Best Way to Unseize an Engine

[aquasonic]

Back on the old forum, there was a similar thread. I recall that Lloyd had recommended soaking the pistons in your choice of penetrating oil. If you are ‘lucky’ the pistons will be stuck evenly so the ports are covered, and the penetrant does not drain away.

I recall Lloyd recommended getting a piece of solid aluminum rod and lightly tapping the tops of the pistons frequently. The idea was that the solid aluminum rod transmitted vibrations much better than a wooden dowel. The key was that these vibrations over time will help to free the pistons. It may take a few days or a few months if memory serves.

This is just another option for low tech guys like me.

[jerry]

Here’s a suggestion that sometimes works (only if both ports are closed) Pour in 50% tranny fluid and 50% Acetone…(best penetrating fluid ever!)
Then make a fitting with an air-hose connector. Apply air from your compressor and let it sit. The air will force the fluid around the stuck rings.

[crosbyman]

very interesting…..

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

[aquasonic]

quote Jerry:

Here’s a suggestion that sometimes works (only if both ports are closed) Pour in 50% tranny fluid and 50% Acetone…(best penetrating fluid ever!)
Then make a fitting with an air-hose connector. Apply air from your compressor and let it sit. The air will force the fluid around the stuck rings.

I recall reading a comparison of penetrating oils and the 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone ranked as the best. I like the idea of using the compressor to pressurize the cylinders. Jerry, can you provide more detail on making up a fitting for this? Do you retrofit a sparkplug?

I have heard about using a grease gun for a similar application, but also heard about the pressure getting so high that it breaks something.

[The Boat House]

Made a fitting for the grease gun then an adapter fitting for air.
Air is OK for pushing the lubricant through the cylinder but if
it’s really stuck air is not much help.
Grease is better but stuff the cylinder full of oily paper towels
first. You will use a lot less grease and have less of a mess to clean
up.

[jeff-register]

I Agree, Full breakdown & rebuild or find a running block or all parts required.

[kees]

If you have a Rowboat motor project and the cylinder is a "one of a kind" and very hard to find ( to replace )
I never, never, never would use a grease gun.
do you know how high you can blow up the pressure ? 😯
you will not be the first with a broken cylinder.
heat it up, cool it down, heat it up, cool it down, a.s.o. with penetration oil and a lot of patience.
if you have an aluminium piston which has a lot of powder corrosion, it is probably stuck for ever 🙁
BUT YOU CAN ALWAYS TRY

[bobprock4200]

I’ve said this before, but I’ve become a BIG fan of Seafoam’s Deep Creep. Much better than PB Blaster or even the old ATF/acetone trick. Not a paid endorsement, your mileage may vary, etc… but let the Seafoam soak, use a strap wrench and work it back and forth. I also have successfully used the sparkplug/zirk fitting /grease gun trick and discovered if you fill the cylinder with penetrating solvent first you’ll use ALOT less grease and hydraulic pressure forces the penetrating solvent into where it needs to get. Anyway, patience, persistence and a heapin’ helpin’ of luck!

[brook-n]

Ahh the infamous grease method……
The grease method in my opinion is one of the most risky approaches one can take.
I receive several calls a year from fellow members that have had the grease method
Suggested to them for freeing a stuck powerhead and ended up cracking the bore into
The water jacket leaving the block or cylinder useless. Two much hydraulic pressure.
( learned this first hand in my early days of playing with outboards. ) about twenty years ago
I made a adapter like the one Tubs shows for air pressure, I use a regulator with mine so I can control the pressure. With air pressure, my favorite petroleum based lubricant,heating & cooling starts the wicking process around the stuck pistons & rings.

Everyone’s got a system that works for them
Best of luck with your motor, which every approach you decide to go with.

Respectfully
Brook N.

[reivertom]

There is a product called "Kroil" that I use on rusty gun parts and barrels. It is the best I’ve found over the counter. I order it directly from the company or from gunsmithing websites. I bought some in a small can similar to the old "3 in one" cans, and it wouldn’t stop seeping out of the rim of the can over time. I had to keep it in a plastic bags so it wouldn’t leak on my bench. I finally got wise and bought the large spray cans. If it won’t seep around stuck rings, nothing will.

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