to purchase. Ask the owner why the engine has been sitting around. Perhaps the boat just hasn’t been used, or maybe the engine was replaced cuz it wasn’t working correctly. Do whatever you can to minimize the risk, what is the asking price for the engine?

              #174327
              shoestringmariner
              Participant

                Wow, thanks for the great advice. I’ll definitely try the Hotwire compression test.
                There’s a few things I don’t know if I like. Seller seems nice but I can’t sure if I’m getting “pitched”.

                Seller claims he bought it from a senior but after the current seller brought it home, he couldn’t get it to run on the lake because the controls were “funky” and there was supposed to be a ”Trick” to using it. So he took it home and never used it. Got married, Had kids, sold the boat but kept the motor. Stored it in a heated garage for 8-9 years.

                Price is $500CDN as is. He can’t help lift and I can’t do myself so he’s offered to pay for engine hoist rental.
                I don’t know if this guy is just really nice or really needs it gone. He sounds very straight up and genuine.

                So; in the pics; head bolts have been re/re’d. Paint missing on them. No browning or yellowing on powerhead aside from slight aged tint. Crankcase gaskets visible. No goo, but no paint either (?)
                Prop and skeg good. Prop not “new” but still has factory looking paint on it. Spilled house paint on lower unit from dropped can. Seller assured not covering repairs.
                Tilt Mech intact.
                Controls appear to have smaller wire and larger wire. Latter has large red plug.

                Anything else that I can look for in pics?

                #174328
                shoestringmariner
                Participant

                  And wait a sec….behind the starter I can see a housing seam. Possibly the crankcase. Slight blush of red wipe smudge in same direction as casing seam. Paint knocked off bolt heads.

                  I’m concerned

                  #174344
                  shoestringmariner
                  Participant

                    And on advice from a member, I’m taking a pass on this one also. I’ll just keep watching for the next one

                    Thanks for your help everybody. I’ve learned some good stuff here

                  Viewing 8 posts - 11 through 18 (of 18 total)
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